theuserformallyknownasd00d Posted November 6, 2012 Hi guys I've recently done about 20 Peres grafts using lophs, mixed trich, Mamm hybrid, random crest section and Turks cap. I've done plenty of reading an searching but have some more specific questions... They were all under cfl lights and 80%+ humidity, for 7-8days, and seem to have taken very securely, although a few look to have only half a size staying down.. At what point should I see new growth for the above cactus? Roughly of coarse depending on environment I guess.. they are all 2-4 weeks out of humidity and I've only notice the loph throw a new set of spines... At what rate should I now water and fertilize? I grab them a good bottom water a few days ago with c.c mixed for seedlings. They are currently under 30watt cfl, no doubt I should increase this?? The Peres is in cacti mix in tube stock pots.. 50mm, should I replant into a more sandy/premium mix? Thanks for reading guys D00d Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr. Bowser Posted November 6, 2012 Some times it takes a while to see growth in the scion when grafting to peres, especially if the peres starts throwing off new shoots instead of investing nutritional resources in the scion. Usually, I see new shoots coming off the peres about the same time I see the scion start to plump up... then I cut off the peres offsets, and the scion takes off. At a month or so, they should be starting to plump up a bit, maybe not noticable growth per se. I usually feed every third or so watering 10-10-10 in soil, or constant 15-15-15 in hydro culture. The peres can be overwatered like crazy, but that might cause splitting or overgrowth in the scion... once they start taking off. The CFL is good for peres and new grafts, you don't want to shock them/de hydrate them with too intense light. I also usually dial back the ferts until the grafts take. Once they are showing new growth then ramp it up if the scion will be ok with it. My peres grow just fine in cheap cactus soil, and even better in top soil / compost / coir (60-70 %) with some sand and pumice, this mix holds much more water than ordinary cactus soil. Kadasgarden webpage has some great info on peres grafting and soil types 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stillman Posted November 6, 2012 Once the graft has taken and shows good signs of growth (all scions seem different in my experience) ie scion has doubled in size I take it out of the humidity chamber. You don't need to leave it this long but the plants really like humidity. Then I just high feed them. full nutes every day in hot weather. I use searls premium potting mix for peres, but I don't think they are fussy. Hot and humid = happy peres in my experience anyway. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr. Bowser Posted November 7, 2012 You don't need to leave it this long but the plants really like humidity. great point! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theuserformallyknownasd00d Posted November 7, 2012 Good replies folks thanks soooo much! It's good knowing I was doing it OK all along :-P The kadasgarden link it where I based everything I did off! Next time I'll defiantly leave them for longer in the humidity Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GoOnThen Posted November 7, 2012 If you leave them in humidity for extended period of time just keep an eye on them. I normally take them out if the get any orange on the union. Cheers Got Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theuserformallyknownasd00d Posted November 7, 2012 Cheers got, I don't have any orange bits, but I have noticed the loph I mentioned that's plumped up nicely has a spot of orange on the top. I'm not too worried as it seems to be powering above the rest, but I'm assuming this was the start of rot? Possibly a drop of water got on it?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theuserformallyknownasd00d Posted November 7, 2012 I also got a new bulb upping the wattage to 40w, warm white. It's approx 3-6 inches away from the plants depending on where they sit Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nitrogen Posted November 7, 2012 I've heard mixed things about how long to leave them in high humidity.. A comrade of mine says he just keeps pereskiopsis grafts in humidity for 24 hours.. I've been doing 2-4 days - seems to work pretty well - about 80% of them take.. I depends on how humid the climate is though - I reckon some places don't need it for as long.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snowfella Posted November 7, 2012 Quick question here, turks cap as in Melocactus? Your not nervous about degrafting and later rooting them knowing how tender their roots are? I've got some Melo seedlings that I have been thinking about grafting but keep on holding back as I just don't know if they will root once degrafted. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sallubrious Posted November 7, 2012 Quick question here, turks cap as in Melocactus? Your not nervous about degrafting and later rooting them knowing how tender their roots are? I've got some Melo seedlings that I have been thinking about grafting but keep on holding back as I just don't know if they will root once degrafted. You could always re-graft to a more hardy rootstock after it reaches maturity and starts flowering. Some of the opuntias make a good long term stock, I've been using Opuntia inamoena which is a miniature form that roots readily. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- For my Peres grafts I've been using the clingwrap method where you cover the graft with clingwrap and then secure the clingwrap to the stem of the Peres with a clothes peg. I only wait about 5 days with clingwrap on (which creates a humid zone around the graft) and then put them straight into the open air. I leave them inside in the shade for a few days and Ithen get them outside under shadecloth for about a week and then start moving them to brighter spots over the next few weeks. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snowfella Posted November 7, 2012 Doubt I really could find a stock that could hold the size these potentially grow into unless I go with a decent sized golden barrel. The mother plant I got the seed from is a good 15cm in diameter and about the same height, grafting that would end up like a golfball on a tee in the end. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sallubrious Posted November 7, 2012 I've got to admit I forgot how big they get. With the Opuntias as a stock you can bury the entire stock so the plant just looks like a normal plant that hasn't been grafted. I have Opuntias with pads that grow almost two inches thick. I've never tried them with melo's though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theuserformallyknownasd00d Posted November 7, 2012 Never really thought of that snowfella! Just used them to gain some experience at the fidly side of getting my grafts perfect! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stillman Posted November 7, 2012 I'm going to do about 40 tricho peres grafts today. Its a nice muggy day have my chamber ready New blades done my stretches... I'm ready to cut some shit up. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theuserformallyknownasd00d Posted November 8, 2012 Awesome man! I'm just waitin on some Peres to root and then ill be practicing heaps more!! My mother plants have really taken off of late! I finally got the watering schedule down and am learning the Peres quite well.. They've put out at least 1m worth of growth for me on the last fortnight! I also sowed a few hundred loph seed which I'm very excited to be able to play with!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flumsquid Posted November 10, 2012 Opuntia can also be grafted with laying the pad down sideways and do an areole graft. This will hold large scions when using large opuntia pads as stock Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
2Deep2Handle Posted November 11, 2012 I usually have close to 100% sucess with pere as stock, and following scions; ariocarpus,copiapoa, lophophora and turbinicarpus, but ive tried 5 Turks Cap (Melocactus peruvianus), and only had 1 sucess . When it gets too big for the pere, it will go on some tricho stock, and hopefully will re-pup on the pere......i also have 40 seedlings 3 months old, and 4 that are a year old, so like DoodAbides, is more just for teh lolz than anything. Kinda like my "Tim's Penis" i made! :S Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theuserformallyknownasd00d Posted November 12, 2012 I'm going to do another 10 or so grafts today and give sallyd's cling wrap method a go. I'm also going to do some new Peres cuttings and trialling a 30/40/30 mix of sand/coco/perlite that will go under CFL with hydroponic nutrients (dutchfest grow A-B solution with canna rhizo). Due to my living arrangements most of my propagation and cacti grafting is done indoors under lights. I am currently trialling a greenhouse I constructed with temp/humidity controls and exhaust for less than $60 (incl heating&cooling and humidity generator). So far so good but it'll require a few more weeks monitoring before I entrust my whole operation in it! Ill post pics when I've nutted it out properly, but it should be able to hold 120-140+ Peres grafts in 1" tube stock pots. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Psylo Posted November 12, 2012 Over the past three months, snails have demolished all of my pereskiopsis, maybe 12 of them. Anyone else find that the slimy little fuckers seem to find peres more tasty than any other plant in their garden? It brings them in armies, and when they visit, they now go for the established columnar cacti too. PS - Wanted: Pereskiopsis spathulata Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theuserformallyknownasd00d Posted November 12, 2012 Caterpillars are the fuckers after my Peres! Ill sen u some psylo with the scelly I'm sending. They won't be in th best of nick but will propagate fine... My flatty recently mowed my Peres patch :-/ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GoOnThen Posted November 12, 2012 Over the past three months, snails have demolished all of my pereskiopsis, maybe 12 of them. Anyone else find that the slimy little fuckers seem to find peres more tasty than any other plant in their garden? It brings them in armies, and when they visit, they now go for the established columnar cacti too. PS - Wanted: Pereskiopsis spathulata Snails totally striped my mother plants over winter and that and the fact they were suffering from the cold I just had a pile of green sticks with spines. After getting the snails under control the are starting to re shoot with the warmer weather. There is also a green grub / caterpillar that munches through mine each year and the are really hard to see. I made the mistake last year of taking some cuttings and putting them in my propagation box without checking them properly and the next time I looked in there one of the little bastards had chomped its way through half of my grafting stock. Cheers Got Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nitrogen Posted November 12, 2012 Yea those caterpillers are a big issue here on pereskis also - I don't like killing things, and I love butterflies, but it's game over if I catch anything eating my cacti.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theuserformallyknownasd00d Posted November 12, 2012 A bit of pyrethrum spray once a week should fix the caterpillars and there is organic snail pellets available which are pet friendly and break down to nutrients for the pesky snails! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GoOnThen Posted November 12, 2012 I do use the pet friendly snail pellets these days as I have a nutjob of a dog but I find they break down really fast when they get wet so in winter you have to just about apply weekly. One day I will get my green house finished and a lot of my problems will be solved. One day......................................................................... Cheers Got 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
