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The Corroboree

Inyan

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Posts posted by Inyan


  1. Looking at that top slab graft you are trying to do, I can tell a few things... one,  you may have used an older possibly a middle cutting, to graft on.

     

    Two, dry air or lack of humidity in this case was not your friend this time around. The faster your stock dries out the more of a problem you can have and that is compounded the older your stock is. 

     

    It is a double edged sword though, too much humidity for too long and you are going to invite rot and infection. Especially so if your tools were not absolutely clean between each cut.

     

    This is how I roll with a similar slab graft. Note, the stock in this case was only a few weeks old as it was grafted itself to be used as graft stock...

    areolegraft285.jpg

    areolegraft285.thumb.jpg.91588e1bd69ea88f9f6f9b6923654cbf.jpg

    areolegraft285.thumb.jpg.91588e1bd69ea88f9f6f9b6923654cbf.jpg

    • Like 1

  2. On 18/02/2019 at 7:53 PM, Ethnoob said:

     

    I hope your losses weren't too extreme.

    You should hope for the opposite when testing for cold hardiness the more specimens fail to thrive the more advantage you can see for keeping those that actually made it. I've still got my few frozen bits outside hoping for more freezes, but suffice it to say... I don't see how beneficial that might be seeing that I put thousands of seedlings outside and had less than a handful make it. But, I'm still trying to push the envelope nonetheless.

    • Like 1

  3. "'Although all parts of the plant are edible, some reports warn that consumption of large quantities of young shoots can be hallucinogenic and should be avoided." http://www.oardc.ohio-state.edu/weedguide/single_weed.php?id=37

     

    "Although all parts of the plant are edible, some reports warn that consumption of large quantities of young shoots can be hallucinogenic and should be avoided"https://brigittemars.com/other/day-lilies/

     

    Not condoning any lighthearted research with this one, but it does make one want to see what other information is available on the medicinal as well as psychotropic properties of Hemerocallis.

     

     


  4. Yes, apparently the flowers are edible. The foliage is what is supposed to be hallucinogenic and even then from the little  bit I can find on it... it appears that large quantities need to be eaten to garner any affect. If cooked, the foliage becomes edible and the hallucinogenic property is destroyed. I'm thinking juicing might be the best way to gather this substance, but it would be nice to know at what temperature the hallucinogenic molecule is deactivated. Thinking along the lines of drying out the material at highest safe temps to enable a smaller quantity to be worked with. As it is far smarter to err on the side of caution and make many experiments than to overshoot and find out the quantity one has chosen is much more than is safe to work with.

     

    "As for edibility….. Young spring shoots and leaves under five inches taste similar to mild onions when fried in butter. They are also a mild pain killer and in large quantities are hallucinogenic.  The leaves quickly become fibrous so they can only be eaten young (but you can make cordage out of the older leaves.)  The flower buds, a rich source of iron, are distinguished from the plant’s non-edible fruits by their internal layering. The blossoms are edible as well, raw or cooked (as are seeds if you find any.) The dried flower contains about 9.3% protein, 25% fat, 60% carbohydrate, 0.9% ash. It is rich in vitamin A.  The closed flower buds and edible pods are good raw in salads or boiled, stir-fried or steamed with other vegetables. The blossoms add sweetness to soups and vegetable dishes and can be stuffed like squash blossoms. Half and fully opened blossoms can be dipped in a light batter and fried tempura style (which by the way was a Portuguese way of cooking introduced to Japan.) Dried daylily petals are an ingredient in many Chinese and Japanese recipes "http://www.eattheweeds.com/daylily-just-cloning-around-2/

     

     


  5. On 20/12/2018 at 7:47 AM, Humbolt said:

    Wonderful stuff going on there Gimli, great pics.

    How long do you leave a parafilm graft in high humidity for? and wheres @Inyanwhen you need him just did my 1st?

     

    You never have to put your graft in humidity if your using parafilm. You also never have to remove the parafilm. With that being said, one slice down the side after the graft has taken off should allow the parafilm to be rolled back and easily removed. If its hard to remove your parafilm your trying too hard. You can also simply make your one slice and leave your parafilm in place. The parafilm will fall off on its own. 

     

    Hope that helps guys.

     

    For those that have been wondering what I've been up to... I've subjected my entire collection to freezing weather in hopes of getting a few specimens that can take nice frost, snow, etc. and come up with a very tiny limited gene pool to work with. Very devastating to say the least if I was actually concerned with specimens that lacked hardiness... which I am not. So, here's to having a very few Trichocereus and Echinopsis that made it through the freezing conditions I've exposed them to this year. And when I say a few... I can count my entire collection now on two hands. Ahh, such is life.


  6. On 27/10/2018 at 3:39 AM, Gimli said:

    Went with what are probably the most common 5. Feel free to add more below and fill in dot points etc

     

    Hylocereus

     

    Pros:

    Vigorous growth

    Quick to propagate

     

    Cons:

    Rots easier than other stocks

    Cold-dormant

    Smaller grafting area

    Can deform scion or over produce offsets

     

    Myrtillocactus

     

    Pros:

    Longevity

    Large grafting area

     

    Cons:

    Average growth speed (could be a pro, scion dependent)

    Slow to propagate (striking roots)

     

    Pachanoi

     

    Pros:

    Easy to graft onto

    Easy to handle

    Longevity

    Can handle heavy scions

    Good for slab grafting

    Large grafting area

     

    Cons:

    Not suited to small seedlings

    Thirsty

     

    Pereskiopsis

     

    Pros:

    Suited to small seedlings

    Vigorous growth

    Impale grafting

    Can handle little or lots of water

     

    Cons:

    Constantly offsets

    Can't handle heavy offsets unless staked

    Covered in glochids

     

    Selenicereus

     

    Pros:

    Quick to propagate

    Easy to handle

    Vigorous growth

     

    Cons:

    Similar cons to Hylocereus or Pereskiopsis

     

     

    Pachanoi is most assuredly suited for small seedlings and small areoles to boot....2091554247_TrichocereusscopulicolaxTrichocereusterscheckii18.thumb.jpg.7776dd9fbd33d39feb4d0329a52bb5ab.jpg1317705238_6June18variegatedcrestedpachanoiareolegraft79days48.thumb.jpg.1a95cb5501dd77690e12784dfbc7f8e5.jpg1276352372_pupgrafting.thumb.png.4e20dece7681dd557825e62f998f7231.png

    2091554247_TrichocereusscopulicolaxTrichocereusterscheckii18.thumb.jpg.7776dd9fbd33d39feb4d0329a52bb5ab.jpg

    1317705238_6June18variegatedcrestedpachanoiareolegraft79days48.thumb.jpg.1a95cb5501dd77690e12784dfbc7f8e5.jpg

    1276352372_pupgrafting.thumb.png.4e20dece7681dd557825e62f998f7231.png

    2091554247_TrichocereusscopulicolaxTrichocereusterscheckii18.thumb.jpg.7776dd9fbd33d39feb4d0329a52bb5ab.jpg

    1317705238_6June18variegatedcrestedpachanoiareolegraft79days48.thumb.jpg.1a95cb5501dd77690e12784dfbc7f8e5.jpg

    1276352372_pupgrafting.thumb.png.4e20dece7681dd557825e62f998f7231.png

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