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Meet is on next Saturday at 12pm hope to see you all there
- Last week
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It depends on so many different factors. How, depends on he shape the button has taken. Big clusters generally need to be slowly separated and cut off with a sanitised blade. Removing stock on a trich is relatively easy, compared to removing from an established lw graft on pere. As to when, - Why did you graft in the first place? Seeds? Pups? - Is the stock old/ no longer putting out desire growth. - Has the button begun taking a form you don't like? If I had a big single head lw graft I would degraft, yet mine are all massive clusters and imo there would be no point degrafting,
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Hey RC and fellow shroomers Have you found the season bad for cubes? We did a bit of travelling today without luck the other day only a small lot of tiny cubes.
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No blue. No fibrils. No veil remnant. (No dark purple spores). Looks more like a Cortinarius to me.
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Found these near gulgong nsw , open forest, underneath ironbarks and white skin euc, growing in grass intertwined small branches and twigs, they sort of remind me of subaeruginosa but not quite hence, so could it be p.eucalypta?
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Plant Spirit Summit (online event)
fyzygy posted a topic in Sustainable Technologies & Ethical Living
https://plantspiritsummit.com May 23 - 29, options for free/paid participation. -
LOL, Good stuff Boof! You've earned yourself have a top reputation here and we're with you all the way. It's all too easy to get scammed these days, and we all have to make a stand whenever it rears it's ugly head.
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So the cutting I purchased 14 months ago arrived yesterday, mailed after the post I made above, which I made after the seller created a new ad to sell more cuttings. So it turned up, better late than never. Thought I better acknowledge that. I also need to acknowledge that it took 14 months to get here, commitments made by the seller by way of update weren't met, I had to initiate all communications to obtain updates and some of my attempts at follow up went unanswered. OP - In relation to the illogical DM you sent me following my above post, if you truly believe you are the aggrieved party in this, then we occupy different realities. Thanks for eventually making good though!
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Looking for advice on how to transfer spores to a syringe. Any tips would be appreciated
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Fellow Myconauts - I'm looking to make contact with anyone who provides spore syringes. Any assistance would be appreciated
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Driving along Port Melbourne foreshore, saw a MASSIVE council sign warning against tree vandals, who had evidently been active in the area. Probably the culprits were established residents seeking to preserve their waterfront views ... https://theconversation.com/acts-of-arborial-violence-tree-vandals-deprive-us-all-41342
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you work very hard here, and once you posted something like, "i wished we could get this".
now i would like to send you a gift, but you have to tell me about your location and setups.
the plant you would like is a fuzzy grower, and almost impossible to grow in a pot (i had one for 7 years in a pot and it died)
and it can only survive mild frosts.
reply me with your postal,
and please never reveal me as a source.
if you have bottom heat, i could send you seeds as well.
have a good one,
wolfgang
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I can give you Centella asiatica [1] (what I was sold as C. asiatica) and what I think is Centella cordifolia (Swamp pennywort) [2] Let me know if they're suitable 1. 2.
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Ephedra sp. cultivation notes and discussion
withdrawl clinic replied to sagiXsagi's topic in Ethnobotany
i think, one can't give advice to ephedras in general, as they come from very different latitudes and climatic zones because of elevation. some grow in the desert, like nevandesis. some high up in the alps like helvetia. some grow close to the seashores. asking, 'might a saucer help', could be answered with yes, for some plants, under some circumstances and no for others. many ephedras i did grow at my location died, either because, they did not like the extreem heat, or it was not cold enough for them. sagi's location allows many ephedras to flourish, whilst mine favors only a few. one thing is for sure, they all like good drainage, and can die after heavy rain causes water to remain in a spot. those ephedras grew the fastes in my garden, but monsoonal rains killed them after 5 years. btw, the university botanical garden in vienna has some minimas which set seed regularly, they got as well a helvetia (sorry to use this term) but i never seen fruit on it. ephedras are living fossils, and even more special than ginko biloba, we can learn a lot about evolution when studying ephedras. WE NEED TO PROTECT THOSE EPHEDRAS, EVEN IF THE LAWS SAY WE HAVE TO DESTROY THEM. FUTURE GENERATIONS WILL HAIL OUR FORSIGHT!!! i don't think fragilis and major are the same. my 2m tall big plants are maybe 16-17 years old and at least one of them came from some seeds torsten did sell via his shop. a very good methode to get an idea about ephedras is to taste them. i once did this at kew gardens, which do have a very big ephedra collection, you can test, one ephedra sample every 15 min or so. take a few stalks and chew them thorougly, watch out for taste sensation and effects. i believe that ephedra alkaloids have never been investigated in detail, and many surprises and discoveries will be made by future genarations. i suffer from hayfever and globus sensation, ephedrin is only one of very few substances that can help me. unfortunately the tga and lawmakers, don't care if ther restrictions of ephedrin, causes me suffering. they believe the alternatives are even better, but they ar useless for me. if you suffer from a condition where ephedrin is the best, than good luck of recieving help. all doctors get brain washed by the pharmas, and are delusional when it comes to many drugs. they think, IF IT CAN BE A DRUG THAT CAN GET ABUSED, IT HAS TO BE A BAD DRUG!! THOSE IDIOTS. EDUCATE, DON'T MAKIE IT ILLEGAL!! I DON'T USE EPHEDRIN OFTEN, DON'T EVEN LIKE IT, AS IT GIVES ME AT TIMES TRACHYCARDIA. I AM LOOKING FOR EPHEDRA SINICA SEEDS, I HAD A GOOD SIZE PLANT, BUT RAN THE MOWER OVER IT, and it did not come back. -
Hey Melbourne folks - APS needs some capable, reliable and knowledgeable crew to rebuild the chapter there. https://www.psychedelicsociety.org.au/articles/volunteer-position-melbourne-chapter-lead
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I do have experience with the air still. The air still will produce an end result of around 60% ABV. Traditionally you collect the first 700-800ml after which the quality of the product drops off very quickly. You then water it down to 1 - 1.25 litre at 40% abv. They are designed to not produce methanol at the start so seperating heads, body and tails is not necessary with the air still. Although for your purposes the "heads" of the process will be a much higher percentage ABV... Probably in the 90s. I couldn't tell you the volume you would get at that ABV though, my guess would be maybe 100ml, but that really is just a guess and would have to be experimented with. The way a still works for alcohol is based on the fact that alcohol boils and evaporates at a lower temperature than water. 80°c for ethanol and 100°c for water. So as the still heats up the ethanol evaporates and comes out first (along with some methanol, but not in the air still). The other thing is, based on preference but very much suggested, is that the alcohol then needs to be filtered through charcoal. The air still comes with a kit to do this but the kit only works for alcohol at 40% or below. The answer in the end is that the air still can be used for your purposes but it isn't the ideal product for it. I get that it is half the price of a bigger, better still but if very high ABV alcohol for tinctures is all you want you should probably get a real still. The air still is basically the "distilling for dummies" tool, which isn't to knock it because it is actually a good product. But it's really only made for one thing and that is to make a 40% ABV neutral spirit. Getting anything else out of it will be going against the recommendations of what it is for and is up to you. If you do decide it is what you want to use then here are the tips I will give you. Use turbo yeast packets, they are the best for your purposes and also contain nutrients for the yeast. Use 100% dextrose if you can. It produces a much smoother end result than other sugars and is 100% fermentable meaning if all goes right it will be totally gone at the end of fermentation and no lingering bits will hang around effecting the taste. Other sugars don't completely disappear like dextrose does. Although if you want to save money and don't care as much about any of that, then just bags of sugar from Coles work too. Add liquid charcoal to your fermenter. It will keep the fermentation process from getting contaminated and is easy enough to remove at the end of the process when you add your clearing agents. Degas the brew thoroughly before distilling. Think of how fizzy a bottle of coke is, that is about as carbonated as your brew is going to be. The goal is basically to make that bottle of coke go flat. People stir the crap out of it for as long as they can to get all the bubbles out, this process is a pain in the ass. I prefer to put a second fermenter under the other one and turn the tap so it all comes pouring out from one into the other. As the brew lands in the second container it will de-gas little by little. Just repeat the process over and over. It will take just as long but is easier than stirring with a stick. You can get away with not completely getting every last bubble out when it comes to the air still. But it is dangerous to try and distil carbonated brew in any still. There are little ceramic things you throw in the bottom of the still which help break up any bubbles and "distilling conditioner" that will do the same. These are what make it not so bad to half ass the degassing a touch. I still wouldn't recommend it though, bubbles can lead to booms. You will read the instructions to the still anyway so I am not going to go through every step. Just remember when you turn it off at the end DO NOT open it straight up. Leave it for a full day to cool down and it really will take that long. This slows down the process a fair bit since it takes 4 litres at a time so you have to 5-6 runs for one 23 litre fermenter worth (other stills will do the whole thing in one run). But don't risk opening it up early, severe burns can happen. Apart from that, the thing is pretty safe to use compared to other stills. It has an automatic killswitch that prevents it from running while dry. And the top of it provides enough of a seal to do the job, but not enough to create a bomb. Plus there is no flames needed which can be dodgy around alcohol vapours. But yeah dude, that is all I can think to add on the air still, ask if you want to know anything specific.
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Price drop on Alicia's... turns out we are just too good at propping them here at SAB Nursery
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Hey RC, hope you've been well brother. PsillySimon it's great to hear someone talking about south east QLD subs again. I have not been hunting in down that way for at least 4 years now but when I lived there I had found two fairly reliable patches where I could find subs in the colder months. They were up in the mountains where the night time temperature would fall below 10 degrees. I hope you keep finding these treasures, please keeps us updated on your adventures.. Ps.. I love photos........ People always want proof of seQLD subs lol.. Cheers Jox..
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Seeds gifted by the wonderful Cactilicious. Here are the young seedlings, about 1-2 cm. For trade or giveaway. Is it saguaro? Looking pretty big.
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How/when/when not to de-graft a button from its tricho (etc.) root stock ... ?
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https://www.openarms.gov.au Counselling service for veterans and their family members.
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I have a PC Pach that is about 10 years old, approx 4 meters high and been cut back to the base a couple of times. I just noticed spines between half an inch and a inch long for the first 12 inches from the base, with the rest of the plant having short spines, is this normal.
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At the time no record swayed me. Lifeline 131114
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