Jonny Deformed Posted March 27, 2007 Any idea what this is? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kenny Blister Posted March 27, 2007 I'd say nutrient deficiency. Expand on your feeding regime. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jonny Deformed Posted March 27, 2007 Spidermite, Shite. What needs to be done? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jonny Deformed Posted March 27, 2007 (edited) actually i don't think it is. The spots are not easily dislodged from the leaf surface and there are no signs of webbing. Edited March 27, 2007 by JD. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hellonasty Posted March 27, 2007 JD, It is hard to tell as it's early days. I don't think it's spider mite they will leave big holes in the leaves !! Yeah like you said you can see the webs and usually the little orange spidermites My guess is the start of a scale attack. or early blight. Look closely at the stems for little white/black things. And treat as per scale is my suggestion. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kenny Blister Posted March 27, 2007 I don't think that's spidermite. You have interveinal chlorosis developing on the oldest leaf in the last photo and it's starting to develop on the younger ones. I have a HBWR in a pot with really poor soil that is often forgot about and it shows up with all sorts of nutrient deficiency symptoms, including your spots. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AndyAmine. Posted March 27, 2007 interesting. Jst for informations sake, spidermite dont actually eat holes in your foliage, they jst suck out the juices and chlorophyll leaving behind the white spots. The webbing usualy only shows up after the infestation is very heavy and you can see the buggers all over the shop. Damage like in your pics can be caused by quite a small number of spidermite and they are particularly fond of HBWR, try having a look on the underside of the effected leaves, you may jst see a few red dots from a rusty red color to ruby red, you can make them move when you put a ciggerette near one ;) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Monk Posted March 27, 2007 FeloniousMonk's Kick Ass Plant Tonic: cures what ales ya. 1 tsp/gal. castille soap 1 tsp/gal. humic or fulvic acid 1 tsp/gal. kelp or seaweed extract 1-3 tsp/gal. neem oil The soap spreads it, the kelp cures deficiency(esp micronute-likely with veinal yellowing,) the humic makes it absorb better, the neem kills/sterilizes critters, including mites. Apply once a week for three weeks in the cool/shade of the afternoon. Rinse leaves with plain water mid week in between applications. Oh, yeah, its best to use distilled water. Not only will the problem go away, they'll grow like crazy. Created this for some special flowering annuals I used to know Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jonny Deformed Posted March 27, 2007 FeloniousMonk's Kick Ass Plant Tonic: cures what ales ya.1 tsp/gal. castille soap 1 tsp/gal. humic or fulvic acid 1 tsp/gal. kelp or seaweed extract 1-3 tsp/gal. neem oil The soap spreads it, the kelp cures deficiency(esp micronute-likely with veinal yellowing,) the humic makes it absorb better, the neem kills/sterilizes critters, including mites. Apply once a week for three weeks in the cool/shade of the afternoon. Rinse leaves with plain water mid week in between applications. Oh, yeah, its best to use distilled water. Not only will the problem go away, they'll grow like crazy. Created this for some special flowering annuals I used to know Cheers for that FeloniousMonk. Ill be sure to give it ago. Is there anywhere you can suggest that stocks all the items in this concoction? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Monk Posted March 27, 2007 The last three can be procured from specialty gardening stores i.e. hydro shops and nurseries that specialize in organics. The castille soap is from organic grocery stores. It can be replaced with one drop per gal. of Palmolive or other dish soap with no antibiotics or other additives, but castille soap is more natural. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Auxin Posted March 27, 2007 Interesting. I never bought "humic acid", I make my own crystalline ammonium humate, does 1 tsp/gal bring it to the standard 0.008-0.012% range or is it higher? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Monk Posted March 27, 2007 Not sure about the concentration, Auxin, b/c I just use bottled stuff at half the recomended foliar dose (my rule of thumb for most ferts.) I found a site called Australian Soil Additives and Products(ASAP) that carries a brand called BioActive. Here in the states, I use Botanicare humic/fulvic. How do you make Ammonium Humate? Precipitation from compost or leonardite with NH4OH? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kenny Blister Posted March 27, 2007 JD, I'm still curious as to what/when you're feeding the plant. A couple of dilute doses of charlie carp over the next fortnight will transform those buds into leaves in no time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jonny Deformed Posted March 28, 2007 JD, I'm still curious as to what/when you're feeding the plant. A couple of dilute doses of charlie carp over the next fortnight will transform those buds into leaves in no time. All my plants get splash of charlie carp in a 5 litre watering can every couple of weeks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kenny Blister Posted March 28, 2007 If it's receiving full sun then a little more wouldn't hurt it. Or go for Felonious Monk's spray (killing two birds with one stone then), but remember that if you limit yourself to fertilising only with foliar spray then plants in standard potting mixes can develop sulphur deficiency (depending on the nature of the sulphate in solution). Good Luck Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
