mayarose Posted November 14, 2010 The All American is also made from aluminium but it's thick as hell and it will last a life time. It also has less parts and a metal to metal seal system so you don't have to replace bits of rubber etc. Change your order and buy it! You shall not regret it, sir! I'm hearin ya migraineur, but can't justify the folding at this point. I've already had to use the old, "but its half price compared to what I'd pay here" - plea to get the presto. Asking for double that again might cost me the lot... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shortly Posted November 14, 2010 I'm hearin ya migraineur, but can't justify the folding at this point. I've already had to use the old, "but its half price compared to what I'd pay here" - plea to get the presto. Asking for double that again might cost me the lot... I hear your pain Mayarose, Oh the deals i had to do to get my laminar flow Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
migraineur Posted November 14, 2010 I hear your pain Mayarose, Oh the deals i had to do to get my laminar flow Does anyone know where I can get reasonably priced secondhand laminar flowhoods in Western Australia? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mesq Posted February 1, 2011 All American Is the bomb - solid as. Next time I am going to get an electric one as the manual ones take a bit of knob jockeying to get the temperature right. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shortly Posted February 5, 2011 Ha ha I'm set I spent most of the past 2 days welding Ally for a bloke so out of appreciation he's ordered & paid for a brand spankin All American 25 Quart PC for me. Just the basic one, not the electric model. Cant wait for it to arrive Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shortly Posted February 22, 2011 My 25 Quart AA arrived this morning, what a beast Cant wait to run it with a full load. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NSF Posted February 22, 2011 My 25 Quart AA arrived this morning, what a beast Cant wait to run it with a full load. You lucky son of a gun. I realise you didn't pay for it, or pay for shipping but where'd it get sent to you from and how much was the shipping? I only ask because $190 shipping are the quotes I'm getting...sheesh! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
migraineur Posted February 22, 2011 I had to pay about $150 for shipping for my 921 before the Aussie dollar was so good. Not you can get the 921 sent cheaply from Amazon. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shortly Posted February 22, 2011 You lucky son of a gun. I realise you didn't pay for it, or pay for shipping but where'd it get sent to you from and how much was the shipping? I only ask because $190 shipping are the quotes I'm getting...sheesh! It did cost me 2 days of toil & about a 1/4 of a D sized bottle of gas & some electricity. It came from Bismarck, ND I think the total was about Au $350ish, i actually didnt ask. Askin that kinda thing feels like asking a woman her age I've noticed it takes forever to cool down, its gonna be an over nighter every time i run it i think. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yaguareté Posted February 22, 2011 Gotta love the barter system happy pc'ing mate. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tripsis Posted February 22, 2011 Bloody oath, what a score. I'd love to get an AA941 one day. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shortly Posted February 22, 2011 Thanks guys I'm thinking the 941 and maybe a 910 or possibly the 915 are looking good at this point. It takes it soooo long to cool down it would be nice to have the extra capacity there to make cranking up the laminar worthwhile. But I don't have the $'s so i'll just have ta wait & see what the universe tosses my way. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Magicdirt Posted February 22, 2011 (edited) ` Edited May 8, 2011 by Magicdirt Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NSF Posted February 22, 2011 Yeah you wouldn't want to risk cooling that sucker in a sink filled with water like you can with a stainless steel PC, the aluminium could crack or distort. I remember reading that autoclaves use a filter similar to a syringe filter that gets attached to the relief valve when it's in the cooling phase so it doesn't suck in any contaminants during cooling. I don't know how important it is for home use though, Roger Rabbit said something about letting it cool in a clean environment, I think he did it in his bedroom. I was under the impression (prepared to be told I'm wrong) that when they cooled they formed a vacuum, then when it comes to time to open them (like RR does) you do it in front of your flow hood, so it can only suck in clean air (his flowhood is in his bedroom). But maybe the vacuum only happens on the steriliser not on the pressure cooker? You can change one or two parts on the PC to make it a steriliser...what are they? Is it hard to do? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
migraineur Posted February 23, 2011 If I want mine to cool down fast I take the lid off and then just put some foil over the top so the heat escapes faster. I then leave it in my already clean room that's being used for myco work. I haven't had any contamination yet and the jars also have foil wrapped around the top so water doesn't drip down into them during sterilisation. I have only done this with jars so far though and not mycobags. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shortly Posted February 23, 2011 I was under the impression (prepared to be told I'm wrong) that when they cooled they formed a vacuum, then when it comes to time to open them (like RR does) you do it in front of your flow hood, so it can only suck in clean air (his flowhood is in his bedroom). But maybe the vacuum only happens on the steriliser not on the pressure cooker? You can change one or two parts on the PC to make it a steriliser...what are they? Is it hard to do? The PC definitely doesn't form a vacuum, so i will be tossing a rag over the weight while it cools. Too bloody hot & heavy to be attempting to move it. It looks like changing it from a PC to a sterilizer will be as simple as unscrewing the vent/mount for the weight & thread in the sterilizer toggle valve. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NSF Posted February 23, 2011 Does that then mean it forms a vacuum as it cools if you make this mod? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tripsis Posted February 23, 2011 Yes, the toggle valve converts it to a steriliser, meaning no steam escapes during heating and no air enters during cooling. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NSF Posted February 23, 2011 Yes, the toggle valve converts it to a steriliser, meaning no steam escapes during heating and no air enters during cooling. No steam escapes during heating...oh wait, just as I typed that I realised what you said...no steam escapes during heating (but does escape once desired pressure is reached?) and then as the pressure drops (heat input ceases) then no air enters. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tripsis Posted February 23, 2011 Not entirely sure of the technicalities, but there's a blow-out valve (for safety), but other than than, I think the user is supposed to maintain the correct pressure themselves. Other than that, I believe it basically seals it completely. Could be wrong, I've not really looked into it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shortly Posted February 23, 2011 Not entirely sure of the technicalities, but there's a blow-out valve (for safety), but other than than, I think the user is supposed to maintain the correct pressure themselves. Other than that, I believe it basically seals it completely. Could be wrong, I've not really looked into it. That's it exactly: there is a rubber blow-out valve, its sacrificial so once it blows out it's supposed to be replaced. It means that as a steriliser you need to either sit constantly monitoring the pressure unless you are lucky enough to have super constant heat source. That's probably why the AA sterilisers with built in heating element & thermostat are so popular in the US. My bosses stove has a glass top so theres no way mine is going on there, so i have to do the old fashioned burn shite for heat. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tripsis Posted February 23, 2011 (edited) What about a cast iron gas ring burner? Edited February 23, 2011 by tripsis Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shortly Posted February 24, 2011 So far I have tried the gas BBQ and my rocket. And both have needed constant fiddling, The rocket also needs constant feeding and cant be turned down quickly. The old wood stove will be next but i suspect that it will be just as fiddly as the BBQ. I though about a gas ring burner and may go that way but i get the feeling that it will need just as much attention as the gas BBQ to keep the temp/pressure constant. This is going to be a balancing act between my time, fuel, effectiveness and safety. Just have to run it several times on each cooker & see what works for me i guess. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tripsis Posted February 24, 2011 I've used one and it was good, but not on a steriliser, a 50L pressure cooker, which of course vented steam constantly, so didn't require constant attention. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shortly Posted February 24, 2011 I was just being stingy with the gas, trying to keep it at 15PSI with the absolute Min of gas. The rocket does need constant attention though, no way around that that i can see. Plus it says to NEVER let it run dry, and i'm still getting a feel for how much water it looses as a PC. So far only about 500ml over 230 minutes Guess i didn't really need to put 5L in there after all. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
