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The Corroboree


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Showing content with the highest reputation since 27/04/22 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    A friend came back from a hike in Tambourine and asked me to ID a group of mushrooms he had picked, all blueing on the stalks. Prints and my own experience identified P. Subaeruginosa which until now, I had only found growing on similar adventures in Oberon and near wollongong in NSW. I did not expect to find them in qld which is where I have relocated from Bathurst (a close point if reference for subs this time of year). These are easily my favourite Psilocybe, and I am wondering if anyone from South East QLD has discovered these or any other actives during these cooler months as psilocybes are a large part of my personal and spiritual practice and due to the nature of my recent move I have much less available than usual. Thank you
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    Behold these healthy tricho seedlings for sale. $6 each or five for $25. Excludes postage. HB07 (ignore that imposter on the left) HB07 x (JG X TP X SS02) Helon x MSS (Scop) Hulk x Yowie Santaensis x Pumacayan Why bother with seeds? Let me do the hard work for youuuu.
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    We are finally back on track with Catha strains after a few hiccups (no comment) .... they sell quick but a few Pinks AKA Vienna White are available at the moment. Most exciting news is the Nursery is OPEN to visitors next week - 2nd to 5th May https://www.facebook.com/groups/232618545864/permalink/10159640031095865 I am also trying to put together a database of Trichocereus clone's ie origin, traits, who named and why etc. Please contact me if you have any valid CORRECT information that may be useful. Can email me at [email protected] Cheers. Linda
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    Does this mean the one I paid for in March last year is in the mail? Be wary people...
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    PH - Those pinks are cutting grown from plants sourced directly from you PH. Still the same trees as 15 or so years ago. Colours vary throughout the year. In summer they have hardly any red, but later in the season they are quite red (at least around here). These are propagated by a very different method to what we normally use which could also account for some extra colour. The difference is easy to see in mature plants. Oncewhywechnage, I actually can't remember what happened to PH2 but it appears we don't have this in the collection anymore.
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    hi, lou! the cathas in the pic, are what we call the red strain. i named the vienna white, the planthelper, and started calling some x pollinated strains pinks. the red strain originated from wa, and the property owner of one of those trees in wa, became even a member here for a while. he found sab, because he investigated why some people, tresspassed his garden and kept pruning his red catha. the vienna white, comes from the university botanical gardens in vienna, it was sourced originally, from yemen. the narrow leaved, comes from trees in the royal botanical gardens sydney, and a tree in tarango zoo. rumours say it was confiscated by the border patrol. the plant helper is a x cross between a narrow leaved and a vienna white, it displays good hybreed vigor. once all those plants got established, many cross polinated seeds got produced and traded. the pinks are one of those open pollinated breeds. there are as well, narrow leaved semi reds, and planthelper pinks and many intermidiates. yemen bosts, to have hundreds of different strains. we got as well at some stage seeds from south africa, but some description of his seeds were incorrect.... hope that helps. broad leaved qat makes an easy cutting, narrow leaved qat, does not strike well from cuttings, but produces suckers. those suckers can be used, to produce easy cuttings as well. but once the narrow leaved plant stops producing leaves in a spiral fashion, the abilety to take cuttings from those plants diminishes. if you start of with a nl sucker, and often take cuttigs from it, this action will slow down the aging process to some degree. madragora took cuttings of mature narroleaved plants, where a young side shoot is formed, and had good success, but she was an above average probagator. if you want manny nl's you might just propagate from seed. if there are many other cathas around, than some to all seedlings could be cross pollinated. so choose narrow leaved seeds from an isolated tree.
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    I've got seeds from my trees if you want a few. No cost. Or I might have a few small saplings I could part with for a nominal cost.
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    I have a creek with regenerated bush either side right next to where I live, so it's close. There's plenty of shade so the ground stays moist through summer. And it's topped up with chips and branches by local bushcare so I don't need to maintain it myself. Also, it's nice to share. My home patch is great, but if I ever leave my house behind, I have a public spot I can go check.
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    Nobody lives, nobody dies Until she opens up her eyes, She is the Sun she is the Moon, My desert flower, my superbloom. ( the bronx - again)
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    Thank you for waiting; we appreciate your patience and will be with you as soon as possible - CBA Hold message.
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    Don't come to pieces in my hand White stars reflecting dust and sand That perfume makes me think of grief Shake the faith shake the belief Who's there to say that we're living this moment Feels like I'm in a play The sets and the props of this, your apartment Seem to be fading away, fading away So I wander through these rooms I feel the orbit of the moons And I dream what I become And all's forgotten by the sun (Steve Kilbey)
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    Congrats on your first attempt. I sincerely hope it takes for you. Now, I do have glasses and even then my prescription ran out so I may not be seeing things correctly. With that said, it looks like there is water pooling up from your Pereskiopsis which could cause your graft not to take especially so if this was the first day... you say day 5... so probably not an issue at all, but I thought I'd point it out nonetheless. It is really hard to gauge as you also use high humidity which is exactly what I use as well when I'm not using parafilm. So, please, do not get alarmed. I'm more or less using your picture as a guide to point out some problems which could occur with a graft of this type and your picture seems to show some of the warning signs I look for on day 1... not necessarily day 5. I also see some browning at the callous or union point which is a good thing to see with an open air style graft in my opinion as it indicates that the liquid atop the graft is probably more likely from the air and not the union site itself even though that is where it has collected. Too much water pushing up from the Pereskiopsis itself can cause and has caused a few of my own attempts to graft to float off during day 1-2 mostly. This is why I will not water a Pereskiopsis a few days to even a week prior to grafting if I am not using parafilm or weight to hold my scion/seedling secure. Similarly, I will not water this style graft without parafilm or weight for a week after the graft is made. If I use parafilm, I'll water the whole time before and after. Great method you have chosen by the way, I've seen some expert grafters using that technique come up with 95% of their grafts taking on a frequent enough basis to say it is definitely a worthwhile approach and it saves time over using parafilm. The biggest downsides to this method for me however is simply having to remember not to water the soil directly before and after, not being able to be reckless and bump your grafts, and of course the added need for some good humidity. This graft by the way and the setup I see... much better than my first attempts as I lost quite a few to overwatering and or not enough humidity. Luckily for me, in the summer the humidity is generally high enough were I have lived to allow me to graft without the use of humidity domes and the like. I still like to use them though with this method as they keep air currents from blowing on my grafts which can dry out and knock off the grafts as well. Thanks for sharing your first attempt with us. It really looks like you've done your homework. While I admit I get overly excited seeing my own seedlings pop up as I know it means grafting time is soon upon us, I get more excited to see the work of those who are doing things for the first time. It also means you will soon be an expert cacti grafter and will soon realize there really is not much skill at all involved in grafting. At least not much more than that compared to riding a bicycle. Sure, you need practice and frequent practice every few days to a week is best when starting out in my opinion, but once you get the swing of it your going to be in grafting mode. The addiction will take over and you will find yourself always looking for more seed to graft.
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    sure it works. believe me. not showing photos. wanted to keep it a secret but werts secrets out now. this is how I get basketball size lophs.