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Found 1 result

  1. Currently I'm making perfumes again, after a long break Although the psychoactivity of many essential oils and odors like Oud (Agarwood), Helichrysum italicum, Cestrum nocturnum- flower odor, Alepidea amatymbica- root odor, Indole-alkaloid- odor, Lemonmyrtle, Lavender and others, is relative and depends on the personal susceptibility, there are many compounds in essential oils, which have definitely CNS- effects, like Myristicin, Safrole, Asarone, Ledol, Eugenol, Polygodial, Elemicin and the compounds in Kaempferia galanga-oil and Salvia lavandulifolia. But for example Thujon was shown to be NOT an active constituent in Absinthe, which depends more on marketing. First of all, it has to be said that about 99% of all the perfumes on the market, also the expensive ones, are composed mostly if not completely of synthetics. They are so much cheaper and nowadays composing a perfume is pure chemistry and to be in line with trends. Also the price of the perfumes depends on marketing and the flakon, and at least the (cheap) constituents. After all it is surely possible to make real art with synthetics or semi-synthetics, and of course there are many safe synthetics and some toxic natural compounds, but why imitating jasmine instead of taking the real thing, for example? Most synthetics, also aldehydes, musk and marine notes can be back-replaced by natural oils, extracts and absolutes. I only have 3 synthetics for odors which are not replaceable by naturals, but I use only one of them regularily: Iso E Super. Over the years I collected many interesting odors and essential oils, and now my odor-collection comprises: 105 natural essential oils and absolutes from plants and fungi 101 natural extractions (direct or from enfleurage) in 80% alcohol 4 natural compounds like Vanilline, Borneol, Indol and Camphor 2 semi-synthetics (hydroxycitronellal and bitter almond aka benzaldehyde) 3 synthetics (Iso E Super, Apple, Banana) Most of the essential oils and absolutes came from Primavera, they only sell naturals. The Brasilian Rosewood, Oud and Sandelwood from them are certified and from cultivated sources. The alcohol extractions were made by myself. All of them can be completely divided in odor groups: Citrus / Citral: Lemongrass, Orange, Neroli, Bergamotte, Grapefruit, Lemon, Nashia inaguensis, Backhousia citriodora, Lemon balm, Lemon basil, Petitgrain, Tangerine, Leptospermum citratum, Satureja biflora, Olibanum from Somalia and Oman, Kaffir-lime leaves, Sichuan pepper from Nepal, Zanthoxylum sancho leaves Green: Boxwood leaves, Galbanum, Green tea, Iris, Geranium (Pelargonium graveolens) Adehydes: Cilantro leaf, Cinnamon, Jasmine, Wild cherry, Orange, Calamus, Bitter almond, Perilla leaf, Acacia farnesiana flower, Metallic / Fresh: Limnophila aromatica, Violet leaf Watery / Marine: Nori alga, Kombu alga, Sargassum, Limnophila aromatica, Violet leaf Iris / Violet flower: Iris root (Orris root) absolute, Violet flower, Acacia farnesiana flower Powdery: Iris, Violet flower, Vanilla, Rose, Musk (Ambrette seeds), Opoponax, Cola nut, Oud (Agarwood), Neroli, Benzoe, Sassafras, Lavender, Sandelwood (New Caledonia), Tonka bean Floral: Jasmine, Chamomile (blue), Neroli, Champaca, Rose, Lotus, Palmarosa, Yarrow, Lavender, Rhododendron (Himalaya), Helichrysum, Brasilian Rosewood, Manuka, Linaloe wood, Ratrani (Cestrum nocturnum), Ylang-Ylang (organic), Linden flower, Rhodiola root, Hydroxycitronellal, Tuberose, Acacia farnesiana flower, Geranium (Pelargonium graveolens) Lily / Muguet (Lily of the valley): Hydroxycitronellal Fruity: Wild cherry (natural), Apple (synth.), Banana (synth.), Red apple (natural), Australian bushtomato, Goji berries, Roman Chamomile (odor like apple), Juniper berries, Limnophila aromatica (odor like melon), Hunza apricot, Damson plum Aromatic / Herbal: Thyme, Tarragon, Clary wort, Cannabis, Chaste tree, Cologne mint, Green tea, Labdanum, Juniper berries, Cola nut, Caraway, Somalia sage, Wild/ creeping thyme, Fabiana imbricata, Ledum groenlandicum, Cumin, Aromatic / Warm / Spicy: Calamus, Nutmeng, Hay, Tulsi, Patchouli, Caneel cinnamon, Cardamom, Coriander, Bay (allspice), Spikenard, Sassafras, Fennel, Clove, Valerian, Ginger, Pepper, Galanga, Pink pepper, Wild cardamom, Grains of paradise (melegueta), Saffron from Tibet, Elemi, Maori-Kava leaf, Perilla leaf, Anise Aromatic / Camphor / Fresh: Hyssop, Eucalyptus, Camphor, Borneol, Ravensara, Rosmary, Myrtle, Laurel, Niaouli, Cajeput, Wormwood, Salvia lavandulifolia, Wintergreen, Tea tree, Boldo, Horopito, Meadowsweet, Camphor, Borneol, Eriocephalus africanus, Juniper wood Mint: Nana mint, Pepper mint, Cologne mint, Tasmanian mintbush Sulfur: elemental, natural S in EtOH Oud / Agarwood: Agarwood scented smoke enfleurage, Oud oil Nutty / Coconut / Rice: Maledives coconut (ripe), Jojoba, Oud, Coriander, Bitter almond, Pandanus leaf (odor like rice) Cocoa / Carob: Cocoa extract, Wild cocoa, Cola nut Coffee: Coffee, Wild coffee Sourly: Kombu alga, Maledives coconut (ripe), Grains of paradise (melegueta), Champaca Amber / Dry: Fossil amber Balsamic: Sandelwood from New Caledonia, Sandelwood, Opoponax, Myrrh from Yemen, Cedar, Clary wort, Canada balsam, Cade (Juniperus oxycedrus) Musk: Ambrette seeds, Costus, Patchouli, Angelica dahurica root, Iso E Super Narcotic: Ratrani (Cestrum nocturnum), Champaca, Jasmine, Tuberose, Alepidea amatymbica, Ylang-Ylang (organic) Milky: Maledives coconut (fresh), Vanilla, Fig leaf, Honey Sweet: Tahiti- and Raiatea-Vanilla, Bourbon vanilla, Vanilline, Vanilla abs. (organic), Tonka bean, Honeybush, Damiana, Helichrysum, Palo Santo, Styrax, Maltol, Nashia inaguensis, Opoponax, Mondia whytei, Benzoe from Laos, Honey, Guaiac wood, Anise, Acacia farnesiana flower, Cinnamon (organic) Leather: Natural leather composition (with birch tar), Black truffle Smoke / Tar / Phenol: Agarwood scented smoke enfleurage, Birch tar, Peat (baked), Cade (Juniperus oxycedrus) Peat / Earth: Patchouli, Peat (baked), Guaiac wood, Birch tar Woody: Sandelwood, Cedar, Cembra pine, Patchouli, Sassafras, Himalaya fir, Mountain pine, Larch, Iso E Super Indol / Skatol: Dimitri (old, inactive), AMT, Jasmine Animalic / Sweat: Vetiver, Galbanum, Spikenard, Valerian, Costus, Androstenon / Androstenol, Cumin, Iso E Super Tobacco: Chee-tah green tobacco Moss / Oakmoss: Oakmoss abs. Resinous: Bristlecone pine, Coastal Redwood, Kandea from Gabon (Okoumé), Mumio (Shilajit), Breuzinho, Copaiba, Labdanum, Olibanum from Oman and Somalia, Copal from the Huichol, Myrrh from Yemen, Mastix, Elemi, Fabiana imbricata, Birch tar, Juniper wood,
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