azza Posted February 12, 2001 Originally posted by Torsten:However you can cut that waiting time in 1/5th by grafting the lophs onto Trichs ! I will soon be putting up a photo of a monster graft some 6cm high and 3 wide, which is only 2 years old. Pity it's not mine ;-) have you any photos? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Torsten Posted February 12, 2001 I don't have any, but check this site out. Erix got heaps and shows a decent method for doing it. http://www.homepages.hetnet.nl/%7Elarisa/erix.htm Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darklight Posted February 12, 2001 Actually the loph graft of which ye speak is 8cm tall and 3cm wide...I just measured it No I'm not boasting, I think I just lucked out on this one When I started it I supported the graft with 3M micropore tape ( from chemists ) Don't know whether this influenced its success or not. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M S Smith Posted February 13, 2001 http://groups.yahoo.com/group/EntheogenImages has a few Lophophora grafted to Trichocereus. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
earthalchemist Posted February 13, 2001 what species is the stock darklight? and in your humble opinion MS which trich makes the best stock? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M S Smith Posted February 13, 2001 I do not care for Tr. pachanoi at all personally, I like to use the short spined Tr. peruvianus or the Tr. peru x Juul's Giant. But if you can't have these stick to Tr. pachanoi, Myrtillocactus geometrizans or Stenocactus victoriensis. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darklight Posted February 13, 2001 Tr scop, but I'd have to confirm the correctness of ID with Torsten cos my place is a haven of misidentification. Tr scop was the name on the label anyhow Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Torsten Posted February 14, 2001 Originally posted by Darklight:Tr scop, but I'd have to confirm the correctness of ID with Torsten It's a scop, yes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dutchie Posted February 14, 2001 Hiya, I have also completed a micrograft a few months ago, the little peyot was only 4-5mm in dia. held in place with tape. It took well, begining to swell slightly after a few weeks. Now it has truned browny green(I assure you its not over lighting) and has two visable roots emerging near the graft join. Is this trying to lever itself free from the host? Dont wana loose her... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
earthalchemist Posted February 14, 2001 how do you use the micropore tape? is it taped over the top of the graft and down either side? i would think this wouldn't let enough light through to the scion. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darklight Posted February 14, 2001 Yep, it was just one piece, run vertically over the top. Cut was made with a sterile scalpel blade, contact was full & its worth noting that both the Loph and the scop were big enough so there was heaps of space left for light etc. I think micropore comes in different widths. I use 1", YMMV. I also still reckon I was lucky, it was my first grafted cactus Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Ramon Posted February 14, 2001 dutchie that is how I generally find out that my grafts have not worked the pup pushes itself of the host plant. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darklight Posted February 15, 2001 Dunno bout that, mine looked like it was pushing itself away from the scop too when the graft was taking. There is only the smallest & wobbliest point of contact remaining between the two and the loph looks like it will one day topple over under its own weight Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Torsten Posted February 15, 2001 Darklight, you loph was much bigger than dutchies. I presume you are using seedlings dutchie? I did the same and had a sucessful graft, but then the root pushed the loph off. Don't know what to do about it, other than to cut the root off. Also, humidity probably encourages the root formation, so it may be good to harden them off sooners. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M S Smith Posted February 18, 2001 It sounds like the scion on your graft hasn't succeeded really. The roots usually shouldn't come out because all the exposed flesh of the scion should be thoroughly connected to the bases exposed flesh. If the cores of each plant are lined up and the scion is being feed then I wouldn't worry much, let it grow until it pops off if need be, and then just either regraft or root. Typically a scion hardens up pretty quick after grafting, so if the scion is still soft and skwishy then it may not have taken and is setting roots in a quest for water (water which it is not getting from the base plant). http://groups.yahoo.com/group/EntheogenIma...ges/message/158 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Torsten Posted February 18, 2001 It sounds like the scion on your graft hasn't succeeded really. The roots usually shouldn't come out because all the exposed flesh of the scion should be thoroughly connected to the bases exposed flesh. Darklights graft, which is one of the most impressive I have ever seen (in real life and on the web) is only attached by a quarter wedge. I don't even like to touch the bloody thing as it seems so fragile. It's lasted a few years and has grown faster than any graft I've seen, so there is obviously no need to have the whole base attached. Typically a scion hardens up pretty quick after grafting, so if the scion is still soft and skwishy then it may not have taken and is setting roots in a quest for water (water which it is not getting from the base plant). I think there are different rules for micrografts and I really don't agree with the above. the micrografts don't harden off really. they are still in the high humidity environment as they have not passed seedling stage. This high humidity is going to cause rootgrowth no matter how much water the scion is getting from the stock. This is what makes micrografts so easy and quick, as the union is soft and grows immediately. I have been thinking about this problem a lot, as it would be a similar scenario with tissue cultured button cacti. I have Mammillaria craigii coming out of culture and one of the options was to graft them to avoid the high mortality rate of deflasking and hardening off quickly. I think an application of hormones may do the trick to focus growth on the upper part of the plant, rather than rooting. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Katsuk Posted February 27, 2001 Hi everyone, Last October I atemped my first 2 grafts of loph's on to Tr.peruvianus. The micrograft(5mm dia.) went soft and formed roots prior to shrivelling death. However the other graft(a 20mm dia. Loph) was a sucsess. The Loph graft is now 40mm dia. and 20mm high. The Tr.peruvianus understock has developed 4 shoots from its base. Does enyone know if I Can divert more energy to the growth of the Loph graft by cutting off the shoots ? Or should I just leave them on ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
earthalchemist Posted March 1, 2001 Does enyone know if I Can divert more energy to the growth of the Loph graft by cutting off the shoots ? Or should I just leave them on ? removing the pups will definitely help ... and you can just root 'em [This message has been edited by earthalchemist (edited 02 March 2001).] Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
