gerbil

Seed grown pach G5 G1 (below)

SS02 x Juuls Giant (Herbalistics stock) Seed grown pach G2 Pedro flowers

Probably all are what we lump under P. subaeruginosa or a similar species.

Probably Leratiomyces ceres (Stropharia aurantiaca).

ah ronny, you've moved on into another area of greatness with you photography, changed styles and solidified another, holding form true, really impressive, am still confused with the earlier on night time/day time tunnel shot. These new ones are even more impressive, has elements of a painting, real/unreal, quite a lot of character. Hope your business endeavor is treating you kindly and thanks for sharing.

oh and forgot to say, pretty cool too, nice work! No idea what JM's ones are doing as he's overseas these days, hopefully still kicking around in someones collection if not brought with him. Would be good if they survived. Do you know the origins? are they Tucunaca seed, something else or unknown?

Probably better off to cut open a mature fruit, scrape out the seeds and dry them on something like paper towel/baking paper or just on a plate, won't really be a problem with capsicum seeds sticking to paper towel like thorough cleaned wet or pulpy tomatoes, but be aware of it if they are quite wet out of the fruit and move 'em around a little in the early stages, though some people deliberately make seeds stick to towel and plant that. You can possibly do them in the fruit, but would potentially be a higher chance for them to go mouldy. I've done it in fruit with Withania seed before due to absolute abundance and couldn't be bothered processing a slurry or by hand, but there appears to be more blackened and dud seeds in those fruits, but sheer quantity and later success in germination didn't worry me, though I won't trade those ones for quarantine, respect and personal standard reasons ;) Make sure they are essentially cracker dry before storing them or they will mould.

http://www.australianethnobotany.net/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=1886 Last picture in the first post, not the clearest but characteristics can be seen, Juicemonkey had this type come out of a batch of seed a few years back, from what I interpret that one was unknown provenance, possibly Tucunaca or similar from interpreting some of the info, but am speculating. Tucunaca seed batches seemed to have quite a wide variation with some interesting horticultural gems from what I've seen around.

Only info I can find regarding glands is in the general A. mucronata description which then breaks off into the 3 (currently recognised?) subspecies descriptions with no mention of gland presence/abscence. References used are online world wide wattle and text Flora of Australia v11B. So i'd assume (assumptions are the mother of fuck ups) that yes glands would be present on all 3 subspecies. A. mucronata subsp. longifolia is presumed to hybridise with A. oxycedrus, and A. oxycedrus is presumed to hybridse with A. floribunda, so quite possibly A. mucronata subspecies could hybridise with A. floribunda. It's all very confusing, really takes complete dedication to even begin to understand acacia's and even then we are just trying to somewhat unnaturally put dynamic things in set boxes which is somewhat impossible in the broader context I guess, but can still be achieved somewhat. Variable and dynamic are good contexts to keep in mind with Acacias. (all biology too I guess). Our scientific methods are somewhat restrictive, and also limited based on information available and understood at any given time, as are more cultural classification methods, which as I understand it can have differences as well as similar grounds/overlaps. Visual botanical classification can be somewhat restrictive, just like chemotype classifications etc. One example I like to vaguely keep in mind with classifications is the situation (if i recall correctly) of the botanist in South America that I think Shulgin spoke about, where an Indian was pointing out two Cyperaceae (I think it was PiriPiri) plants of the same western botanical classification that the botanist was somewhat ignoring one as he had the other, but the Indian recognised one as medicinally useful and the other not, even though the botanist said they were the same plant and only wanted to focus on one. Confused? I am.

to take a guess, but am not really up on Capsicum taxonomy, let alone all the hybrids. 1) Capsicum annuum types, Black Pearl, should go red at maturity. Does look very soft though, could be photo, maybe golf ball type eggplants, but inkling towards black pearl. 2) C. annuum/frutescens types, Cayenne types 3) C. chinense types, Orange Habanero 4) No experience with, but looks like Pineapple sage, Salvia elegans; and no, 'fruit salad sage' afaik is Salvia dorisiana.

sab webstore, dried herbs, page 2.

cool, looks like I knew what I was doing after all Don't know about making wattles easier to ID for everyone is a good thing i've shared my views about that previously around here so won't really get into it again, but I don't think the community has really matured in any sense these days from previous years. I think it's also important to remember that if people don't financially support the work of others, future works have the potential to cease to exist let alone can screw people out of incomes they deserve, i know there have been some questionable copies of the cd version going around for many years but hopefully the people accessing them were never planning on purchasing it in the long run, though it's still quite questionable and not exactly right. I guess it's easy to manipulate media, but context it in say someone building a house or similar, i'm sure not paying at the end of the day wouldn't go down too well glad you've got it working, i'd suggest the 2 flora of australia texts (11a11b i think) as an accompaniment and good investment to further learning.

Am not overly sure what i'm doing, though you may potentially have to set the security level in the java control console to medium or high, it should then prompt you to let it run or not, it sounds like your security setting is 'very high' so it's just blocking it from running. http://www.java.com/en/download/help/jcp_security.xml My java console says version 6 update 22 and I don't have the sliding bar security levels, i think they came in 7 update 21 though in my advanced tabs, i've got things like 'allow user to grant permission...' enabled. Tried updating to the latest and did the java website check version and reckons i'm up to the v7u21. I tried to see if I could increase security to see if it'd refuse me, but my console is still saying it's the old v6 even after reset, have disabled lots of stuff and still can't get it to refuse me entry to wattle. Maybe i've created a permanent exception somewhere that i'm not disabling, though as said I never had the issue in the first place. Seems for 64 bit vista it won't update the java control panel physically even if java is up to date, a bug they are working on, so i guess i can't try the sliding scale security.

I've never had any issues with the CD version, wasn't even aware of a flash drive version. csiro website lists some flash drive help http://www.publish.csiro.au/samples/USB/usb.pdf i'd make sure you're software if fully up to date with the associated plugins, pop up blockers disabled within browsers and if still issues look at anti-virus and firewalls with the same associated things relative to the browser issue. http://www.publish.csiro.au/pid/2543.htm "NOTE: Web pages such as fact sheets attached to items in Lucid v3.5 interactive key matrices may be considered pop-ups by certain browsers (such as Internet Explorer (IE) when clicked on by users. If your browser blocks these popups, in your browser's internet settings you should allow pop-ups for this Lucid tool. Additionally, Internet Explorer may block "active content" on web pages or interactive keys. To allow active content, in Internet Explorer, under Tools, Internet Options, Advanced tab, Security category, the box next to the setting: "Allow active content to run in files on My Computer" should be checked. The Lucid3 interactive key "" will run embedded within a web browser as a Java applet. Java Runtime Environment (JRE) version 1.5 or greater must be installed on your computer for the Lucid3 Applet Player to run successfully. Java information You can install the Java Runtime Environment provided on the CD ROM found under the 'java' folder. Alternatively you can download and install the latest Java Runtime Environment version from the Java website at: http://www.java.com (free download)." Interestingly it's undergoing a revision and update, excellent! http://www.worldwidewattle.com/infogallery/publications/wattle.php http://www.worldwidewattle.com/infogallery/projects/wattle2.php

Not sure if people have realised but that's written by Archaea/Gunter who used to post here, maybe still does? He's got a 28page pdf which is pretty much the same as the linked site, but with a few bits of other information I think. I've tried to figure out where I got it from but am not getting anywhere. It's titled 'Archaea's Trichocereus Guide' in the pdf, but i've it saved as 'Archaea Trichocereus GuideV5', not sure if I renamed it or d/l it as that, it may have even been updated since the v5. He's quite humble about it and wasn't overly happy with it from memory, so possibly won't like me mentioning it. Kadakuda's site is also excellent, Kada's Garden. http://www.kadasgarden.com/ With the sister site, Cactus Culture http://kadasgarden.com/Cindex.html Lots of sections are down since mid Jan 2013 for streamlining/updating, but well worth waiting for.

It can happen very quick, this is one I posted a couple of years back. I took cuts and pretty much left it to sort itself, it ended up carving out a heap of the stem to the core, but stayed on one side and I didn't lose the plant. A combination of factors from what I interpreted, the trich was tissue damage from falling over, then I propped it back up, and rot set in. Could have been the reason for it bending in the first place, or could have come about 'cause of it. Could possibly also have been high nitrogen, and maybe it needed more potassium, grouped with heavy clay soils. I also lost large loph to trich grafts to orange rot around the same time, both stock and scion. From the notes and memory, it was fairly wet and windy at the time. http://www.shaman-australis.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=20615&page=2#entry291439 "Rot set in from tissue damage due to high winds during times of moisture." I'm getting large weeping black rot spots approx 20c piece on my in ground scop at the moment, sometimes it seems it pops up immediately after fertiliser application (this year it's been mainly chook pellets and blood and bone) but that was a fair few weeks back, though sometimes it can lag, maybe high nutrient levels and then when environmental conditions are right it hits, though oddly only a little bit showed up at the same time as the scop on some potted TBM tips (not as severe, just bubbled not weeping) but nothing on anything else, all ferted pretty much the same. The scop does get more water though as it has a tap next to it, filling buckets, washing hands etc.

No worries. But don't treat them unless you actually have the problem, you might not even have mites, but they are very common on brugs. To clarify when I go hard on my plants, they are larger specimens, not huge, but thicker stems with lots of reserve energy and have been treated harshly for years, I wouldn't be removing much if at all any foliage from yours if they are mite infested given the size of the plants. If there is a decent mite population and had to remove some foliage, i'd probably only remove the lower left medium sized leaf that is sort of cupping down (the one that's potentially showing the potential root zone/water issue) as that potentially looks like it could be the greater infested one, you'll see it by small white sorta 'dot's' all over the leaf, and on underside you'll find very thin webs with tiny tiny pin pricks moving about. I'd be more inclined to give them a sponge bath, and if needed a light spray. But figure out if it's insects, overwatering/soil issue or both before taking action. I'd probably also stop constant seasol applications if that's what you've been doing, less is more and it's easy to get caught up in the fertiliser/tonic hardware store hype creating out of whack pH or highly salty soils, i'm still trying to re-educate myself and break bad habits from poor advice and pathetic gardening shows lol have a good one.

When my brugs get really bad, I usually just hack them up, cut back the tips and remove the infested foliage, improve the soil and growing environment. From memory mites like a dry hot environment, so reducing drying winds, and giving the foliage a hose down can be beneficial. Knocking them off with a hose is good, and then giving them a mist with a hose fogger nozzle is good too, but if the environment is conducive, they will be back in force and it's not really feasible to be hosing the shit out of them constantly, that's not my sort of gardening, but appropriate in context. Have never really treated them with anything, but if I have had pressing mite issues on plants i've very rarely used yates natrasoap, which is potassium salts of fatty acids from memory. There are lots of organic, natural options these days with things like white oils, neems etc which i have no experience with and should be researched to determine the appropriateness for a given insect. I avoid spraying as much as possible and work on the soil, overall plant robustness and growing environment.

It's hard to tell from the photo, but it does look like you potentially have spider mite, but it could just be the grainy nature of the photo. Seasol isn't really a fertiliser, it's generally referred by people as a soil tonic or amendment, they flog it with their nutrient powerfeed, not to say you need to use powerfeed, but if you are only using seasol, you will need to add some sort of nutrients in whatever form suits your needs and growing style, chook pellets, blood and bone, composts, manures etc. Brugs can be very heavy feeders. http://www.seasol.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=29&Itemid=118 I think you could possibly be overwatering, tip dieback is a common symptom as are leaves drooping down, but it's not like a dehydrated droop, more of a rigid droop with washed out looking leaves with most green sitting the main growth tips and axillary shoots, your bottom one seems to be displaying this, as is common starting from the base up. again, it's hard to tell from the picture, but your plant does look quite washed out (hungry), it can be from overwatering causing lack of nutrient uptake/root damage/flushing of nutrient from the medium, or possibly lack of nutrient in the medium from simply using it up or a combo of the lot. Brugs do love water as has been mentioned, though it is a small plant and a small pot, so you are possibly keeping it too wet and starving the roots of oxygen. From what i've heard it's been really hot in WA lately so it's possible you aren't getting good enough wet/dry cycles for root development, not that you want brugs to dry out, but you don't want it anaerobic and sopping wet all the time, and a small pot and high temps can cause poor root development from the need of constant heavy watering. Brugs are very prone to pests, though it can also be correlated with sick plants, improve root health to improve above ground health which should reduce pest issues, be careful with feeding too heavy as this can also create weak plants even though they are vigorous and 'healthy'. If they are being done by snails and slugs (which I assume why you've got the pellets) you can use alternates like physical barriers of sawdust, copper, horticultural grade diatomaceous earth. For leaf munching fellas there are things like bacterial sprays like dipel but i think success has replaced that these days. If you want to use chems or biological / organic options, do your research and decide what you think is best, but they are best minimised in all cases, working on healthy roots and ecosystem is the primary focus, chems/biological natural or not can still kill beneficial insects, fungi etc.

More than likely it is Solanum mauritianum, especially given it is in Melbourne (which is the information given at davesgarden). It would be highly likely there is a large Solanum mauritianum present next door or nearby, and if not there is a strong potential it will be coming from a relatively local or further off watercourse via birds etc. which in Melbourne we are all well in proximity to. I think you are getting confused by searching 'native tobacco'. Nicotiana occidentalis is not the one and only 'native tobacco' it's a common name and common names really mean zilch, 'native tobacco' can be any species of native Nicotiana, or any other species, native or not, dubbed 'native tobacco' even if they are not Nicotiana. Victoria/Melbourne is jammed with S. mauritianum, and even on the 'native tobacco' front of true Nicotiana species, we have indigenous species present like Nicotiana suaveolens in melbourne. (this is not N. suaveolens) If you whack the first suggestion of 'native tobacco bush' into google, first hits are S. mauritianum. I primarily know it as tree tobacco and the first time I have heard it called Native Tobacco Bush is from Space Cadet 101's post. Given google spits out S. mauritianum, it seems a lot of people widely call it this. Common names are confusing, and if possble it is always better to use the proper botanical listing. From the diagnostic features I can barely make out from the fairly non-descript photo, hairy apical stems, characteristic axillary shoots, i'd go with the multiple suggestions of the multiple common names in this thread and ID it as S. mauritianum. Not to say it definitely is that, but i'd put most of my time into looking at that species. 'as far as i can tell the leaves aren't hairy so i'm thinking brug too!' To ID it, you need to actually take into account the actual physical characteristics, 'as far as i can tell' isn't really appropriate for ID :D (not trying to be a smart arse) edit: and brugs in my limited experience have different stem/leaf hairs to S. mauritianum, the brugs are more like persistant hairs that are hard to rub off whereas the latter will be more of a noxious powder coating easily rubbed off. Without going into taxonomic descriptions, maybe try that.

The closest i'm getting is Gymnopilus sapineus. that's an old pine, yeah?

Yep, always had good reliable honest service from Herbalistics, with high qualtiy plants. Can't really confirm or deny what they are based on h'stics selling a variety of trichs. If you bought one of their listings as pachanoi, then that's what it'd be. (in context to whatever a 'pachanoi' actually is, i.e. people calling what is dubbed the predominate cultivar (PC) a pachanoi, where the ecuadorian pachanoi is more so recognised as the real 'pachanoi'. afaik.) Their current listings of 'pachanoi' have two seperate clones, one as 'el pedro' one as 'san pedro'. Both essentially clone lines of what are traded as collective 'pachanoi' around the world.

can't guarantee, but can probably dig you up a narrow leaf sucker, else can try some tip cuts but I suck getting khat to strike. They are water/heat stressed at the moment, so will try for a sucker if the rains kick in over the next few days.