ENtiTY

Updating rahli's link kiwiboancaya

There is not much of an alternative unless you want to work in a glove box or flow hood. With a self healing port setup it would be best practice to make sure all the solution is clear from the inside of the needle before withdrawing, then thoroughly cleaning the port and lid surface with alcohol and then cover the port to protect it against airborne contaminants. This should greatly reduce the chance of infections being able to get at the port by reducing the amount of residue that can be potentially trapped within the port followed by removing any that may be on the external area of the port where the source of infection will come from and finally physically shielding the port from contamination sources. The wording of my previous post kinda suggests that I think they are a bad idea which is not the case. They are not free from risk, is more what I was trying to convey. @magicalmedic: Yeah it was def the port. You could see the contam growing through the port, grey mould it was.

Self healing ports on LC cultures sound good but in practice only invite infection due to residue from the LC medium being trapped within the port as the needle is withdrawn. IME anyway.

Here is an example of the Papaver somniferum alba similar to the one I have. Looks like someone has tried to milk them If that someone had of done some research they would have found that the alba contains very little morhine etc

Oh forgot to add that I have some Papaver somniferum alba if your interested. Throws single and double flowers that are pure white on the inside of the petal with a dash of purple on the outside of the petal right at its base. Seed is a light tan colour. Found in an old historic private garden that was owned by botanists.

Thebaine is pretty dangerous stuff. Especially if you took a dose thinking it was the regular alk profile variety. Would be deaths for sure if those seeds got into the market so they make sure they don't. Their bound by duty of care. This is how I understand it based upon my understanding of the law.

Similar things have been done in the past by myself and others. It's a great idea and doesn't take much effort as you say. Kind of hoping a give away like your describing would pop up as all my prints that I used to study seem to have gotten lost while moving house over the last couple of years. People here are for the most part very generous and willing to help new comers get started. Also you may want to re-word your post "(edibles are most welcome too)" as your encouraging people to conduct illegal activities. Not only is this inappropriate but very frowned upon here and you will have a mod jump on you soon as this against forum rules.

caramelisation may take place at 160 deg c at ambient pressure but remember that pressure cookers run at increased pressure hence why they are called pressure cookers. Pressure has a big effect on chemical reactions and a reaction that takes place under pressure will not have the same parameters as without pressure. So what is degrading depends upon what you are putting into your agar and it is bad because the fungi your trying to culture can't make use of it.

What about Tyvek spray suits? Quality of the Tyvek weave might be a bit to inconsistent to use as a reliable filter.

I'll just grab a lion's mane at this stage then and wait for the pinks to become available. Whats the pricing and postage atm. Thanx

Its all a load of shit. There powerless to stop torrents and they know it so they resort to fear mongering. I seem to remember the powers that be running a similar scare tactic stunt 18 months or so ago. Was all bullshit and went nowhere. Use a peer blocker and hold off for a day or so on new torrents and you'll be fine. Edit: Breaking Bad is AWESOME! So cool to see that evil bastard get half his face blown off! Season 5 will be the last... so sad

Firstly, Nexus is not the same species as viridis. As is well known it is a hybrid between 2 species of Psychotria, of which viridis is one of the parents. They are of the same Genus. Re different growth rates within species, I have a couple of cultivars of Salvia nemorosa and 1 of them has very poor vigor when compared to the other. The vigorous one would grow more than 3-4 times faster than the slow one easily. In seed grown plants there is heaps of diversity and trait differences, whereas is a nursery full of potted shrubs the plants all look and grow the same because they are all clones of the same plant. Also, plant growth rates can't be compared by comparing their respective heights. Plants don't only grow up they also grow out, so the only accurate way to compare grow rates is in vegetative mass over time while grown under the same conditions. Hybrid vigor as trip suggests would most certainly be the culprit re increased growth rates. A good way to compare would be to grow a Nexus along side each of its parents in the respective ideal conditions of each parent.

Thanx for taking the time to help me out there peeps. The Terscheckiinot spination looks very much like my cuzco and nothing like the terscheckii I grafted from seed. Maybe it has some cuzco in it.

I have a question that is not really to do with the purchase of the seeds but rather the wording used. What is the difference between a pachanot / pachanoi etc? By the way the super pedro x psycho0 is a very vigorous hybrid. I have a few that I have grown from seed and they have way out grown all the other trico's sown at the same time. Prolly make good grafting stock.

After doing a little bit of research on the different fungi I think I would like to start with pink oyster and lions mane. So If I could order 1 bag each of those I'd be very happy. If a single order for those is to much trouble then could I just get a plate of each?

Hey trip, I know this is an old thread but do you still have this mush on culture or as a print maybe?

I'm keen! Been out of the myco game for a couple of years and just rediscovered all my gear while going through some old storage boxes. What's a fairly forgiving species that likes the warm weather? Something to ease back into the game. Blue oysters maybe?

Wow that's huge for a 4yr old from seed! Whats your secret rahli? Unfortunately I haven't the cash to splash on something like this ATM. Good on ya rahli for the generous contribution.

Last pic is wilting, other pics are of advanced wilting and that stem will not recover. Wilting can be caused by several things, 1: Lack of water around the roots, 2: Too much water around the roots and the roots have rot and died, 3: A pathogen has attacked the stem/trunk of the plant, 4: Sometimes mid day temperatures are excessive and the plant transpires more water than it can take up through its roots causing the plant to appear wilted even though there is plenty of soil moisture and no disease. Judging by the pics and your saying it has had a rapid decline I would say your plant is suffering from root rot. Your khat is to small for that size pot. Khat's don't like to be excessively wet so in general its best to gradually increase pot size as the plant and root ball increase in size. Check the growing medium and see if it is wet or dry at 5 to 10cm deep. Top may look dry but it may be very wet down at the root ball. Re-pot into a pot that is only slightly larger than the root ball using a very sandy potting mix, give a small drink of Seasol or ProFert and put in a spot that is well lit but out of direct sunlight. That khat is very close to being to far gone and the extra shock of re-potting may be to much for it but its worth a shot. Good luck

I experimented with Opuntia tomentosa, Velvety tree pear and it was not real good at all. A couple of serious problems with stock were that it did not like humidity at all so getting micro's to take was a bit treacherous. Another was that it randomly sealed off the union between stock and scion for no apparent reason, some just after the scion took, others 6 months down the track and every where in between. All were rejected eventually. I have a theory that this opuntia switches into dormancy mode very quickly once the roots start to go dry at which point it sacrifices the scion in favour of hording. The other main problem was it's susceptibility to cactoblastis. Most of the stocks I used had been attacked within 12 months. Looks like some opuntia are better than others.

So how did things go with the cutting? Thumbs up or thumbs down?

Looks a lot like a grahamii, just a bit less spiney.

Lost my Nexus clone over winter, not to the elements but to neglect Looking to find a replacement as it grew well at my locale despite the winters here. I now have the perfect spot for it in my garden so it won't suffer "death by pot" like the last one did. Its a beautiful plant, I miss it. A rooted cutting would be nice or some fresh leaves for cuttings would be good to. Always wanted to give leaf cuttings a crack. Not much to trade this early in the season so terms would be cash. Thanx all.

No ones dis'n Herbalistics Roopy Didn't know they were moving though. Did they move far from their previous location? I'm located only a stones throw from their previous location.