dogbane26

I am looking for Psychotria poeppigiana seeds. I would be willing to pay or do a trade. Is anyone on these forums from Panama? I think it is native to some parts of that country.

Hey guys I have been looking for these seeds for awhile now. Does anyone know where I can find them for sale or can someone please trade with me or let me buy some from you? I know herbalistics use to sell them but they are currently out of stock. I had successful germination using 1700ppm and had about 6 seeds germinate but I only kept 1 plant from those seedlings. I had it for almost a year but it was raining so much here in Florida in the summer. It got some fungal disease along with probably too much water and it died. I wish someone could help me get more seeds. I still have GA left over. Please send me a pm whenever you read this!

I think if I remember right, Hyoscamus seeds remain viable for long periods. Ive heard of the story of weed seeds found in the pharoahs tombs. I am not sure what they were but Hyoscamus could of been a possibility. They might survive 10,000 years especially if buried deep in the soil where they can enter dormancy or if kept frozen but not frozen if you know what i mean like say in the lemmings burrow. Many weed seeds can do that until conditions are right such as water, sunlight..etc. Solanaceae has got to be one of the most interesting plant families around. Anyone know of hades plant? I forget the Genus. It isn't anything common like Atropa, Datura, Mandragora, Hyoscamus..etc. It is a different genus i remember.

I could try and take a pic but its hard to see the stem very close since it isn't that big. I recently noticed a bunch of black spots. I am guessing it is conidia or spores? Whatever it is I grow other Solanaceae and haven't had a problem with them. I started my D. hopwoodii as seeds so if it is a pathogenic fungus it probably occurs around here in North central florida and may be specific to certain kinds of Solanaceae. I am growing Cestrum nocturnum which is in the same subfamily as D. hopwoodii but havent noticed anything on my Cestrum plants. Torsten do you know if you will be selling Yohimbe plants this year? The two you gave me last year died. I got 1 to survive for awhile and it leafed out well from the cuttings u sent me, but i killed it with this neem oil spray because insects such as red spider mites were a problem once the summer started here in Florida. It probably was insect free but i sprayed all my plants anyways as a precaution.

I am wondering if anyone knows if Duboisia hopwoodii can be propagated vegetatively by using rooting hormone powder and planting in soil? If it doesnt work I guess then I wont have a live plant anymore. The top of my plant where all the leaves were located looked wilted the other day. I watered it and it still didn't recover. I think it is wilted because of a fungus that may be growing on the stem near the base of the plant. I am not sure what kind of fungus it may be but it looks yellowish to greyish and occurs in spots. The cuttings i took from the main stem and right below the part where the leaves were. I dont think the fungus got on that part of the stem. The cuttings looked green still. Should i keep the unrooted cuttings out of direct sunlight such as maybe have them in a windowsill so they get some sun? Could this be a native species of fungi that attacks Solanaceae plants growing in Florida?

Actually they arn't that difficult to germinate. Plant them in moist spaghnum moss when it is warm outdoors. If you live in a climate that is cold then use heatmats and cover the top of the pots with plastic wrap to keep the humidity high. Its good to allow some ventilation every day or two. They take 30-45 days to germinate. Some seeds may take longer but you will get most to germinate in that time frame. The tricky part is when they germinate they like to keep the seedcoat on which requires a safety pin or similar device which you will need to carefully remove the seedcoat. Both of my plants have split into two main stems instead of one which was the norm since they were seedlings. One of my plants produced one sucker which I removed and replanted. It probably isn't any different genetically but if this is a common method of propagation that this species uses in the wild then great. Seeds are better for genetic variation but suckers are much easier especially if I want to trade plants with other people.

I have two Tabernaemontana orientalis bushes and both of them have split into two stems rather than one main stem which was the normal habit for quite a long time. I doubt they both were damaged by insects but it is rather a typical growth habit that probably occurs at a certain time in its life cycle. I am hoping for flowers. They are about 2 feet high now. Does it sound like they are going to flower? Does anyone know how tall they have to be or is it triggered by daylength in addition to age? One of my T.orientalis sent up a sucker. Is that common as well? I divided it and put it in another pot. I am thinking if they can send up suckers that they may be able to take some mild freezes and then come back from the roots in the form of suckers in the spring. Here in Florida the freezes are mainly above ground freezes. Hardly ever will they kill the roots of any plant.

Although I don't live in Australia I am growing Duboisia hopwoodii here in Florida,USA. How old/ or big do they have to be before they flower? Does anyone know?

Zaka my friend David(Dbotany) who sells E. novo seeds referred him to me. David is reliable and will send E. novo seeds once he receives western union payment. Im not so sure about that trukdo guy though. Zaka I sent you some E.novo and was wondering how they are doing? I myself have one plant left because the other two were damaged by wind and also too much rain. The remaining plant seems to be homozygous recessive since it is dwarf. I am assuming it is more tolerant of wind. Slower growing but overall seems to produce the same number of leaves as a taller plant would. I like dwarf/compact plants and I am sure natural selection would select for them anyways since I lost my other plants since they were weak and the wind pretty much wiped them out.

Zaka, I ordered from him and he never sent me my E. coca seeds. Either he didn't send them and kept my western union money or he did and US customs confiscated them.

I would like a Rifat Strain, but was wondering why my Kratom looks alot different? Yours doesn't have a tip to the stem and mine is dark green. I grew mine from seed. Could mine be a Thai red Kratom? http://www.spiritplants.org/rain-forest/topic4048.html The only things I have to trade right now are: Synsepalum dulcificum (Miracle Fruit) seedlings, Psychotria ipecacuanha( True Ipecac) seedlings, I also have Piper methysticum (Kava Kava) and I was told by the seller that it is the Moi variety. I am going to wait a little on the kava until it produces some more stems where I can then divide/separate the rhizomes. I might have Duboisia hopwoodii ( Pituri) plants in the next couple of months. Let me know if you are interested in anything or would prefer to just accept money order. I might have other stuff too just pm me if you want.

Id like a Kratom rooted cutting. I live in the USA, how about you? I will tell you what I have to trade after you tell me where you are located.

Well what is it exactly that interests you about these plants? I myself am very fascinated by secondary compounds produced by plants but I don't want to have to get a 4 year degree in Chemistry. It seems it is usually hard to find a biologist that really is into chemistry but also a chemist that likes biology. Someone will argue what about biochemists. I would still say in my opinion that they lean more towards the chemistry side just like organic chemistry isn't really much different than general chemistry except for there is barely any math and organic is more visual. Albert Hofmann was into natural product chemistry and although he probably knew more about chemistry he still knew somethings about biology and had an interest in it. I think he turned down jobs even though everything was turning towards relying on synthetics vs plants that can be just as effective as medicines. I am doing plant biology myself but even some things in biology i would agree are boring. This might be my opinion but ecology is probably one of the most interesting fields of biology and that is why it is usually taught towards the beginning of general biology so that by the time you get to molecular biology and dna, genetics..etc the students arnt already bored to death. Darwin and evolutionary biology was also interesting. Genetics is ok once you get a good grasp/ understanding of mitosis and meiosis and most of the basic stuff like how to do probabilities, different types of dominance. I guess genetics gets more complex towards the end and you have to know about biochemical pathways so biochemistry helps. When I first took genetics i thought it had to be the most boring section in general bio class after cell biology. I wonder if anyone knows if they offer plant chemistry where you dont need to take all those other chemistry classes beyond organic? I dont care about synthetic and nuclear chem or etc. Only if it applies to plants.

Safrole I think is an essential oil found in many different species of plants. What is interesting is many native Australian species contain essential oils. The Eucalyptus is one of the more better known. I think safrole is found in Tasmania lanceolata but some Tasmania species dont contain it. I guess I heard they are working on developing safrole free cultivars? It seems to me safrole may be found in wild plants and used as a defense mechanism against herbivores and or pathogens? Although it is beneficial against herbivores it might not be good for human consumption to flavor foods. Tasmannia lanceolata has also been said to contain alot of anti-oxidants which is strange since it also contains safrole and safrole has been said to be carcinogenic! Its interesting the compounds that are found in wild plants but lost through breeding. Ive heard Sassafras albidum is pretty winter hardy. It is hardy in USDA zone 4 most winters.

Actually they are not that hard to propagate. Plant them in spaghnum moss. keep in a humidity dome if you can, and cover the top of the pot with plastic wrap. Plastic wrap isnt need if its in a humidity dome. Bottom heat is necessary. Don't overwater and dont let get bone dry either. I used an HPS lamp before and it was in a room where the temperature(heater) was always at 70 F or higher. They take 4-6 weeks before you notice anything. Germination doesn't happen all at once. You will get a few, then another week or so you will get more.....and more.... The tricky part is when they do germinate they like to keep the seedcoat on. Someone told me to bury them and that will force them to shed it. Otherwise you have to carefully remove it yourself a little at a time using a safety pin or something small like that. Carefuly i mean you dont want to damage the cotyledons or the stem. Or some say it just takes time and it will shed it itself. I have yet to successfully get the seedcoat off of Tabernanthe iboga. Ive had success now with Tabernaemontana orientalis and they also take 4-6 weeks to germinate and are stubborn about removing the coats on their own.