ENtiTY Posted April 3, 2007 Thats what I would do, sterilised water if you have it. Wait for verification from some more experienced members though. Also harvest will be a continual process if you want to do prints not all at once. The more pins that show together the more you'll be able to harvest at one time... roughly. Not an exact science after all. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coschi Posted April 3, 2007 Will do, cheers Could that be a reason for it taking so long to pin? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ENtiTY Posted April 3, 2007 Moisture levels definatly play a part, so does temp. I have 2 cakes birthed 1 week apart, first cake pinned in a week. After the second cakes was birthed the temp dropped a fair bit. Second cake has been birthed going 3 weeks now and no sign of pins Keep it at the optimal temp of 20-25 deg C and pins should pop up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coschi Posted April 3, 2007 If you check page two of this thread you'll see where the tub with casing is sitting, it's right by a sunny side window, gets plenty of sun and moisture is everywhere in the tub (humidity effect is most certainly working) I hate to ask the question.. but is there any chance this is too dry? / too far gone? Or why the little guys be alright? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hyphal Posted April 3, 2007 The little guys will be fine, just spray a few sprays in your tub - the casing layer is a tad dry, thats all - you may have got a few more pins if it was a little wetter, but they will still probably come. Dont stress, all is perfect looking - just a tad dry. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hyphal Posted April 3, 2007 Moisture levels definatly play a part, so does temp. I have 2 cakes birthed 1 week apart, first cake pinned in a week. After the second cakes was birthed the temp dropped a fair bit. Second cake has been birthed going 3 weeks now and no sign of pins Keep it at the optimal temp of 20-25 deg C and pins should pop up. Temp is definitely the biggest contributing factor to growth speed. Cubensis will grow well outside of the parameters, eg you can get fruits in 16C weather - and jars will colonise at 18C - but things will move very slowly. 20C is too cold Harry, they will grow but at that temp you will notice things will slow right down. 24-25C is optimal fruiting, 28-30C optimal colonisation temp. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ENtiTY Posted April 3, 2007 No it should be fine. If its pinning at all its not to bad. If you have a thermometer stick it in the FC and see what the temp is. Also if you have a hygrometer check the humidity level, I got one for $10 from the local hydro shop. After you have one and use it you will see that humidity is hard to judge. Couple of times I thought the humidity was way to low but it was at 100% other times the opposite. If you don't get verification by tonight just spray it and see how it goes, thats what I'd do. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hyphal Posted April 3, 2007 Im curious as to whether we are all posting at the same time and perhaps you missed my post before Harry. I second your notion - Spray above the casing layer and let the mist gently fall on to the casing layer. You can use normal tap water, no need to sterilise it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coschi Posted April 3, 2007 (edited) We're all posting at the same time The pin heads are pretty dark by the way, that's standard? Temp is probably varying quite a bit, sometimes when the tub is opened up for fanning heat radiates from it, other times hardly any heat is felt Edited April 3, 2007 by Sphinx Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ENtiTY Posted April 3, 2007 Yeah 25 C is better but harder to get to if ambient is 15 C. If you can get it into the 20's at least you'll get something. How cold is in Melbourne any way? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ace Posted April 3, 2007 The pin heads are pretty dark by the way, that's standard Yep - dark brown caps will lighten slightly as they mature. The stipes (stems) will be a lighter colour than the caps too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coschi Posted April 3, 2007 Good good, mel is fluctiating between high teens to low twenties at the momo Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ENtiTY Posted April 3, 2007 Yeah, sounds like the issue. Stick a thermometer in there and see what it is in the FC. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coschi Posted April 3, 2007 Hmm.. if that's the case today, and the person whose mushrooms these are is going away from Sunday to Tuesday, is there a chance he could get back and the mushrooms are too far mature / old for them to be good?? Wouldn't want this! Perhaps he could take them on his holiday and eat fresh ?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ENtiTY Posted April 3, 2007 You may have a couple ready by then. You'll prolly have some mature over the break though. Not sure how long they stay fresh, I always pick them as soon as they are ready to print. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coschi Posted April 3, 2007 They are ready to print when the caps open up? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ENtiTY Posted April 3, 2007 The shroom will grow, the cap will start to open, the veil will break away, the cap will continue to lift. Its after the veil has broken and the cap has extended a lil more. I usually pickem after I can see the finest coating of spores on the stem. There seems to be a bit of a spray of spores when the veil breaks, but their not quite ready yet. I've been told its ready to print when the cap starts to flaten but mine never seem to get that far. I think it all depend upon the variety. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
user1 Posted April 3, 2007 i'm having issues fruiting now that it's getting colder as well. i'm doing a bit of experimenting putting a lamp in a chamber underneath where the FC is. using an incandescent bulb really helps to heat up the FC, hard to control the temp though. you have to be careful, i did this while colonising and i killed 2 myc jars because i put them directly above where the lamp was. cooked them Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ENtiTY Posted April 3, 2007 User, try getting a aquarium heater, a large storage container and a smaller one that is the same size but not so deep. Heater and water in the large container, set the temp on the heater, slide top container in and incubate in there. Works a charm Cost about $40 to make including the heater from ebay. Gonna make another one for fruiting in, this should be interesting to see how well it works. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coschi Posted April 3, 2007 Second that Harry for sure exactly as used for the incubation stage in the www.fungifun.org PF tek Actually i'm sure this is what my foaf did for incubation ++++MORE PINS TODAY!!!++++ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ENtiTY Posted April 3, 2007 Nice I was reading in another thread that myc will grow through the casing if it is in search of moisture. So maybe give it a good spray especially in the areas where it has grown through. You could prolly get a syringe and shoot some water into the bottom case layer as well, bit hard to tell how moist it is down there but if it is growing through instead of pinning its more than likely a lil dry. Any other members got any tips on how to tell the moisture levels at the base of the case? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coschi Posted April 4, 2007 Well it looks alright, significantly more pins have popped up, another misting was given this morning so Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ENtiTY Posted April 4, 2007 Great! Keep up the misting and you should be nicely rewarded Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ace Posted April 4, 2007 (edited) When you do the initial case, you want to use very moist (not dripping wet, but nice and moist) casing material for the bottom and top - it will be more than sufficient for the first flush, after that, dunk the whole casing after each flush to keep the myc nice and active - you should be able to get about 4 reasonable flushes, sometimes more, depending on strains... BTW, congrats Sphinx - there should be a few mature fruits by the weekend Edited April 4, 2007 by Ace Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coschi Posted April 4, 2007 Woo!! So no problem eating fresh is there? Excuse my ignorance.. but what is and how to do dunking? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
