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The Corroboree
Fezza

My first

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Hey All,

Well, I've been a busy bee, and just thought I'd show the progress of my indoor garden.

This is my teranium:

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This is made up of a non see through container with the top cut out, and some glad wrap, sticky taped to the top. I've been keeping this in my wardrobe with the door open so that some indirect sun light shines in.

Under the hood:

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I only have four containers, all have the same strain of mycelium, but two different types casing material.

1. The darker casing is composed of verm/peat moss/Coco Coir, roughly at: 50%/30%/20%, moistened by a peroxide and water mix. (I did not sterilise the casing materials)

2. The lighter is just verm.

A close up of the verm/peat moss/Coco Coir (v/p/c) casing:

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A close up of the verm casing:

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The verm casing was laided at least a week and a half before the (v/p/c) casing.

I'll keep you all up to date on the progress.

Just want to thank everyone who replied to my questions and a big thanks to the person who sent out the beginings (You know who you are).

Peace

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Good stuff Fez!

Looks like the verm only casinng will pin very soon.

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Looking healthy :)

Beware growing out mycelium can become an addiction :wink:

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Looks good, I can't really see that well from the photo but has the casing layer shrunk away from the boxes a bit?

If so... then you let them dry out a bit too much (give the layer a bit of a spray too if it's looking dry. It can become a problem ebcause once it dries out it wont suck up moisture! (it becomes a bit water resistent like REALLY dried out pots). This will cause a smaller yield. Also you might get them popping up the sides which can be a bit of a pain. You will get this using clean containers too... I used to cover mine with foil until i got some non-transparent ones

Otherwise they look perfect. Don't forget to dunk inbetween flushes!

:)

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Here is a quick update on what stage the containers are up to.

all containers:

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Verm casing container

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smogs: Thanks for the tip about the aluminium foil, I had noticed some coming out the sides.

When you say "dunk", do you mean taking the mass out of the container and dunking it in water?

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Here is a quick update on what stage the containers are up to.

all containers:

post-1860-1168249322_thumb.jpg

Verm casing container

post-1860-1168249335_thumb.jpg

smogs: Thanks for the tip about the aluminium foil, I had noticed some coming out the sides.

When you say "dunk", do you mean taking the mass out of the container and dunking it in water?

Looking good mate.

Yeah, dunk them for sure. You can usually get a few dunks before you notice any signs of contam.

I use a clean bucket and weigh the cakes down so they are stuck under the water, and put in fridge overnight (24hrs is better) to rehydrate the cakes :)

Then take them out, use some more vermiculite if you'd like, on the base and around the top, and you'll hopefully be seeing more fruit within the week!

KlUe

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nice looking edibles Fezza :shroomer: Do you have the name of the strain? Any chance you could print a couple caps for some fellow students of mycology? :P be sure to keep us posted with pickies - looks like there should be plenty to harvest :)

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If they are cubies -and im not suggestingt they are - you had decent colonisation but he fruiting was a bit haphazard...

A decent flush using a decent istolate would come out even and nasty..

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UPDATE:

I lost 2 of my (v/p/c) containers to contaminates. 1 I was able to salvage one as the contaminates had not gone right through it.

So the one I saved I turned into a cake. I cut off all the green s*** off it. Not sure what went wrong, but the mycelium just stopped growing and then this green mould/fungus started growing on top and throught the cake.

Here is the one I saved:

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The vermiculite casing container has also slowed right down in growth. I think the air exchange in my container is not the best as you can see in the picture that the stems are very elongated and the caps are quite small.

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Should I cut my losses and pick the fruit and then dunk over night? then hope for the best?

I think I need some advice..

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heyy fez not bad for your first my last fruit looked the same as yours and i think were doing somthing wrong hopefully some of the more experienced guys can tell us whats going on i grew really big shrooms and hardly any of them,it would be nice to pack the whole casing with a sea of mushrooms insted of just a few,so comeon guys have a look at fezz pics and give your 5c worth please so we can tackel this problem cheers

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Fezza just out of interest, how often did you spray the container? Those last pics looked pretty dry to me.

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I was going to say the same thing klue. Long and skinnies usually meant that I didn't have enough humidity and light. Look at the babies coming up with the darkened caps and the absence of a bulbous base.....I think they are dehydrated abhorts.

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I have heard that light is good for them, but do shrooms of any kind need large amounts of it during the cropping phase? Would a well lit room be enough, or is a fluoro of some sort essential?

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I have heard that light is good for them, but do shrooms of any kind need large amounts of it during the cropping phase? Would a well lit room be enough, or is a fluoro of some sort essential?

I've never grown them in large amounts of light - just a few hours a day of a small fluoro bulb on top of my humidity dome.

This makes the temps raise a bit (which is a good thing - about 25 degrees) - and is also good in the humidity dome as it evaporates more water to give a better humid environment.

But large amounts of light can do damage especially if heat is involved (which there usually is..) as they drain the substrate & shrooms of their vital moisture...

KlUe

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I was under the impression that the drop in temps were ideal for fruiting (in comparison to the colonisation phase), and would potentially increase crop sizes... But I can see how the slightly higher temps would aid in creating a humid atmosphere. Perhaps a more experienced student of mycology would be able to help?

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I was under the impression that the drop in temps were ideal for fruiting (in comparison to the colonisation phase), and would potentially increase crop sizes... But I can see how the slightly higher temps would aid in creating a humid atmosphere. Perhaps a more experienced student of mycology would be able to help?

You're right that temp drops can help in fruiting, althoughmy situation with the dome is a little different, as its required to have light on there to give it a bit of heat for the required water evaporation. The shrooms don't seem to mind either :)

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Ahh, that makes sense :) Looking forward to your results KlUe. I plan on posting some results of an experiment I'm currently underway with a couple edibles (button mushrooms I think...). Have to wait for some good pickies :)

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Nice growing! Keep us posted on how you...hopefully they can pin better next time. Maybe remove the early fruits and give the trays a light spray. You dont neccessarily have to harvest all at once, especially if you maintain good sterile conditions, if the fruits are appearing staggered.

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that's awesome. I'm gonna have to learn mycology in winter time when all my plants/cacti stop growing. Anyone got any guides and tips for beginners other than PF teks?

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Answering Bongchitis questions:

- I have never sprayed the containers, I do however maintain high humidity by ensuring that the perilite is always moist.

- I do allow some indirect light, but its quite minimal.

A quick update:

- The contaminated cake which I managed to salvage did not last long as contaminates started showing its ugly face once again, so off to the garden it went.

- With the only remaining container I have picked off all the fruit and sprayed the casing with a light h2o2 + water combo, which has started the second flush.

I think that air exchange is still an issue, which I will rectify with my next batch.

After numerous attempts of obtaining prints from the small caps, I still wasn't able to.

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