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Shotgun fruiting chamber

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+1 on the Otto tec

EDIT - it really is genius

Edited by waterboy
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and is an invention of a member of ours. :P

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and is an invention of a member of ours. :P

But is it listed here?

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I'll be giving that idea a go thanks Pimento,, and I'm thinking it would be a great way to introduce the cultures to outdoor locations when colonised,, what's ur thoughts? Also, are there any types of coir to avoid,, I have read some have high salt content left in them from lazy flushing/rinsing....

Works well for transfers to garden beds n outdoor .... :)

Imo usually the loose bagged coir for 15-20$ a bag is nicer than the 3-5$ bricks.

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pulled 3 bunches of these out of a shotgun fruiting chamber last week.

king oysters

they started as foot long straw logs in a larger grow chamber. they

fruited for several months until I needed room for another project.

so I striped them back and soaked them for a day and jammed 3 of

these logs in the shotgun tub and filled half way up with coir.

I thought they were done after not seeing pins for a week.

had a close look today and found a pin.

king oyster pin

had a little scratch around in the coir and found the myc was getting into
the coir.
I hope, I just get one fruit this time. kings can get huge growing in singles.
Edited by lindsay
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Its worth reading through the thread, he never wrote a tek on it, but that thread describes everything in detail. There are four holes around the top, and two near the substrate level. The holes are covered with micropore tape, and the substrate is spawned in the bucket, leveled out, and a shower cap thrown over the top, pushed down, and the bucket is thrown under a blanket to colonise.

Once colonised and starting to fruit, the shower cap can be lifted up to increase fresh air. To fan the bucket, the shower cap can be lifted up and down like a lung - pulling in filtered air through the micropore covered holes. The best option however is to have a small fan on in the room, but not pointing at the buckets, to keep air circulating. This eliminates the need to maually fan and basically keeps them as a completely automated neglect tek. You can mist every few days if you want to stop things drying out.

The whole thing is protected from fungal gnats so these won't ever be a problem again using buckets, and if a contamination occurs in a bucket, its isolated from the other buckets and can be disposed of easily.

These can be used to fruit anything, King oysters perform really well in buckets.

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I also read through this bucket tek thread on Shroomery a while ago and I have to admit, to get all the info it was slightly frustrating having to read through all 8 pages to pick up the tips and little things he did instead of having a proper tek to follow.

I'm still very keen to try this one day though.

One good tip that was hidden somewhere further through the thread was that unless you have very dark plastic buckets that you should wrap dark, opaque duct tape, (or similar opaque tape), around the botttom of the bucket and up the sides to just above the substrate level to stop light going through the sides of the plastic bucket and making mushrooms pin on the sides of the substrate instead of the mushrooms growing up to the light at the top of the bucket. Someone tried the bucket tek and had this problem and was then set straight in another comment.

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I think he didnt bother writing a specific tek because it was as easy as you see in the photos - spawn in a bucket, put on a shower cap and colonise/fruit. Its that easy.

Here is a link to a more detailed explanation - http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/18892960/fpart/1/vc/1

And another one here - http://www.shroomery.org/forums/showflat.php/Number/9501009

There is lots of talk these days about side pinning happening not because of light hitting the substrate, but because the substrate pulls away slightly from the side of the container and provides a brilliant micro-climate for the pinning to happen on the sides. That seems to be the consensus rather than light.

Edited by Hyphal
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I did only say "slightly frustrating" ;) Cause I'm very much a complete noob at growing mushrooms I probably had more questions than a more experienced cultivator so I guess that's why I thought the few tips to be found further throughout the thread were valuable and would have been good to have been collated at the start of the thread. But I'm not trying to take anything away from the tek or its effectiveness, don't get me wrong!

But cheers for those other shroomery links, I already read the first one but not the second you posted.

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zed - I wouldn't bother with the dark tape. Mushrooms pin where they pin, light isn't the trigger. Sure, they'll grow towards the light once they are going though. I think if it pins down the side, it'll do it in coloured vessel. What I believe is causing pins at that level is a tiny air gap, which then has VERY high humidity...the Co2 and high RH down in that gap cause the pinning.

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I did only say "slightly frustrating" ;) Cause I'm very much a complete noob at growing mushrooms I probably had more questions than a more experienced cultivator so I guess that's why I thought the few tips to be found further throughout the thread were valuable and would have been good to have been collated at the start of the thread. But I'm not trying to take anything away from the tek or its effectiveness, don't get me wrong!

But cheers for those other shroomery links, I already read the first one but not the second you posted.

I agree there should have been a clearer write up from the start, that would have been heaps more helpful...

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wow more I learn the more I need to know. Hyphal and NSF I think your so so right, the pooling

of CO2 seems to be part of the trigger to pinning. so many times I have seen were I cut my

bags of a inch higher than the substrate that they have pined better across the sub than

bags cut level too. the bags cut level too, will in most cases pin in that gully around the edges.

CO2 settles to the bottom - so I believe. this is why I have always put my out going air in my

grow chambers at the bottoms of my grow chambers.

wow now I am thinking is it better to fluctuate fresh air exchange than to have a consistent

FAE?

dam it! now i have more experiments. Fantastic guys.

in nature we have a more of a mixture of high and low humidity and high and low CO2

in autumn and spring in the temperate zones at ground level - so I believe.

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Agrocybe aegerita likes to side pin. Sometimes they find their way to the top but I wont fruit them in a container again...

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that's maybe why a casing layer is recommended for agrocybe to get a reliable pining across the surface.

I have missed the boat to grow these this year indoors- well they do call them winter mushroom.

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Ok, I support this bucket idea all the way! One brf cake produced bigger, and more per flush by the bucket tek, than leaving as a cake in the fc! and I thought the brf shotgun tek was easy ;-) many thanks!

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Ok, I support this bucket idea all the way! One brf cake produced bigger, and more per flush by the bucket tek, than leaving as a cake in the fc! and I thought the brf shotgun tek was easy ;-) many thanks!

I like it :)

Try 2 cakes per bucket if your able, faster colonisation and larger flushes.

Once the first flush is finished, very slightly dampen the substrate with boiled clean cold water and recover the bucket, this can provide a good second flush and then maybe a third.

post-13829-0-67641700-1411875109_thumb.j

Edited by pimento
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Bloody hell pimento!!!! Either you got baby hands or that's a hell of a mushroom!!! Nice pics mate.

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