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The Corroboree
Uncle. S

The Surfing Thread

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Nah hunab its not at winki. It down the coast a little further at port campbell, quite a well known big wave spot.

Has anyone else tried any ethno substances while surfing

A few years ago i regularly used to eat a few gramss of subs before i used to paddle out(small days of coarse). It made surfing into a more spiritual experience. I used to ponder where waves came from, how they were spit up into sets and why was i surfing them? A SAB surfing trip sounds great. Maybe we could have a trip somewhere remote and try and discover some new waves?

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i tried linking that vid again, didnt work dont know why,but i am not a cybernerd...........if you havent heard of the ''pororoca '' in the amazon, check it out.........yeah a surfari would be cool maybe in peru where we could also explore the origins of ethnobotanicals hehe

Edited by blowng

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post-4908-1248429579_thumb.jpg Japanese surf spot not vely seclet

183_2.jpg

183_2.jpg

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gracetown such a beautiful spot, a poor guy got killed by a shark today at south point. I must have been out there maybe 100 times and had a run in about 10 years ago with a big shark at north point just across the bay, the man had a couple of young kids and wife too, they must be devestated.

i feel pretty lucky right now and im about to head out to the shops now in my car, which probably statistically gives me more chance of dying than heading out tomorrow at triggs. sometimes life just has your number as unfortunate as that is, my sympathy goes out to the mans family.

http://au.news.yahoo...k-at-gracetown/

edit with link to same similar thread created 2 mins apart below

http://www.shaman-australis.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=25290&pid=268398&st=0entry268398

Edited by santiago

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no sharks in tarp surfing:

 

 

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In my late teen-early twenty's I used to bodyboard a well known break off Cronulla called Shark island. It's probably the most perfect and consistent break I have ever surfed, especially through autumn and winter.

The break is often too crowded on weekends to be surfable. I have some awesome memories of being unemployed for most of autumn and winter one year and having the place to my self most mornings. It can get so perfect on a still morning with a 3-4 foot swell. When its uncrowded you can sit as deep as you feel confident and get the barreled off your head.

Its pretty heavy and breaks on dry reef at times. If I ever get back out there it will be with one of those gath style helmets.

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A big storm is ripping up from Antarctica, peak expected to hit Tassie tomorrow.

Stand by for snowy polar blast - The Mercury

The winds are also expected to generate phenomenal seas with maximum wave heights to exceed 14 meters off the southern coastline on Thursday afternoon.

I would love to try and get down to Cloudy Bay on Bruny Island, but it would be a stretch with work...which is killing me. Anyone who has been to Cloudy Bay knows you can feel the rumble of the surf through the ground from about 100 meters away on a good day. It should be spectacular...I don't think I would have the cahones to get in though. :lol:

b-cloudy%20bay.jpg

Edited by Dale Cooper
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nice pic! is that cloudy bay? i have surfed coal point on bruny , but never made it to cloudy bay :(

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^^^

Yup, it is the small cove just up over the hill from the main part of Cloudy Bay...a bit hidden away. It is a magical place, especially the lagoon to the west side of the bay.

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Just wanted to share this pic, a picture tells a hundred words! Dees illustrations rock .

36814_113534938696739_100001207000141_83825_4575245_n.jpg

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holy crap, i was watching sports tonight last night before bed and they showed ''the night rider''.

basically this aussie guy created a world first by riding jaws (arguably the largest surf break in the world kms out to sea) at 2am in the morning on a board that was kinda engineered by nasa technology being primarily the led lights im talkin about.

i mean i hate the word sick.....but this is f-ing SICK.

i have surfed 3 foot trigg at night and i swear ill never do it again, i was scared outta my brain....not only from the eerieness of it, wondering if your about to get munched by a shark at any moment and just the adrenaline of pushing the limit....i get scared just watching this.

http://au.sports.yahoo.com/banzai/surf/feature/-/8689867/big-wave-surfer-mark-visser-makes-history/

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I just want to ask you surfers,

Do you "feel different" once you become a surfer? Do you feel more control in other aspects of your life, despite being unable to explain directly why? Do you imagine yourself as a "rider of life" - rather than someone floating along a river with their paths chosen for them by the whirling of water currents? Do the memories of surfing become "postcards" from happy times when you enjoyed living to the full and felt worry-less? Any of you been in the green room - what's it like? What are some of your favorite kind of waves and why? I know that bigger is not necessarily better. Other than swimmer's ear - are there army real dangers that skill cannot defend against?

I've wanted to start surfing for a while now, but time and money have been my main setbacks. Also, if there's any exercises that you surfers know that can help a non-surfer to be better when he starts, please let me know. I do understand that the best exercise for surfing is to actually surf, but I am fearful that I will spend my money on a wetsuit and a surfboard and not get enough use. So I want to be absolutely certain that I can get something meaningful from surfing.

Thanks if you can help. :)

P.s. - my rents live near a surf beach in NZ - so if any Aussies are out my way give me a bell. :]

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i wish i could put it into words for you, but i cant

This is my fave wave to watch at the moment.

It's called "the right" and is a bit of a WA secret

heavier than cyclops

 

 

Edited by Bush Turkey
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Cool clip.. some of those waves at the end are insane.. all like layerd and stuff.

I wish I could surf but I'm too scared of sharks.

Edited by chilli

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So I want to be absolutely certain that I can get something meaningful from surfing.

Try Body boarding. Far easier to get into if you can't get as much time in the water to train. I'd like to give you a longer response but Im tired. Maybe tomorrow.

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just thought I'd share a few shots from yours truly.

This is my favourite break named tunks ( short for tunkalilla beach ) This day was a few weeks ago and was pretty special.

post-9715-0-59328700-1332229099_thumb.jp

post-9715-0-99254500-1332229113_thumb.jp

post-9715-0-59328700-1332229099_thumb.jpg

post-9715-0-99254500-1332229113_thumb.jpg

post-9715-0-59328700-1332229099_thumb.jpg

post-9715-0-99254500-1332229113_thumb.jpg

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This day made the drive to the arse end of the south island of New Zealand very worthwhile.. My girlfriend is a wannabe professional photographer, but this was the first time she had ever seen surfing and she had no clue what constitutes a good wave . When i came in from the session i asked if she managed to snap my first wave (pictured below) and shes like ''Nah i deleted it as it wasn't an action shot'', i was like WTF? Noooo! but luckily she managed somehow to retrieve it from her camera memory . One of the best sand bottom barrels ive had , and yes i came out woooooo!!

curio1_zps7090ea27.jpg

a smaller one..

curio2_zpse3e08f8c.jpg

A old mates father once told us when we were grommies '' Never stop surfing " best advice ive ever had :)

I just want to ask you surfers,

Do you "feel different" once you become a surfer? Do you feel more control in other aspects of your life, despite being unable to explain directly why? Do you imagine yourself as a "rider of life" - rather than someone floating along a river with their paths chosen for them by the whirling of water currents? Do the memories of surfing become "postcards" from happy times when you enjoyed living to the full and felt worry-less? Any of you been in the green room - what's it like? What are some of your favorite kind of waves and why? I know that bigger is not necessarily better. Other than swimmer's ear - are there army real dangers that skill cannot defend against?

Mate getting a good wave and not struggling against it, rather becoming one with it... is the most incredible thing. You don't really have time to think about it or to realize what the fuck just happened until perhaps after the ride is finished , but sometimes after a good wave especially a barrel i am all a glow , like my spirit just woke up from centuries of slumber and is blazing. Many times i have cried with pure joy, humbled and so fucking honored to be able to communicate and connect to the energy of a wave ...it makes me teary just thinking of it :P

Edited by bℓσωηG
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Woah nice pic BT!! been missing the west for its coast mainly.

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I may take it up

And become a drop in specialist. I imagine a fist fight on a surfboard would not be an easy thing.

Word chilli- I have that fear of sharks also! I can

Go out in the surf where

My feet can't touch the bottom, or I start imagining jaws circling. There's a great white shark that's been circling australia since I was born, waiting

For me to fathom enough guff to brave it beyond the breakers ;)

Edited by incognito
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Starting to get itchy feet big time... but this is probably as close as i get to this wave in Angola..

Namibia has some sick point breaks too but mostly off limits and dangerous.

 

Edited by bℓσωηG
  • Like 4

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