Inyan
-
Content count
1,233 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
44
Posts posted by Inyan
-
-
13 hours ago, Gimli said:If I'm picking on you its usually because I think you have excellent talent and or ingenuity. In your case, I see a bit of both. You've got some excellent healing showing on many of your grafts which shows me that either you A.... used parafilm B... had excellent humidity... or C... a little of both. With that being said, parafilm is not without its faults. No method is perfect, but you have done well with the grafts I've seen and that tells me you listen to what your grafts are telling you. I.e. you pay attention to whats going on. Two thumbs up @Gimli.
-
On 8/19/2018 at 6:34 AM, Gimli said:3 upside down bits I did. Still firm, especially the middle one
Very good work here. You appear to have listened to your grafts well as they stock has healed up very nicely. That first one is especially nice. Now to hurry up and wait for it to do something for us.
jourdaniana varietal mam
...
-
1
-
-
22 hours ago, mysubtleascention said:
I've dicided to give this particular monstrose growing 'sharxx blue x tpm' hybrid a name, for I'm about to release some cloned cuttings and grafts soon ..There'll be other monstose hybrids with same parentage and it's a way to distinguish, naming ..
A great big THANK YOU to @nitrogen for the amzing personality he is and his visionary approach hybridizing these plants!
So.. without further ado.. intoducing "Clime"..
I'll add more photos as this plant developes further.
It's very blue obviously, short spines, peruvian look.. when normal
It's a keeper and It'll be very interesting to see pictures from outdoor plants .
cheers
B.
I've gotten a few monster specimens off of this cross as well. Some of which I have already dispersed on ebay and the like... unnamed. Those specimens may never be named as they circulate and as such.... many may find themselves getting two or three of the same exact cultivar thinking they are getting something different.
To name or not to name... that is always the question, but once done I believe it is an excellent way of keeping track of a specimen and ensuring one does not buy duplicates of the same.
Excellent specimen by the way!
-
1
-
-
8 hours ago, ace1928 said:Yeh chemical treatments can be super hazardous to the person using them, especially due to the subtle damage they cause as compared to out right chemical burns or some other obvious reaction (although many will cause an obvious reaction as well).
Definitely not something trivial to play with lightly.
Polyploidy is not something I've played with much yet but definitely one I want to have some with with soon. I think oryzalin would be a better option than colchicine though. Colchicine does kill a large number of what you use it on.
And I defo need to get me some of those variegate misplant seeds.
Anyone got some nice variegate producing seed they want to exchange a few of the induced mutant seed for?
Yeah, chemicals can be hazardous if improperly handled. Even household bleach can kill. Bottom line, don't sniff, drink, or otherwise touch chemicals with your bare hands if you haven't read the SDS or MSDS on them and are sure that it is okay. . If your not willing to read an SDS or MSDS or take simple precautions such as wearing gloves to protect yourself from some of the more hazardous chemicals you probably shouldn't be allowed around chemicals.
-
1
-
-
These girls no how to handle their bagpipes...
-
-
On 7/21/2018 at 3:13 PM, Humbolt said:Yep, now i get it. Thanks mate, vids were really helpful. Parafilm is very different to the grafting tape i used (stretch). Does it have pores/ holes when stretched? I assume things would vary with stock and conditions but how long would you leave it on generally?
Just ebay'd me a couple of rolls, cant wait to get my graft on.
Examples of how long I leave my parafilm on... Here you can see I forgot to remove the parafilm altogether
Aesthetically speaking... removing the parfilm in a three weeks from this stage would be perfect for me
-
2
-
-
Not all Lophophora are able to self-pollinate. Take this little one here for example...
It and others in its geographic location are known not to self-pollinate. If one concludes that self-fertilization results in decreased fertility and lowered seed set as is often the case from the sources I have read on and that the result of outcrossing is often an increased seed set... perhaps it is simply the fact that you are rolling the dice with the same sets of chromosomes and albeit they may be more mixed up... the sets themselves have not changed as much as rolling the dice with an unrelated individual.For what its worth, crossing a Brugmansia aurea or such back to its mother repeatedly also lowers the fertility rate and eventually results in a Brugmansia that rarely if ever sets seeds to its parent if this is done for approximately 3-4 generations.
Big Bend
Huizache
La Paloma 
pollens all vary greatly from one another, yet they are all the same species. Then you get into some of the hybrids
and the pollen changes again.-
1
-
-
Thought I would show a few more seeds busting
through the parafilm and one seedling that the parafilm was never removed from...
Besides the parafilm looking like it spent too much time in an ashtray, everything goes just fine this way. -
Definitely depends on what your growing and where. For instance... if one was mass sowing pejuta along the Texas border... the cacti is already indigenous there so no real harm.
-
1
-
-
Parafilm splitting... this is how seedlings penetrate
-
1
-
-
48 days old... and a nice hybrid 
cousin-
1
-
-
-
-
9 hours ago, solomon said:Inyan, great thread, will be attempting this soon.
In the top photo is this B. sanguinea? As stock?
I have a lot of B. sanguinea seedlings and wanted to know if I could use them as a stock for the less cold tolerant species.
If you dig deep enough, you will likely find I have Datura pistils grafted onto Brugmansia and vice versa. My suggestion to you... try everything you desire. It is the only way you can prove to yourself what works and what doesn't.
I know sometimes crosses that are taught to produce one result.... when one actually does them... much different results are sometimes found. Whether that is because the "expert" tried and failed or because the "expert" was going on prior knowledge... who knows. What I can tell you is that no two seedlings are alike and no two grafters are alike. What works for you... may not work so well for me because perhaps you have a better box cutter blade or some other technique that I have not discovered yet and vice versa.
When you have extra of something... that is when the fun begins. Graft both ways and see what works best for you. Graft to versicolor stock, suaveolens stock, aurea stock, hybrids, etc. Go wild with it. See if anything new pops up for you. Perhaps you are more observant and will note things that the previous grafter did not notice when it comes to the influence of the stock on the scion. There are many reasons to graft, but my favorite reason to graft is simply because its fun and can give unexpected results sometimes such as those rare chimera plants one sees every so often.
Now, can you imagine a cold x warm group chimera.....
-
2
-
-
And now I understand....-
4
-
-
9 August 2018
43 Days old
A friend told me they had achieved 93%+ success by grafting with parafilm. So, stoked to see some are getting that particular grafting style down pat.
Now If we can start seeing some more grafting pictures....
-
3
-
-
40 days old
6 August 18
-
1
-
-
-
First, I notice my scion is a little moist and has been moist
for about about a week. Now, letting her rest longer before undressing her would be nice as it would allow her to poke out the top and look around. Letting her poke out would also help keep her top on. Trust me, its no fun when the top comes off prematurely if its not done just right.So, one pull with the blade down the side and away from the scion loosens
things up a bit. Now, one could be done at this point if one wanted to as this will release some moisture and allow the parafilm dressing to fall off of its own accord given some time.Still, if one is impatient, you can gently peel the dress back on both sides so as not to alert the scion that anything is even happening. No pressure on her whatsoever. Once the dress is sufficiently peeled back, you may lightly shimmy the dress up and back by pushing up on the parafilm rather than pulling or tugging at the parafilm. If any resistance is met... remember, "No means No" and do not persist with your efforts today. Perhaps tomorrow she will be in the mood and a little more loosened up. Never force it!
-
1
-
-
She's hot, sticky sweet. From her head to her feet.... she's drenched and ever so moist...
-
Grafting Brugmansia is about as easy as grafting cacti @Gimli With that being said, green pieces of Brugmansia can be adequately grafted with just parafilm.
However, self-adhesive coban as a first or secondary larger is very nice to use for older wood when it comes to Brugmansia. I say that as coban can exert a lot more force to hold a cut that is slightly off in place so that the union forms more easily.
The down side of very green specimens and grafting with Brugmansia... they tend to dry out very easily if not covered almost completely in parafilm and or coban. I've used humidity domes to increase humidity with very green specimens and even filled water bags up to surround the graft to supply extra water to grafts to ensure they did not dry out... believe it or not... it worked.
-
1
-
-
Cut up a batch of 100 + Trichocereus/Echinopsis grown out from seed and a few named cultivars
-
4
-
-
3 hours ago, Gimli said:
Got a little bored and decided to take a knife to one of my astros
I present to you... Rock Art Graft Tek
edit: probably a little on the heavy side but eh The upside down bit I just used a stocking
I've used both of these methods myself as well.
Unlike parafilm, you won't have to worry about too much humidity with grafts this size exposed to so much open air. The opposite though is often true. Meaning you may have to contend with scions drying up faster than you might like. This presents more of a problem if there is a bit of tissue that has an air bubble that has managed to get into the graft union or worse... a bit of tissue that has not seated properly at all. This is why with grafts this size I frequently use self-adhesive coban or another material to draw down the sides and ensure I have good seating all the way around.
Enough of my rambling, I love the fact that @Gimli your showing different grafting techniques. Each one with its own distinct advantages and disadvantages. Something you learn best by becoming proficient at them all.
I'll look forward to updates from you on these grafts. And one quick question... is that one graft I thought was parafilm... cling wrap or parafilm? If parafilm, you sure as heck got a big sheet of that one to work with or at least it looks that way from my perspective which of course could be wrong.
Grafts -Photos & Updates
in Cacti & Succulents
Posted
Natural environment certainly can help or hinder depending on humidity and the like. One thing is for certain though, your grafts look very nice and are a testament to the fact that anyone can learn to graft which is exactly what I have been saying from the beginning. 5 to 105, so long as they are willing to try and have hands that are stable enough to guide them through the actions of grafting... anyone can graft.
With that being said, I'm still learning from my grafts. That is especially true when I change up variables and try something new. Even something as simple as grafting to a woody specimen versus a nice young specimen can teach you things about grafting.