mcgrath111

Ah cheers, guess I'll be waiting a few more years haha

Hey mate, how many years did yours take to flower?

Wait a couple of months and some should appear. You'll probably have more luck on Facebook on trichocereus auctions Australia, normally appear there.

Liam is back, https://amp.abc.net.au/article/102479800

After ario seed, any variety, wanting to graft some monsters. Have various ethno plants to trade or cash. Pm me. Cheers,

Yeah mate, I'm keen!

Might be able to help, having trouble with pm atm.

Hi all, I love to graft and grow mutants. However, my ario grafts have a 10-20% success rate, and I can't identify why. https://imgur.com/gallery/6t5KgOi I've tried two methods: 1. If large enough, I put ario seedling onto fresh pere tip and hold onto pere with gladwrap and rubber band. (I've used parafilm before, yet, for me it is hard to align for arios. Normally about a week and then I remove elastic bands/cling film. (Is this too soon to remove for arios? Should it be held down longer?) 2. Humidity chamber. I think this is the go to, yet I'm wondering if I have things too humid, which is causing rot etc. I've provided a photo link above, as the arios appear to be on the vascular bundle, yet many just die over a few weeks. I've trawled through loads of older posts such as peyofox and other grafting threads/ teos book etc. Yet I can figure out why my success rate is soo darn low! My blades are always brand new, so I don't think the issue is a sharp cut. I think it's something to do with the conditions post graft. Any suggestions or what has "uped" your graft game? Many thanks, Mcgrathh

Thanks False peyote, have you tried tbis technique for arios? I was thinking that they might be too small to stab? But I'll have to look into this method further.

An update, I've spoken to an experienced grower who reccomends grafting onto pere WITHOUT roots. Similarly, they shared Humboldts opinion that it should be kept about 10-12 days in a humidity chamber. I'll see how this goes and keep people posted in case someone else down the track finds grafting arios difficult. -Mcgrath

Ah awesome, that must be where I'm going wrong. I'll seed how keeping them in humidity /held down for longer works. Cheers mate!

Hey mate, red or green?

.

It depends on so many different factors. How, depends on he shape the button has taken. Big clusters generally need to be slowly separated and cut off with a sanitised blade. Removing stock on a trich is relatively easy, compared to removing from an established lw graft on pere. As to when, - Why did you graft in the first place? Seeds? Pups? - Is the stock old/ no longer putting out desire growth. - Has the button begun taking a form you don't like? If I had a big single head lw graft I would degraft, yet mine are all massive clusters and imo there would be no point degrafting,

Bit late to the party, but that x is amazing!

Agree with Boof. Ordered something from the same name (on reddit). All 3 things were bunk and unfit for microscopy.

Jumping on the bandwagon here. If anyone has seed, please pm! Thank you

A great print to look at.

Hi all, I have a fair few grafted lophs, and room in the greenhouse is tight. Last summer I had a big lw graft rot (orange rot I believe). Would this due to constant rain / cold temps or more likely a fungus has spread into the loph? (The stock was fine) Any people in Melbourne (or cool areas with high rainfall? that keep grafted lophs out in the elements? Cheers,

Thanks Fyzygy and Humboldt for your insights. I didn't realise the impact sun would have on the graft, I figured more the merrier. I've put a paste / coat of copper oxychloride on the lw grafts, hopefully that keeps rot at bay.

Hey fyzygy, Thank you for your response, I realise looking at old posts I never responded. Are you saying you keep your grafts outside during winter (not indoors?)...how so pere grafts take that? Cheers,

Hi all, Wanting to buy or trade for some ario seed. Cheers,

NIL if you have some more, look like fun to grow

Hey mate, guess I'm the winner?