fyzygy

These particular seedlings dislike humidity. Risk of damping off, especially first 7 to 10 days. I was going to advise against the use of peat Jiffy pellets, but the trick is to ensure that they dry out between waterings. I've got mine indoors, on a warming mat. These are the strongest contenders so far. I think I killed some previous by overwatering. Any free-draining mix would probably also work, if not even better. My seeds from UK supplier arrived with a generic note advising: remove from humidity dome at first signs of germination. Good advice, I reckon (I was skeptical at first). Still, only about 50% germination rate for me. I didn't soak any of the seeds prior (had intended to, by way of experiment, but concluded the soaking wasn't a good idea for this variety, given its aversion to humidity). Look forward to hear other gardener's reports.

Trichocereus scopulicola - always hard to tell from a picture, especially the size of those spines/aureoles. Trichocereus cordobensis would be my second guess.

Probably a safe bet. Huge variety of poppies growing around Melbourne suburbs. Just like San Pedro (which is even known to appear in public gardens around Melbourne). Can anyone point to any Australian law or regulation which clearly states that San Pedro is legal for ornamental purposes? If even Bunnings sells San Pedro, and organic grocery stores sell various poppy seed varieties, I'd say these are far from illegal to grow. Extraction of the active alkaloids would be a different matter entirely.

https://theconversation.com/an-entirely-new-illicit-drug-has-been-discovered-by-australian-chemists-heres-how-they-did-it-192855 CanKet, or Canberra Ketamine.

Whatever was there was real, quite pure, and neither ketamine nor 2-FDCK.

Herbs & Natural Supplements: An Evidence-Based Guide 4E

Ladybug on Acacia phlebophylla phyllode. Still there an hour or so later, too, having relocated to a nearby phyllode. Not a lot of movement.

I have seen pictures in natural habitat, of peyote buttons almost flush with the surrounding soil level -- they seem to enjoy being surrounded by sediment. Each year I repot my mother, I remove some pups, and usually allow the repotted "trunk" to stand bare above the soil line while wounds dry out. I may then backfill with a top dressing, at some point, optionally. I don't think the plant minds either way. But ... look to nature. I don't think the plant needs external support to stand. But it might enjoy the insulation, camouflage or other benefit provided by higher soil level.

Anyone here have seeds or viable cutting?

Good to know and keep an eye out for. The disease question is serious. I wouldn't use either rootstock or scion that showed signs of disease. That said, for my last "no-fuss" experiments, I must confess to picking up pieces of prickly pear out of bluestone gutters in the back alleys of Brunswick. No disease issues so far. Touch ... wood? I did lose one of the rootstocks that rotted in the recent rains (I completely forgot I'd left it out in the garden until it was too late). Insufficiently calloused wounds, I dare say. The buttons were okay to be regrafted. My first Opuntia graft was about 5 years ago, T. bridgesii to O. bunny years, and it didn't develop any disease (I degrafted it about a year ago). In the Opuntia grafting guide resource above, the gardener does a much more professional job of things, including the photography. One trick I learned from it, was how to get (at least) 4 grafts out of 1 seedling ...

https://podcasts.apple.com/gb/podcast/psychedelic-research-balancing-trippyness-with-a/id1550643487?i=1000581020441 Featuring some Australian contributors.

What's the postal address for donations?

There could be traces of mescaline from the prickly pear. You'd need to drink a lot, fast. The packaging looks better after a couple of drinks.

https://www.samwoolfe.com/2022/10/book-review-the-psychedelic-handbook-by-rick-strassman.html and the book in question: https://b-ok.global/book/22440502/d8b620

And a few recent experiments of my own. Two buttons closest together was my first -- those two buttons were practically kissing, and I thought they might push one another off the rootstock. Smart plant, it's actually increased the gap between them. Opuntia doesn't seem to care where the button is placed (anywhere on the cut surface seems to do?). And it's super-vigorous. Buttons grafted to opuntia might not hold their shape well, it seems. I've tried with both rooted and unrooted opuntia slabs. I've not had a graft rejected, so far. Three days under cling wrap with moderate pressure (high internal humidity), then it's pretty much ready for acclimatisation. Spineless opuntia is my rootstock of choice, for obvious reasons. But any old opuntia will do -- I've even used rabbit ears (ouch!). These pictures are all of grafts approx. 1-3 weeks old. Each one took less than 5 minutes to execute, with minimal sanitisation of tools and workspace (I used freshly boiled water on the knife). Only time will tell, I guess.

Looking for viable seed.

Enjaytee's progress got me wondering about salvia crosses, e.g. divinorum x recognita this page has some info on pollinating salvias: https://salvia-hybrids.blogspot.com/2014/11/how-to-hybridize-salvias.html

I can envision a few scenarios. For example, our local council often cuts down an old or dying acacia, leaving behind the roots. Similarly, acacias die all the time in the bush, arguably these may require some kind of cleaning up (to prevent excessive fire loads etc.). There is also the example of an invasive exotic Acacia that may need to be cleared out to preserve native habitat and ecosystem integrity. A lot hinges on one's definition of sustainability, and the kind of economies of scale OP has in mind.