planthelper Posted March 1, 2012 a few pics of some of my grafts, matchhead shows scale. i think my pc needs a restart, more hopefully later. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
planthelper Posted March 1, 2012 this graft is several years old, the peres still holds up. hoodia gordonii, grafted onto stapelia. a varigated loph graft. i regrafted the colorfull loph onto some pedro. and the green lophs are the regrowth of the original peres loph graft. use the peres leaf for scale, they are still quite small. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jonstn Posted March 1, 2012 Nice pics PH how big is the Peres on the several year old loph? Im still building up my stock but done a couple grafts now. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Evil Genius Posted March 1, 2012 Nice pics, planthelper. Thanks for sharing. Is the variegated Loph seedgrown or did you get it as a cutting? bye Eg Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
planthelper Posted March 2, 2012 (edited) Nice pics PH how big is the Peres on the several year old loph? Im still building up my stock but done a couple grafts now. the peres don't elongate over time much, if at all, but they circumfrence does get bigger of the peres, i guess the diametre is around 10mm. i will take measurments. Nice pics, planthelper. Thanks for sharing. Is the variegated Loph seedgrown or did you get it as a cutting? bye Eg i grew it from seed. late edit: changed the wording 12mm, to 10mm. Edited March 3, 2012 by planthelper Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
niggles Posted March 2, 2012 Hi there! Nice pics, thanks for sharing. That first pic is an Ariocarpus, yes? Im curious, when it comes to grafting ariocarpus,if you cut off the head for grafting, will that big bulbous root system pup again and survive? How much of the top would you need to leave attached to allow it to pup? Any thoughts or advice? cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
niggles Posted March 2, 2012 Also - cool to see the Hoodia graft, thats the first one Ive seen. I was just about to try doing that! Do you feel the growth rate of the Hoodia has been significantly increased by the grafting? Its looking very green compared to mine which is more of a dull greyish colour. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tonic Posted March 2, 2012 (edited) @niggles. Regarding grafting Ariocarpus seedlings. You are better off trying to graft the lower half, roots and all onto another Pereskiopsis stock (or the same one if you are skilled at the technique), this usually will pup eventually and grow into a nice plant. It is unlikely that a cut seedling will survive and pup as it will be far too small and it's highly unlikely that you will be able to leave an intact areole that can produce a pup. You need intact areoles for pups to grow from. This applies to all cacti. Hope that helps. @PH. Nice grafts mate. Edited March 2, 2012 by tonic Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
planthelper Posted March 3, 2012 Also - cool to see the Hoodia graft, thats the first one Ive seen. I was just about to try doing that! Do you feel the growth rate of the Hoodia has been significantly increased by the grafting? Its looking very green compared to mine which is more of a dull greyish colour. i started grafting them first because, i wanted to have more plants, at that stage i had only a few specimens. than i realised that grafting makes them less vunerable against rotting away. the growth rate with the grafted hoodias is better, than the non grafted, but i water the grafts a lot, whilst the hoodias on there own roots, don't get as frequent waterings. i tried to upload more grafts, but the puplic pc either freezes up or the pic comes up black, so i post this dragon fruit flower instead. i waited five years for that flower (the fruit was yummy). i will upload more grafts from another pc. sorry java problems, can't upload. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
planthelper Posted March 3, 2012 penis on pedro, so far, i can't observe any more virgor for the penis. here is a loph which has been grafted onto a small unrooted echinopsis. this pic shows the previously used echinopsis, with his roots formed by means of etiolation only (and the moisture in the air) well growing asteria. turbinicarpus, i think they are slow growers, grafted or not. dragon fruit flower, i had to wait 5 years for that one. fruit on the plant. all this hard work made me hungry, yummy dragon fruit! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tonic Posted March 3, 2012 A question for you PH. Did you graft the little loph onto the unrooted Echinopsis while it had roots and take a cutting? Or did you graft it to an un rooted stock? I have recently been experimenting with grafting to un rooted stocks, which seems to work quite well, just keen to get your insight on this. Does it effect growth much if un rooted, for example? Thanks. tonic Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gilligan Posted March 3, 2012 I've been doing a fair bit of unrooted grafting, from what I've seen, as long as the stock is in growth, it'll transfer to the scion... This is from both large and small stock, pach Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tonic Posted March 3, 2012 Do you find it has impeded growth gilligan? Or do you find it is the same/similar as grafting onto a pre rooted stock? I should have mentioned that the stocks I am experimenting are Trichos, but that's the what you are using anyway. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gilligan Posted March 3, 2012 Nah, doesnr seem like they are impeded in any way... the growth slows as the scions take but after this tthey seems to grow as well as the other rooted ones. I think iin the long term they'll have issues vs a rooted one, but to just allow tthe grafting, then set aside to root andf plant seems good... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tonic Posted March 3, 2012 (edited) That's good to know. Thanks for that. Can I ask the reasoning behind your theory that the un rooted stocks will have less issues than the stocks that already have roots? Thanks. Edited March 3, 2012 by tonic Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chilli Posted March 3, 2012 I think gilligan meant they would have more issues? I have one of these unrooted grafted cuttings, the scion is growing well and pupping but the stock seems to be not rooting as well as some other cuittings, but that could be a number of factors. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gilligan Posted March 3, 2012 Initially, all if the growth is goin into the scion on an unrooted stock, but eventually, the stock will need to send out roots, thus energy us expended both ends, not just the growing end... That's why in the longer run, the already rooted stocks prob have it over the unrooted. But as I say, I've done a lot of these grafts, and haven't had them fail or become stunted... Nice plants, ph, I love the dragonfruit flower! That ario is nice too :-) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
planthelper Posted March 4, 2012 the echinopsis with the little loph on top, had at the time of grafting, some roots just emerging, as it shows in the pic. so the term unrooted is not entirely correct, let's say it just started forming roots. but grafting onto stock without any roots works fine, maybe sometimes the pedro doesn't like getting roots for some reason and than, you might have to re graft, or wait longer for roots to be formed. i once got inspired by a pic, showing a good sized pedro, with several small lophs, placed right onto the vascular ring, so i tried that, but always failed after a few weeks. the trick seems to me is, to choose a small pedro and place the loph onto the "pin pointed" vascular bundle. in other words, cut the pedro only slightly down, so the vascular ring looks only like a small disc. slicing the pedro like salami, will explain that better than words... i think grafting onto bare pedros, works very well. when grafting onto peres, the few important things are, only use very healthy full in virgor peres, if the peres is very dry (no sap ozzing out) use the juice of a very fat peres leaf to lubricate the union, but if the peres discards a lot of sap when you cut it, better don't graft at all because the loph might get pushed of the stock, by the juice. same can happen, if you water the peres after you grafted. but too dry, is not good either, one has to develope a "feel" for things like that. happy grafting! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tonic Posted March 4, 2012 Ahhh! Yeah, bit of a misunderstanding on my part there gilligan. That's what I figured. Doesn't seem like you or planthelper have any real difficulties regarding the use of un rooted stocks. Good to know. Was mainly concerned with loss of vigour in the growth as the stock may expend all it's energy trying produce new roots. Appears that is not a major factor though. ph, yeah I know what you mean mate regarding the vascular bundle. Have you considered using glue to graft multiple scions to a large pedro's vascular bundle? I use glue quite a bit in my grating adventures. Sometimes it gives just that little bit extra hold when scions are getting knocked off or not fusing as well as they might. This topic has really piqued my interest, thanks for the info. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
planthelper Posted March 4, 2012 i have never used glue, but i'm sure it works well for some people. small scions don't need any, "holding down", and for larger ones, i use washers and nuts (thread metal stuff) or elastic bands and panyhoses. the thing with multy scions on the bundle as said, has never worked for me. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tonic Posted March 4, 2012 I use pantyhoes and also glue. Pantyhoes are the shiz!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
planthelper Posted December 16, 2012 update! this one was hard to capture and i'm still not happy with the outcome of the pic. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
solomon Posted December 16, 2012 Wow really nice ario's there PH the loph aint bad either ;) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nitrogen Posted December 16, 2012 (edited) Wow - super gorgeous grafts, man! I've gott get into growing ario's and astros from seed - is it hard? Per the penis plant on pedro - I have never observed the "slow-growing TBM" phenomenon that others describe - In my experience TBM's - both clone A and clone B - grow about as fast as a typical bridgesii - once they get going the clumping variety will put out a flush of pups that will each grow to maturity very quickly. They just need to be watered and fed right and they can be quite vigorous.. Edited December 16, 2012 by nitrogen Share this post Link to post Share on other sites