Ace Posted May 1, 2007 Hey guys, attached is a PDF grafting tek for pereskiopsis and cacti seedlings (namely lophs). Hope you like it, I will update with newer versions as I get pics (perhaps every couple months) and additional notes. Enjoy! Now, get out there and GRAFT!! Pereskiopsis_Grafting_in_a_Nutshell_1.1.pdf Please let me know if there are any errors, or if you think there should be any changes. Pereskiopsis_Grafting_in_a_Nutshell_1.1.pdf Pereskiopsis_Grafting_in_a_Nutshell_1.1.pdf 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ENtiTY Posted May 1, 2007 Fine piece of journalism there Ace So when is the book being published hehe. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CarlDry Posted May 1, 2007 Well Done. Good info Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Auxin Posted May 2, 2007 Good guide But did you really root out and grow that 5mm left over bit of pereskiopsis? Can cuttings be rooted ok in water or should they be put in vermiculite or calloused and planted in soil? I've heard it every which way and my new peres is almost recovered from its journey well enough to start cloning it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ace Posted May 2, 2007 Cheers Auxin Yep, well, that is to say that I put it in some soil. I dont think it has done anything yet, but its only been a couple days. I wont lose sleep if it dies, but I'll be pretty happy if it powers on I usually root peres cuttings just in a pot of fresh soil. Give it plenty of water, warmth and light and never let it completely dehydrate, and you'll be laughing! I started with about 6 cuttings and now I have about 2-3 times that But, alas, that is never enough! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hagakure Posted May 2, 2007 nice guide Ace im heaps brutal with my peres, snap em off, plonk em in any old soil. have one tip that was sitting in saucer of another plant and it popped out some roots after a while. hardy little fellas. their only weakness is that some caterpillars find them very very tasty. i guess that can be helped by some mesh to keep the moths out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Μορφέας Posted May 2, 2007 awesome post ace, iv saved that. very nice!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bob-bob Posted May 2, 2007 Nicely done Ace, I think think this could be a good start for this place. I have often thought this place needs a lot more teks pinned in all forums as is done at the nook and many other sites to stop people receiving replies such as "UTSE". So the enlightened ones out there start typing and the moderators start pinning!! Once again, nice work Ace. Cheers. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
teonanacatl Posted May 2, 2007 You may aswell add some pics to it. Stock ready for grafts. Razor blade= secret weapon Lophs to be grafted Stock ready for graft Loph ready to be grafted, just pop it on top and apply a little pressure. Grafts in humidity My tips: - cut peres so its about same diameter as loph to be grafted and align loph on one side of peres. - the humidity is so they dont dehydrate before they take, so removing lights might help aswell. - the healthier the seedlings the more chance of taking, so when you begin graft healthy ones 1-2months old. - clean cuts. - experience is worth 1000 teks, so just do it. I also tried some wedge grafts on some bigger plants today. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
teonanacatl Posted May 3, 2007 Also i see no point in alcohol swabs and sliding the loph off the blade onto the stock is not needed, just but then place on with fingers. Also i see no need for ooze from leaves, in most cases its good enough as it is. And where you cut the peres depends on the size of the loph to be grafted. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ace Posted May 3, 2007 unreal pics teo! and thanks for your tips I will add them to my list of things to do, and I'll do an updated version - perhaps just start from scratch using the better pics Big thanks - and Yep, I still agree, experience is worth more than any tek, but this is just to give people a good idea of what the basics are and a bit of encouragement Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hagakure Posted May 3, 2007 hows about we get these teks up on the ethnobot wiki. ace and teos pictures would be great on there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
teonanacatl Posted May 3, 2007 haha i didnt realise there was pics already lol otherwise i wouldnt have taken mine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
83turkey Posted May 5, 2007 Good info guys! Where can i find reasonably priced peres? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Auxin Posted May 5, 2007 Where can i find reasonably priced peres? Oh yeah... I heard of a shop called Shaman Australis that sells them for $6 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tripitaka Posted May 5, 2007 I have been trying forced etoliation with my loph seedlings with some good success. What I have found is that once the seedling reaches say 1.5cm or over in height, I can cut the top of the seedling (apical meristem) and subsequently graft this as per usual and am left with a rooted section which I ensure includes several aeroles which will eventually produce pups. This can then be re-cut and grafted once more onto the pereskiopsis root stock. Essentially I can get 2 or more grafts from a single seedling. Its my 2 for 1 deal! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Auxin Posted May 6, 2007 How do you force etoliation on loph seedlings? Growing in the dark or several ppm gibberellin A3 or somethin? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
teonanacatl Posted May 6, 2007 yeah mine stretch abit, i like it cos it gets the tips up then i expose to more light and they fatten, i also then add gravel to the surface and cos they were a little etoliated they sit above it. Can just graft both bits trip Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ENtiTY Posted May 7, 2007 So... How does one force etoliation? Please explain, this sounds like a very handy thing to know Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ace Posted May 7, 2007 It would have to be done via a lack of light. That is the only thing that will cause it AFAIK. A very interesting idea Tripi! What is the success rates so far with getting 2 grafts per seedling? Is there a lot of difficulty in this method? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Auxin Posted May 7, 2007 It would have to be done via a lack of light. That is the only thing that will cause it AFAIK. I take it youve never played with gibberellin A3? That stuff can turn virtually anything into a fast growing vine. Most biology books will have a pic of a regular cabbage that was turned into a 5 meter long vine with it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ace Posted May 7, 2007 Really? Man, never heard of it but it sounds pretty cool! Where would you source that? Perhaps a nursery, or a chemist or something? So how does it effect the plant? Just pumps it up really fast? If so, why arent we using it for our cacti already!?!?! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tripitaka Posted May 7, 2007 Well the method I use to force etoliation is to simply place say 70% shade cloth over the top of my growing tubs (140watt CF), have not tried gibberellin A3 but as Auxin says this may work as well and I am sure would provide many more aeroles to work with. I have tried 2 grafts this way so far and all have taken. It is no more difficult than any other form of grafting I have tried and you will double your grafting bank 2 fold. Well worth the extra effort I would say. I like to work smarter not harder Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ace Posted May 7, 2007 Smarter indeed! Im actually suprised this isnt more common. A simple idea with some great rewards! I might have to shade a few seedlings and see if I cant make an attempt at it... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
