ferret Posted February 2, 2010 little more than 2 months since treatment, cutting looks like it has struck! lateral cutting treated with rootex 4g/L gel diluted to approx 2/3 strength with acetone, dipped for 40 secs and air dried for 30s to evap acetone. refer to- Dawson and King. Propagation of some woody Australian plants from cuttings. Australian Journal of Experimental Agriculture 34(8) 1225 - 1231 now, how to procure some straight up IBA to dissolve in acetone at 4g/L and higher to start working on some rarer species... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chiral Posted February 2, 2010 Nice work ferret, Did you a lot, or just the one...just trying to get an idea of the strike rate...? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
prier Posted February 2, 2010 Fuckin nice one! I can't wait to give this another crack. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ferret Posted February 2, 2010 i did 3, 2 wilted within a week or so. and this one sat there lookin green and just recently got nice turgid phyllodes.. hoping for some fresh growth to push out and then i will get it outta the pot and see whats happening downstairs. im hoping 4g/L will give a better strike rate, but 1/3 aint bad for this one in my opinion. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sharxx101 Posted February 2, 2010 Nice work Ferret, well done Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tripsis Posted February 2, 2010 Nice work! Do you have access to the full article, or did you just glean what info you needed from the abstract? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kindness Posted February 2, 2010 stylin' well done If you've got a well established plant I wonder if disturbing the roots will encourage it to sucker as they do extensively in the wild? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
planthelper Posted February 2, 2010 thats very good news, and congratulations for achieving this very special task! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ferret Posted February 3, 2010 Nice work! Do you have access to the full article, or did you just glean what info you needed from the abstract? ive got the full pdf here, dont think i can put it up here as far as i know? anyone who wants it pm me your email and ill send it to ya. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MindExpansion Posted February 3, 2010 awesome stuff man. congrats Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Micromegas Posted February 4, 2010 Awesome work ferret. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ferret Posted February 4, 2010 well curiousity got the better of me and i pulled it out to repot, a little prematurely.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GingaNinja Posted February 4, 2010 great work none the less. hopefully it powers on Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mycot Posted February 5, 2010 (edited) This is excellent work Ferret. The first report I know of where an acacia species of Acacia sect;Juliflorae (that acacia sect that many of our favorite acacia species belong to) has been successfully propagated by cuttings. Congrats. You rock. This is indeed very encouraging news for anyone contemplating growing from cuttings plants of Acacia sect;Juliflorae. A wave of experimentation with plants of this sect therefor seems called for. Combined with refinement of technique to maximise strike rates and we'll have this thing nailed. The second pic seems to show a strong root attachment and has a taproot-like appearance. For the benefit of horticulturists here, when repotting to a larger/deeper pot one should do the transfer with minimal to no root disturbance if possible as many Australian plants are very sensitive to root disturbance. This means to tranfer the entire plant, soil and all with minimal disturbance to the larger container. Edited February 5, 2010 by Mycot Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
strangebrew Posted February 23, 2010 Yet another thumbs down for commercial IBA talc preps. http://www.publish.csiro.au/paper/EA9941225.htm For successful propagation of some woody Australian plants by cuttings it was beneficial to dip the lower 2 cm of the stem in an ethanolic solution of indole-3-butyric acid (IBA). For Chamelaucium uncinatum (Geraldton wax), 90% of cuttings rooted following treatment with the optimal IBA dose of 4000 mg/L for 40 s, while non-treated cuttings rooted poorly or not at all. After 21 days each rooted cutting had formed 4.2 ¦ 0.4 roots, with each root having an average length 42.5 ¦ 3.2 mm. Powder formulations of 3 g IBA/kg talc (0% rooting after 21 days) or a commercial preparation containing 0.05 g ß-naphthaleneacetic acid (NAA) and 0.02 g indole-3- acetic acid (IAA)/kg (30% rooting after 60 days) were less effective. When rooting was rapid, with extensive root formation within 3 weeks, >90% of cuttings survived transplanting. Rapid rooting required the bottom heat of the propagator to be run at 25-30¦C when air temperature was maintained at 20¦C. Rooting was good (85%) for cuttings taken from parent plants grown at 24/19¦C (day/night) and 18/13¦C but was less (43%) for cuttings taken from plants grown at 30/25¦C. Propagation is usually less successful where the stem is woody rather than young and fleshy; parent plant condition, therefore, will have some effect on propagation success. Sixteen other woody Australian species examined also rooted well when propagated with a quick dip in a solvent-IBA mix and had a similar positive response to root-zone warming. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ferret Posted February 24, 2010 (edited) yep talc mixes are usually disappointing. if thats all you can access, maybe you can extract the IBA into acetone , let talc settle and pipette off the acetone. pain in the ass though as you need to squeeze like 15g of the strongest talc mix i can find into 30 mL of acetone to reach the optimum strength! either that or might be worth a try dipping the cut in acetone and then into the talc-IBA mix? oh yeah i forgot to mention, this cutting had some bottom heat for about 2 weeks , i took it off when summer kicked in because it was really baking some other cuttings at ≈35 C. a couple of finer roots poking out the drainage holes now Edited February 25, 2010 by ferret Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ferret Posted March 27, 2010 damn, my last trial has gone to shit after leaving the top off my humidity chamber and going away for a week. bone dry.. starting again... on a brighter note the cutting pictured above has grown one nice new healthy phyllode and signs of more on the way! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ferret Posted April 25, 2010 another cutting treated with 4g/L IBA in acetone, has a root emerging from the bottom of the pot after just under 2 months. looks like bottom heat is unnecessary. this one was in a large plastic tub covered loosely with a sheet of green plastic, in morning sun. layer of wet scoria in the bottom for a tiny bit of humidity. with this treatment it seems if you can keep the cutting alive for 2 months you should get roots. i.e. prevent wilting of the phyllodes and keep cutting hydrated , and avoid rotting from the bottom up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
spunwhirllin Posted April 25, 2010 (edited) Great to hear of your success,outstanding Time to try with the phleb? Edited April 25, 2010 by spunwhirllin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MORG Posted April 26, 2010 Sorry for the silly question... but what do you mean precisely by 'lateral cutting'? I'm keen to give this a shot, but thinking this time of year may be a bad one to be expecting cuttings to take. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ferret Posted April 26, 2010 keen to try it out on phleb, will see if i can find some material to give it a go in spring.. trying out an acuminata at the moment , fingers crossed. saw some floribunda at bunnings the other day which looked like they were from cuttings too. also they had the floribunda x genistifolia "Abundance" cultivar which has been vegetatively propagated.. an interesting cross between sections juliflorae and phyllodineae. i really think we can figure out a reliable protocol for most if not all acacia's we are interested in, obtusifolia so far has been waaay easier than most native's i have tried, some of which have taken 6 months and more to do anything! check the table at the bottom of this article for some acacia's the author had success with. Wattle It Be? By Seed or Cuttings? by lateral cutting i mean the side shoots or branches, rather than the tip of the plant, though thats not to say that the tip would not work, it's all i had to work with. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerbil Posted April 26, 2010 excellent work fezza, dedicated :D hybrid sounds interesting, quite complimentary species you'd think in hybrid outcome, bit of a compact inbetweeneer, end up with short and long spined / thin, short and long phyllode'd. the genistifolia although a local struggles a bit 'round here, floribunda the outtaplacer thrives . Some floribunda round here looks like it's sorta layered itself a bit as it's grown, so wouldn't doubt as a decent cutting tree, main trunks can sometimes be quite flat to the ground, snake along a bit and then fan out, extending their territory a bit more, not overly common, but still potential. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sola Posted July 16, 2010 Incredible! Had no idea this was possible with Acacia's. I'm definitely going to experiment with a few different species. Congratulations! I hope you ond others have continued success. Have to admit the acetone recipe/info. is right on the edge of my chemistry understanding unfortunately. I'm sure I'll nut it out...the incentive's there! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ENtiTY Posted July 27, 2010 Nice work bud. I have been looking for seed in the last few days and all the place I used to buy from seem to have dried up. I will definatley give this a crack but could you share some specifics please? What time of year did you take successful cuttings? Could prolly figure it from post dates but it would be handy to have a range stated for easy reference. What type of material were the successful cuttings take from? Soft, semi-hard or hard? Looks like a semi-hard cutting in the pic. I appologise if the questions above have already been answered already. Awesome work ) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
