planthelper

bio, I am pretty sure any of the fagus will not grow/survive your location, they need a cold climat.

today, I harvested three "pinkies" (fruits) of my ariocarpus kotschoubeyanus, and each fruit contained ~50seeds! I notice similar before, those arios produce far more seeds per fruit than lophs do, or did this abundance happen, because the flowers probably recieved foreign pollen??

thunder, I'm sorry to say your tunera diffusa in post #660 is not a diffusa, the leaves are, far, far to big, for damiana.

quick update, so you can see the progress with those crests!

hi, all! today, I did quite a peculiar graft, and the original inspiration, regarding v notch grafting came from kada. but now I realize, that my dyslexia, had struck again, and the following describes, the exact opposite of what, some people do, when grafting a crest. in other words, people and kada, used the stock shaped like a wedge, and the scion is the notch. my dyslexia made me do the opposite, I shaped the scion like a wedge, and the stock displayed the notch. I received this beauty full crest, from hellonasty, and though a long time of what to do with it. some reports suggest, that many crests will revert back to normal growth, if just planted out to form there own roots. some sources say, the same can happen even if you graft them, anyhow kada say's, if you wedge (got more side ways space for development?!) graft them, they will stay a crest ( now, I think, I misinterpretated this detail). today suddenly, I had the gut's to try this out, and I think this is a good tek, as it features, step by step, photos, and an innovation, which I call "v shaped cardboard template"!! here you see the cardboard template, and the crest in it's original shape. I used the template, to mark the crest, as to facilitate exact cutting, yep I pretended to be a plastic surgeon, hehehe. this pic shows the stock, it was v notched 3 day's ago already, to allow for shrinkage, to occur. the cardboard template, was fashioned, by inserting the same into the V notch, and as such accurate angles were obtained. note as well that the skin was trimmed off, all around the stock. leaving the skin might at a later stage produce a bad fit. this pic shows the scion partly secured, uppermost precise cutting is a must, not only the angle must fit, but the cuts have to be done as parallel as possible (unless you skew them twice, with the same degree, which would be very difficult, humans are trained for right angles). the following photo shows the leftovers, the v shaped tissue thing, is the left over, from re cutting the echinopsis stock, the other left over, is part of the crest. I have high hopes of, taking one areola from it, and graft it, onto peres, and than let the rest of the crest, form it's own roots, and hope for the best. fully bandaged graft, note the sticky tape used to hold the panty hose down, because of lack of spines. as well even more important, sticky tape was used to make sure the V notch doesn't open up, once it is exposed to the scions downward pressure. I used tb. Bendigo as stock, I hope it works, because the Bendigo was slightly yellow and not a fast grower. I think the, cardboard template is a good idea, as it can be used the same way, if you are using the stock fashioned into a wedge shape. the cardboard template, helps you to cut precise and to get all the angles perfect!

as with the other citrus fruits, finger lime seeds will germinate with ease, the most common reason for not germinating would have to be, lack of ample heat. trying to germinate seeds over winter without bottom heat, is more than likely a feature which will have to fail. anyway, here is a pic of my successfull germination of finger lime seeds. two seeds were removed from the fruit on 20.7.14, and planted the same day. the pic was taken today, 5.9.14, so germination took ~30 day's!

neee, your miles off, it's an ornamental, hehehe.

I just had a very good and close inspection, at my 3 albertos, and I noticed that, they look exactly how, they are described in post #25! they all are greyish and not a nice green collor like all my other lophs, so I conclude, they have alberto heritage and are not the result of mixed up seed, but must have had a large loph as pollinator!! Color: This is were alberto is different from koehresii & a lot more like fricii, alberto has a grey/mauve, greenish/violet epidermis & never get a dark bold green color

I wonder how you can believe that a 45mm diameter loph, which grew to this size very fast, can be an alberto. here are more details, I was given 5 seeds for free and the person said they are alberto seeds. I managed to germinate 3, two of them I grafted, one I left on it's own roots. you can clearly see on my pic that they are already after one season far too big to be albertos. the 3rd one though, which I did not graft, grows very, very slowly and stayed quite small. have a look at my pic. it's easy to explain how some seeds could be true albertos and others which came in the same batch ar not, the seeds were either mixed with other seeds (unlikely as I think we all avoid this from happening) or, more likely the mother plant was cross pollinated and self and same of a kind pollinated. we need more info, was the mother plant kept in isolation, or only kept with other true albertos? it doesn't look that way to me. here is my pic, those two grafts are clearly no albertos!!

the last pic is a stunner, looks like a stage setting, with stage lights and the cacti are the performers!

sasca, I heard the same, but quercus ilex, will not grow at my area, whilst suber does. carya illinoensis, the pecan nut does grow alright in my garden, and thats' why I chase tuber lyonii. I was told in a conversation, with a host tree nurseryman, that not heat is the problem, but one needs 1400h below 7 deg C. that's 8 weeks, I manage at my location maybe, 2 or 3 weeks, with this temperature. my gamble is, that tuber lyonii, has a lesser chill requirement. has anybody of you experience with getting a fungus through quarantine?

yes tangich, I would say, as a german speaker, koehrens naturaly used his own lingo to name this trait. and yes, koehrens is an excellent source of weisse bluete seeds.

not many tektites are as see thru, and clear as the moldavites, apart from the Tasmanian tektites. they are not from space, though.... 1988Metic__horn.htm

not many people grow albertos, so that's probably why, you maybe had to talk to yourselfe for a while... I was given a few alberto seeds via the forum, but they were not, true alberto seeds, but cross pollinated, and as such produced mostly bigger lophs, than albertos. one of the seedlings though, turned out to be a true alberto! the pic shows 3 hard grown (just learned that term ) lophs, all are the same age, guess which one is the alberto. edit: yes some lophs have white petals, koehrens named those weisse bluete!

probably not means, the fungus will not survive any periode without a host, or do you mean if sterile, it will survive for some time ? (obsolete question now, as it has been answered, whilst I was composing, cheers, ferret) "grow your own truffles on the window sill, dreaming"

nailsnail, don't re cut the pedro... in_spirits advice is very good, and you should heed it, in future, but not in this instance. because, there is a likely hood, that you will cut away, the areola which is just in the process of forming, the pup! in short you might cut off, the inmature pup, and this would mean, you will have, to start over waiting for your pup to emerge.

paradox, that is an exciting idea, but will the fungus survive the period, till roots as host are available?

the chinese truffles, are edible and have some value, but they mostly get used as, a much cheaper alternative (for flavouring manufactured food) to the gourmet black and white truffles. as far as my understanding goes, none of the ozzi native truffles, have any potential, to enter the food or gourment food market. maybe oz is rich in truffles, because generally, the soils here are very poor... I am not sure, but maybe the native truffles are as well very small in size only...

thunder, yes they sell inoculated trees in oz, they are ~ 44aud for a 30cm tree, and btw, some people reported, they got sizeable truffles after only 3 years, but average is around 6 to 7 years. contams are a real issue, and it's said that some nurseries are contaminated badly, so maybe better to do, your own inoculation, which means pouring spore slurry over the seedlings, something that sounds easy, cough, cough, apart from contam issues.... I read that, truffles (non food) are abundant in oz, they said every field trip, they discover new species, and at times even new genera!! so keeping them (the wild ones) off, would be a must. os, nurseries are contaminated with chinese truffle....

alright! stress could definitely make one wake up early, without the chance of a 2nd sleep in. waking up early, and than falling asleep again is wonderfull, not being able to do so, is the total opposite....

paradox, this is interesting, so your hazels, survive the warm climate, but don't set fruit, but this could be good enough, for this project. I ruled hazel as a host out, because, I thought it would not survive the heat at my location. so maybe, I will take you on, with this offer, thank you. ferret, so your slice of truffle is a, tuber melanosporum? I think sourcing a cork oak, will be easy, so no worries. and if not, I can wait another year. the cork oak could be cool though, even if the whole idea, will not work. my place, more than likely will not produce enough hours below 7 deg C, to induce fruiting...., that's why I chase lyonii, which maybe, would fruit with less, hours below 7 deg C.

g man, in the other tread you say it's terminal insomnia, that would mean you have, less a problem falling asleep, than staying asleep for more than 5h. this means, imho, that nothing of the above will help, because the effects of those herbs, would have worn off, during your 5h of sleep. I think you have bipolar, it perfectly fits your symtoms. treat the bipolar with herbs or pharmas....

g man, I read parts of the replies with care and others, I just skimmed, so sorry if it has been mentioned. I think there is a fair chance you simply experience a manic episode. do you think you could have bipolar? I have observed that people with bipolar, who self medicate with cannabis, (one of the best bipolar drugs!) often get thrown into a manic state right, after they stop taking the cannabis medicine. not to say you use, this herb, anyway, I bet you are simply "full of beans". in this state people sleep only a few hours and this situation can last from wees to several months.

it's just a far cry, but are there, by any chance any palentologists around here? I want to visit L78 and L 215....

I was told once (and I believe the story )that you can use the contents of an in mature coconut (skin still fleshy and glossy and not dried up) as for the purpose on an IV. for this application one uses a coconut which liquid is still clear and not milky.