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The Surfing Thread


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#1 Uncle. S

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Posted 03 July 2009 - 01:49 PM

Hey folks, I have noticed a few members on here are surfers, so I thought we could have a thread about surfing, as I can never talk enough about this topic and assume your all the same :P . So share your adventures! Does anyone here use plants to make an average day more memorable? I have a bland imagination but find one or two cones (i rarely smoke) allow me to relive my best waves in vivid detail.

Please share you stories and advice!
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#2 bℓσωηG

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Posted 03 July 2009 - 02:04 PM

Attached File  Picture_017.jpg   10.88KB   14 downloadsI started surfing through smoking ,or was it ...started smoking through surfing, i cant remember. But i gave up needing cones to surf and lost my motivation there for a while, but when you nearly black out and drown more than once because of lung capacity its either the couch or the waves. So i chose waves. Hold downs are a bitch. Man has anyone shroom surfed that has to be the best.
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#3 Uncle. S

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Posted 03 July 2009 - 04:12 PM

Attached File  Picture_017.jpg   10.88KB   14 downloadsI started surfing through smoking ,or was it ...started smoking through surfing, i cant remember. But i gave up needing cones to surf and lost my motivation there for a while, but when you nearly black out and drown more than once because of lung capacity its either the couch or the waves. So i chose waves. Hold downs are a bitch. Man has anyone shroom surfed that has to be the best.


Very nice where is that?? I see your in Wa too, do u ever surf down mandurah way?
Do you reckon cacti-surfing could be similar to shrooms? Thats next on my list :)

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#4 bℓσωηG

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Posted 03 July 2009 - 04:20 PM

Very nice where is that?? I see your in Wa too, do u ever surf down mandurah way?
Do you reckon cacti-surfing could be similar to shrooms? Thats next on my list :)

Hey bro, mandurah is shite, and its up from where i am. When i used to surf on mushies i felt like i was the wave, in fact i was the water but it actually improved my surfing,because instead off trying to perform i just became the wave. Like ol Gerry Lopez said '' The wave is the music and the ride is the dance" The pic is 1000km north of perth ,a must place to visit for every goofy.
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#5 VelvetSiren

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Posted 03 July 2009 - 04:25 PM

yeah i love surfing havent done it for years i miss WA beaches. thats where i learnt to surf
you Wa'ers ever surf off hilaries, 2 kn off shore, best waves int he perth area out there there are a few reefs out there, if not get a boat and head out there
i have not done much surfing with ethnos but used to smoke all the time so it was ineviatable i went stoned, one night went down to city beach on a head full of acid and did some surfing under the lights there, very enjoyable
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#6 Chiral

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Posted 03 July 2009 - 04:25 PM

Okay I have hundreds of surf stories..here is a scary one...one late autumn afternoon me and my mate smiley went down to a break outside of Forster called "Janies Corner" known for it's rebounding wedge shaped waves...the swell would come in from the south and bounce of the headland further out and then reform and throw up these huge wedge shaped peaks that were wicked and wild to catch... a lot of water movement and bouncing around but was insane and nice long waves...sometimes it would start out as a left hander and then reshape into a right hander...was a really unique wave and cool but scary place to surf...really isolated and no one around hardly ever except surfers and the odd fisherman...anyways this one day we had scored some nice waves about 4-6 foot and clean as...we only had about 1-1/2 of light left and we paddled out and started enjoying some clean barrells etc...I had just paddled back out and smiley was sitting up on his board waiting for a wave... he looked back at me towards the shore as I had said something to him while paddling back out...all of a sudden he looked scared and laydown on his board real quick...he said fuck did you see that...I sat up and said see what...? he said nothing and I looked to where he was looking back towards shore... :(
There it was...a fucking huge fin about 3 feet tall out of the water...the unmistakable fin of a white pointer...this cunt was huge and was circling in around behind us about 20 feet away...it got in between us and the shore...we fucking shit bricks big time...my life started flashing and I felt completely alone and frightened as fuck...it was me against the shark...I thought nothing of anyone else and started to paddle out further looking for anything to catch...so did smiley as it was between us and the shore and was heading our way..there was only one way home safely...catch a wave and get the fuck out of there as quick as possible...panic set in and we were both nearly in tears...not another soul was on the beach or anywhere to be seen...we didn't even tell anyone where we were...we both paddled out wider and saw some swell bouncing off the outside headland but didn't look big enough to catch...the fin dived and we lost sight of it...fuck this I was gunna catch this wave no matter what...I spun around and so did smiley...we paddled with all our energy and had just enough momentum to get on the wave but stay laying down on our boards...we banged into each other going down the wave and screamed fuck like 2 scared school girls..we where side by side on our guts being pummled by white water and out of control...I hung on for dear life and the nose of my board dug into the front of the wave and made me spin around upside down and I did a weird barrel roll kinda thing and plopped out the back of the wave...I was only half way in...shitting myself I just paddled like you wouldn't believe towards shore...I looked back once and saw some white water to the left of me and furiously paddled over to try and get it and just barely got onto it and rode it for a few meters closer...fuck this I still hadn't got to shore...the problem was a gutter of deep water near the shore had the waves petering out before the shore so it was paddle in now only...I looked to my right and smiley had lost his wave too and was paddling furiously towards shore...not looking back we both paddled and finally got passed the gutter and found the shorebreak and crashed onto the sand...totally exhausted and scared shitless...we both looked at each other with wide eyes and said "get fucked" really loud and collapsed to the sand almost in tears...we looked out to where we had been sitting and about a hundred yards away further up the beach and there it was...the fin...it was cruising down along the beach and heading for the deep gutter...bullshit man we were soooo damn lucky that smiley saw that fin when he did or one of us may not have been here to tell the tale...we think that shark was in the newspapers a week later...it was caught by a trawler off Port Stephens and was hung up on the docks for all to see...the biggest sighting and catch of a white pointer in the history of that area ever...I forget how much it weighed but it was 20 something feet long... :o with it's mouth open you could literally swim straight inside it's mouth it was that big...when we saw the story on the news me and smiley said fuck man surely that was the fin we saw a week earlier...scary shit man...scary shit.

H.

#7 Uncle. S

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Posted 03 July 2009 - 04:26 PM

Hey bro, mandurah is shite



Haha yes it is, and by the sounds of it you're where i want to be. That sounds amazing, hopefully will give it a shot sometime soon.

@velvet+hunab: Yous are both insane! Some poor bugger got eaten 500m down from my local spot not long ago.. scary shit

Edited by Uncle Staunch, 03 July 2009 - 04:34 PM.

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#8 bℓσωηG

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Posted 03 July 2009 - 04:55 PM

Mate speakin of big fuckoff sharks, i wont piss in my wetsuit cos apparently it sends em into a frenzy,and also never let the dog near the wetsuit as they smell alot like seals. I have seen one great white in the 13 years of being here, the fin was 3 feet high and the thing was moving so fast towards me that a bow wave was created in front of it. Apparantly they do this to create a window of clear water to better see what they about to attack. Yep walk on water jesus style, i told the only other guy out and he just said "so", but since then there has been a fatality at the break. There was a dead humback out to sea and this kept the sharks hangin around. This time of year the big female great whites travel north following the migrating whales which give birth in the north west and back down again , also they get the little seals which move to shelter from the winter winds along the coast. I dont know if the zero visibility is a good or bad thing, but if you dont see them you sure as hell get the feeling youre being watched.They can hear you heart beating through your board....spooky, keep paddling

Edited by blowng, 03 July 2009 - 04:55 PM.


#9 Bush Turkey

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Posted 03 July 2009 - 05:25 PM

Very nice where is that?? I see your in Wa too, do u ever surf down mandurah way?
Do you reckon cacti-surfing could be similar to shrooms? Thats next on my list :)



hey uncle staunch is that 4ths groyne in your pic??? mandurah is awesome if your a lidder like me!!! love pyramids wedge!!!
plus you have garden island and pengeos in the area! what more could you want? garden island you will have a deserted break to yourself if ya have a boat.
i like surfing perth cause ya have so much variety! you can surf when its flat (rotto) or when its 50knt onshore winds (rousys-santrax)
so glad there is a surfing thread! as for sharks they are everywhere! get used to it! a shark will have to kill me to stop me from surfing!!! haha famous last words!

a good thing to make a habit of is have a shower and wash your hair before a surf because there is a chemical is shampoo that is know to scare sharks off! plus a shark wont eat somthing smelling of soap! thats why ya never catch fish if ya wash your hands! ill find the name of this chemical and post it

Edited by Bush_Turkey, 03 July 2009 - 05:28 PM.

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#10 MindExpansion

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Posted 03 July 2009 - 05:36 PM

Havent surfed in ages since moving to sydney but used to bodyboard up north where i lived, some of the reef breaks up there were absolutely insane... coffs reef, well, outter.
We were one of the only 2 goups of people I know who have ever scored this wave that was about 1km off our local beach. No one ever checked it but when there was swell (usually had to be 6ft+) we paddled out there, scariest thing I've ever done given my paranoia of sharks, that first time we went out there we only started paddling back in when it was nearly dark, and still stopped to get a wave at another little reef we bumped into on the way to shore.
That wave was insane, a really thin reef so deep on both sides and swell lumps would hit it and just jack up to give this huge heavy slab of water, every wave had a drop and that meant you ended up eating it on a lot of them so pretty hectic out there.
First time I surfed well (Pic the other 3 pics of this spot are fakes and this is a small day for well) it wasnt huge but i managed to eat shit on one wave, leash snapped and i was stuck inside with cramps having to paddle in for my board... this reef is also a few hundred metres offshore and makes for some pretty good spearfishing sometimes too.
But smoking generally took away my motivation to surf and increased my paranoia of sharks.
Sunrise surfs after a night on trips is always an amazing experience mmm.
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#11 Bush Turkey

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Posted 03 July 2009 - 05:42 PM

its sodium lauryl sulfate in shampoo that repels sharks
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#12 Chiral

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Posted 03 July 2009 - 06:22 PM

its sodium lauryl sulfate in shampoo that repels sharks


lol...wouldn't have any of us...we never washed our hair for months on end...in fact I remember not washing my hair for over a year when I surfed everyday...it was bleached and dreaded so heavily from the salt and sun it just didn't seem necessary.

Another shorter story of mine was one day when I was about 14 from memory yeah I was in 3rd form...I jigged school and had just got a new board and was wanting to break it in sooo badly...so I skipped school and rode my treadly up to north one mile beach Forster...our high school at the time was only 5 mins away so I met my girl friend at the time down the back of the school sports field before my surf for a quick few ciggies and a pash... :blush: ...I bailed from her as she had to go to class, and rode up to one mile...when I got there it was abandoned as it was a midweek day and everyone was at work or school...the swell was lumpy and bouncing around everywhere and there was just a touch of a light northerly wind coming around the headland...it was grey and overcast but nice and warmish...i slipped my springy on and paddled out into lumpy 6 foot peaks...for some reason I had a little trouble getting out and thought shit it's bigger out here than it looks...there was a rip right up against the rocks that took you out to the end of the headland but it was getting smashed with white water so it was tiring getting out...anyways I got out there and sat up and and got a feel for how it was..5 mins later I was greeted by another couple of locals who I knew that where older guys who had taken off from work to catch some waves...we commented on how big it was and it didn't look that big from the shore...anyways we started catching waves here and there and each time noticing that they were in fact getting bigger and bigger by the minute...to cut a long story short it got to a point where the tide had come in fully and was allowing us to get out with the rip easier but the swell had pumped up another 6 foot or more....the last time I got back out there was one of the other 2 guys out there and me and thats' it...we started seeing huge mountains on the horizon and just kept paddling out and out to get over them...we didn't want to catch them as they where huge big fucking close outs...we ended up so far out it was impossible to get back in without catching one of these horrendous massive walls of water...we ended up about 500 meters off the shore stranded out the back amongst some serious storm surf and no way to get in other than a wave...it wasn't scary as such just a pain in the ass...we noticed a crowd had gathered on the headland and people were now on the beach looking and pointing out to sea...it was now getting to be really huge and we were being watched by about 30 people all up...what the fuck to do...it was hard to tell what the shape of the waves were as we kept paddling over and over out the back to be safe...in the end I decided fuck this I'm gunna have to get one and ride it and hope to hell I survive...I found a huge big wall and decided it looked best to go left...I stood up and dropped down the face of this thing at a million miles an hour...and just let my left hand dig into the wall to try and stabilise my self and tuck in...this thing was 15-18ft or something of huge big fat, wall of barreling close out motherfucker...i leaned into the wall and all I could see was a huge lip just throw it's self over my world and I raced down the line for about 30 yards at a frightening pace...I was completely covered up by tonnes of water and the sound of spitting hissing tube pressure, then when I could no longer see out the tunnel it came and ripped me apart inside to a million pieces in a million directions at once...I got thrown so hard and fast and was pummeled so harshly I felt my ear pop from the pressure...bang crash smash...leg rope gone in an instant...upside down and smashed into the water for about a minute it seemed and I finally came to the surface...fuck I tell you that was the worst wipe out I ever took and I had 3 more sets from out the back to deal with without my board...I survived but I could hear the people on the beach moaning and yelling frantically...that was and still is the hardest wipeout I have ever had...I stood watching on the beach with onlookers for hours in my wetsuit once I recovered and wondered at how big it had gotten so quickly...needless to say my board copped a beating and the legrope had sliced straight through the fibreglass causing much damage... :P

H.

#13 VelvetSiren

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Posted 03 July 2009 - 06:30 PM

yeah penguin island is good, my cousins used to have a beach house the would borrow or something there, used to go out there a lot summer holidays when i was a kid, do some diving out there near seal island, cousins would surf the back beach at penguin. in low tide you can walk there on the sand bar well i dont knwo whats its like there these days has been a long time since i been there.

used to surf a lot around albany a lot too. salmon holes is a good break but my other cousin has seen a few pointers there so im not game to surf there.
one day went out to sand patch and as we looked down at the break we could see quite a few sharks there so we passed on that break that day. went out to mutton bird island instead.
i surfed a lot down that way. good beaches there. WA has a lot to offer for surfing, my favourite break is yallingup. i love that place, place of love :wub:
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#14 bℓσωηG

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Posted 03 July 2009 - 06:49 PM

I dislocated my knee trying to destroy a lip, faarrrk it hurt! But what was worse was the sound of it popping. Underwater in agony i instincively and without thinking ,reached down ,grabbed my lower half of my left leg which was facing out and locked ,pulled it down , rotated it ,and finally realeased it. Wow ,WTF ive never dislocated my knee before but i shudder to think what wouldve happened if i didnt do that there and then. Another few smashings in the shorey before finally grovelling to shore and limping the 5 kms back to the car. Ooh .....I remember stubbing me toe along the way ,faark !That was the worst. Got back home and my knee was like a basketball,I was out of the water for the whole summer. I have since learned to not disrespect the mother and to not surf in anger. I still surf that spot religiously and we have developed a sweet relationship of mutual respect. Anyone else feel that deep love from a particular wave?

#15 bℓσωηG

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Posted 03 July 2009 - 06:50 PM

Yeah yalls is joy

Edited by blowng, 03 July 2009 - 06:51 PM.


#16 Bush Turkey

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Posted 03 July 2009 - 06:52 PM

oh dude yallingup!!! i love that place! supertubes dude :drool2:
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#17 Uncle. S

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Posted 04 July 2009 - 01:10 AM

Never dislocated anything thank fuck! But once slashed my wrist so badly with my big toe nail during a wipeout, that was a bit random. Yeah yals is sweet but never had it big enough that its got any sort of shape, only ever had small sections over the reef followed by huge closeouts
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#18 bℓσωηG

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Posted 04 July 2009 - 02:35 PM

Hahaha, yeah i really dont like yalls that much i just hoped that anyone reading these posts might visit there instead of where i go, theres too many people go there already ,im not even going to mention her name ,oh she so precious to me ... selfish i know but thats the nature of the beast . plenty to choose from down this way though.

#19 santiago

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Posted 04 July 2009 - 05:57 PM

Went clubbing on a sat night maybe 8 years ago, stayed up way way too late, of course it was offshore & pumping the next arvo, so severely depleted i went along with some friends to The Spot @ yanchep. It was semi big maybe 5 ft and i was worried i was going to have a heart attack due to self inflicted exaustion.

Suprise suprise the body coped well and a great session was had, the only weird part was i could hear doof doof music when i duckdived under the waves, it must have been from sleep deprivation etc.....my mate called out 'what are you smiling about' i said 'the music man under the water' and he rolled his eyes and went 'cockoo cockoo' insinuating i was crazy hahah.

Once you go down to Margs its too depressing to surf in Perth. The Spot is great sometimes i think that right hander around the bend is very good value. Margs however for pure choice and extremes takes the cake WA wise. The last time we were there we went to big rock and it was perfect but about 10 foot and you could feel the thunder in the air, i actually talked my two mates into giving it a go and no kidding all of us had to use the public toilet there, we were freakin out so much we literally all had to crap.
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#20 mauve

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Posted 04 July 2009 - 08:04 PM

hmmm shark attack on shrooms... :wacko:

#21 bℓσωηG

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Posted 04 July 2009 - 10:18 PM

Once you go down to Margs its too depressing to surf in Perth. The Spot is great sometimes i think that right hander around the bend is very good value. Margs however for pure choice and extremes takes the cake WA wise. The last time we were there we went to big rock and it was perfect but about 10 foot and you could feel the thunder in the air, i actually talked my two mates into giving it a go and no kidding all of us had to use the public toilet there, we were freakin out so much we literally all had to crap.

Yeah i gave up smokin for the place not only for the extra lung power needed but the fear factor as well, for me anyway ,...paranoia in big surf can be deadly. Best not to hesitate on those big drops, lip launchings in these parts are a nono ,you can be pinned to the reef for an eternity.Got to watch those underwater caves too .Gasp!

#22 santiago

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Posted 04 July 2009 - 11:10 PM

Yeah i gave up smokin for the place not only for the extra lung power needed but the fear factor as well, for me anyway ,...paranoia in big surf can be deadly


true true every billy beforehand adds another foot to the surf.....in the head anyway :) one of those mates i mentioned is a chronic smoker and he's always hangin on the shoulder or gettin stuck inside the break zone tryin to get back out, one time he swore black and blue he had a 20 foot face wave sesh at mullaloo one morning (yea right), mind you on the flip side maybe a little paranoia might stop ya from sometimes charging the big ones that tend to nail you.
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#23 tardistestpilot

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Posted 05 July 2009 - 12:02 AM

ive heard good reports about rottnest island any of you WA guys surfed over there ?.....
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#24 planthelper

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Posted 05 July 2009 - 12:40 AM

it had been maybe around 10 months since i immigrated with my family to australia and surfing was all new and very cool for me. hmm, i don't know if i should go on with my story as just to think of what happend still fills me with instat fear.
i was very stupid and my cockyness and inexperience got me into trouble....

anyway i never surfed in my life before on a long board, just a bit of body and boogy board surfing since 6 months or so...
bought a cheap board at a garage sale, went to the beach with it, beach had signs up saying beach closed, storm surf!
i though at least i got all the waves just for myselfe and entered the water.
we are talking north avoca beach here central coast.
i had to dive seven mega waves to get out and once this was done, the rip just pulled me out into the open sea very fast.
my hands are shaking now and my body feels like full of lead...
the waves where around the 5 metres mark and quite clean, but i got constantly dumped into the sea and started to swallow water.
than it hit me, you will die.
and it felt so stupid to accept that such a mistake would end my life, and not only end it, but end it in a horrible way, full of panic.
but once i accepted my death and had a quick prayer an eerie calmess over came me, and i promised myselfe to fight this till the end.
i told my wife to look out for me, but she obviously could not see me anymore and left the beach, that was a downer, all was up to me, no help to be expected.
far out the waves were a bit better to manage and i suddenly functioned in almost a super human level,
i said first conserve your energy, and this helped but i was starting to get very, very cold.
i just stared towards the horizont waiting for an extra big wave which was my only chance of surviving.
after 20min or so (i was in the water for probably 90min all up) i suddenly saw a white line at the horizont.
the line came closer and close but took many minutes to reach me,
IT WAS A MONSTER WAVE, and i knew i had to take this wave or die.
once the wave came closer, i paddled with what ever energy i had left and guess what, the wave just unfolded herselfe perfectly for me, and like the kid on top of the slide i raced down the wave.
just hold the board at the back, my thought voice commanded me, so in case the wave tries to throw you, you will not summersault or get dunked to much, because i new, if this wave wipes me out, i will not come up again.
but the wave took me nicely and after 2/3 of the ride i knew i would not fucking die, and this was too much for me.
i did not die, i did not die, is all i was thinking, and the monster wave carried me allmost all the way to the carpark,
and i knew this beach access and carpark quite well, and had never seeing the water come in that far inland.

since than i always warn all the tourists to never, ever underestimate the sea.
i was lucky because i was very fit when this happend.....

surfing, oh my god, it's the ultimate thrill!

Edited by planthelper, 05 July 2009 - 12:45 AM.

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#25 Chiral

Chiral

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Posted 05 July 2009 - 10:58 AM

Cool story PH...yeah many people underestimate the ocean, every year in my home town the tourists would come and invade the water and usually it was us locals that would end up saving their ass's time and time again...even just some of the swimmers would get torn out the back with the rips and would need saving...I almost lost my life saving a Lebanese guy and his daughter one day at one particular beach...I wasn't out in the surf I was sitting having a break and chilling with my girl when I saw this little girl about 9 start to wander down the beach a bit too far via a rip...and sure enough she was soon screaming...her father tried to chase her out and he also became involved in the rips pulling them out...I raced out with my board and was with them in a matter of seconds...they were panicking like all shit and they looked they were seeing death...the father attacked me around my neck and started to try and use me as something to float on...he had his daughter by the hair and me in a throat lock with his knees in my back...he was a big strong hairy guy which is what actually saved me from drowning...I pulled the hairs on his skin viciously to make him hurt so he would let go...I finally was able to get some order in the situation and placed his daughter on my board and I used my skills as a Brownze owner to pull him back with my arm around his chin keeping his mouth above water and paddling back in slowly...my GF was a Bronze too and she came out swimming to help me get them back in...they were so grateful and were crying for an hour on the beach after wards...the wife was cursing through her veil in Lebanese at them both, but in tears at the same time...this is the problem see, these people come from the suburbs and have never spent any time at the beach...they see absolutely glorious white sand and turquoise blue water and they fall in love and just head out, not for one second even trying to analyse the water conditions for gutters sand banks, rips etc...as a surfer it becomes second nature and you can use the waters movements to your advantage to get around and, not use so much energy...but these same water movements can have a tourist with no experience in a dangerous situation in a matter of seconds. This but one of hundreds of little mini rescues I have performed not including others my friends and other locals have had to perform...with 13 different beaches in my town and only one patrolled...the odds are against these suburbanite's...lucky they have the drugged hippy no gooders on their boards out there to save them huh.

H.