strangebrew Posted August 2, 2005 In 'Succulents:propagation', the latest book on growing succulents by Attila Kapitany & Rudolf Schulz they have a couple of pages about meristem drilling. They recommend at least an 8mm drill-bit be used and to drill down 4cm. If the plant is sheltered or kept dry no sealant should be needed. They had a few pictures of succulents that don't off-set very often such as Agave filifera, Euphorbia horrida and 'Golden-barrels' to which this had been done and it was working well. I think it was Kapitany who along with his brothers set up Paradisia/Collector's Corner/Garden World and made a squillion, so he should know. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
genki Posted October 11, 2005 i am interested in giving this a go but an 8mm drill bit sounds like an awfully big hole to be putting in the top of one of my babies. has anyone done this? will a smaller hole suffice? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jasemateau Posted October 11, 2005 dont know if i got it right i only went down about 1cm, this was my result. i did make when watering i had a touch of funguscide in it incase i got some water in the hole. enjoy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
reshroomED Posted October 11, 2005 Not quite apical meristem drilling, but I see a fair bit of snail/slug damage. The two larger wounds below are 15mm x 15mm x 15mm and 5mm - 9mm deep. Can't say that I've noticed any induced pupping from such damage on large, established cactii (bridgesii and pachanois) anyway. That being said I've a spiny single-column spachianus-looking thing that breaks under it's own weight when flowering. The break-points usually sprout two to four pups, and the flower-buds form in a rosette around the top of the plant, making me think it a more likely candidate for such an experiment. Still a bit cold here, but if anyone's interested in the project and reminds me in a month or so I'll drill a couple and see what happens. ed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mescalito Posted October 11, 2005 So what's the point exactly? wouldn't it be better to lop the top transplant it and let the mother pup anyway or am I having a blonde moment (I am blonde so don't get offended...not that I have much hair atm) Do you maybe get one pup per rib this way? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
reshroomED Posted October 11, 2005 Should have mentioned that the spach-thing rarely sets pups of its own accord. Replanting the top just sees the same process repeat itself. Why? If I could produce pups on a 1' cutting, then repeat, the cactus would become more bush-like, as opposed to single columns, without the 'chopped' look. But that's just conjecture, really only offerred as I've enough to experiment on. ed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gunter Posted October 11, 2005 I have noticed certain fertilizers and strains when combined seem to make for somewhat bush plants. A 15:30:15 and vigorous hybrid seedlings seems to do the trick. I wish I knew more about the chemical "mechanics" of it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
genki Posted October 12, 2005 So what's the point exactly? wouldn't it be better to lop the top transplant it and let the mother pup anyway or am I having a blonde moment (I am blonde so don't get offended...not that I have much hair atm) Do you maybe get one pup per rib this way? im under the impression that it stops the main column from growing so it spends all its time producing pups. at least this is what im hoping will happen Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
occidentalis Posted October 12, 2005 im under the impression that it stops the main column from growing so it spends all its time producing pups. at least this is what im hoping will happen Yes, but the reason this method is preferable to just lopping the top off is that it doesn't stop your cactus from looking pretty if it's a special specimen. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
faslimy Posted October 12, 2005 well if it was a special specimen I don't see why anyone would want to essentially kill the tip when it could be propagated the normal way but then not everyone likes to propagate like some of us obsessive growers . I see this method as being useful for thin/top heavy seedlings or plants that don't usually offset and have a tip that cant simply be cut off. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
genki Posted October 12, 2005 i took a drill to one of mine about 45mins ago. i expected the hole to look a lot bigger but its actually not that noticable unless your staring straight down at it. two questions: 1. what sort of time frame am i looking at before it starts to pup? its was labled as a pach when i bought it but im fairly sure its a scop 2. aside from keeping clear of water, what sort of precautions do i need to take to avoid rot/infection at the top? thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
strangebrew Posted October 12, 2005 Give it some sunlight and just let it dry out. If you're in a wettish area and it's going to be left outside consider putting some sealant in the tip after it's dry. As for time frame - who knows? Anytime in the next few months I expect. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nuts and BoltS Posted October 12, 2005 This was demonstrated on t.v on long ago on them lifestyle /garden shows on a golden barrel a very sizeable drill was use and looked quiet savage but apparently works? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
teonanacatl Posted October 12, 2005 i tried this ages ago, pretty much everyone has said everything. not really worth it as you get a tip that no longer grows and only a few pups, if you want pups water heaps coming out of winter. all my plants pup on the spot at 30cm, som a little bigger and some smaller, though no scops have pupped. and they all srpout 2-3 pups, definetly better then drilling the tip. the specimum i drilled looks interesting thought:) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rev Posted October 12, 2005 I have noticed certain fertilizers and strains when combined seem to make for somewhat bush plants. A 15:30:15 and vigorous hybrid seedlings seems to do the trick. I wish I knew more about the chemical "mechanics" of it. yeah i have that too using diff compost sources i get single stem or multiple pupping - pot in 50% compost and 50% riversand and i get it mixed up by the trailerload at a local landscapers must be fert ratio thing Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
whiterasta Posted October 12, 2005 I've gotten the most pupping when I use Ascophytum nodosum in my mix @ ~.02% (coir based mix with perlite and nutritional amendments+25% lava rock). I am pretty sure about the Ascophytum being the catalyst by the performance compared to straight mix. I would sure like to see others try it and see if it actually increases pupping or if I am simply getting an nutrient missing from my soil As for meristem drilling, unless you want to do a graft Why not just cut the tip of the meristem and regraft it on a Myrtylocactus? It will pup from the cut tip and also from the graft. I've got a couple tip grafts on that I will post later today. IMHO without a scion in the hole, drilling leaves an excellent harbor for moisture,dirt and insects and is not as effective at pupping as cutting off a small portion of the tip and grafting it also for additional plants as it grows and pups too. WR Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gunter Posted October 12, 2005 I have used a fert with ascophytum extract for about a year. I still have some and it was effective but I could not dicern any major difference in my cacti. I suspect it is good, and perhaps I should time the spraying for when the stomata are open, and use a surfactant? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
willbe Posted October 16, 2005 check out this pupping action... Shitty pic but theres 8 pups in all. P.S How do I attach the image as a thumbnail? I bet the answers staring me right in the face... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
