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mcgrath111

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About mcgrath111

  • Rank
    Psychonaut

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  • Country
    Australia

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  • Climate or location
    Zone 3 - VIC

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  1. mcgrath111

    IMG_20231112_194523.jpg

    Nic pic is it Cuzco? CLS?
  2. mcgrath111

    Catha edulis seed

    Ah cheers, guess I'll be waiting a few more years haha
  3. mcgrath111

    Catha edulis seed

    Hey mate, how many years did yours take to flower?
  4. mcgrath111

    L. Williamsii

    Wait a couple of months and some should appear. You'll probably have more luck on Facebook on trichocereus auctions Australia, normally appear there.
  5. mcgrath111

    Sacred gardening in the media

    Liam is back, https://amp.abc.net.au/article/102479800
  6. mcgrath111

    Wanted Ario seed

    After ario seed, any variety, wanting to graft some monsters. Have various ethno plants to trade or cash. Pm me. Cheers,
  7. mcgrath111

    Free Astrophytum capricorne seed giveaway (CLOSED)

    Yeah mate, I'm keen!
  8. mcgrath111

    S. divinorum

    Might be able to help, having trouble with pm atm.
  9. Thanks False peyote, have you tried tbis technique for arios? I was thinking that they might be too small to stab? But I'll have to look into this method further.
  10. An update, I've spoken to an experienced grower who reccomends grafting onto pere WITHOUT roots. Similarly, they shared Humboldts opinion that it should be kept about 10-12 days in a humidity chamber. I'll see how this goes and keep people posted in case someone else down the track finds grafting arios difficult. -Mcgrath
  11. Ah awesome, that must be where I'm going wrong. I'll seed how keeping them in humidity /held down for longer works. Cheers mate!
  12. Hi all, I love to graft and grow mutants. However, my ario grafts have a 10-20% success rate, and I can't identify why. https://imgur.com/gallery/6t5KgOi I've tried two methods: 1. If large enough, I put ario seedling onto fresh pere tip and hold onto pere with gladwrap and rubber band. (I've used parafilm before, yet, for me it is hard to align for arios. Normally about a week and then I remove elastic bands/cling film. (Is this too soon to remove for arios? Should it be held down longer?) 2. Humidity chamber. I think this is the go to, yet I'm wondering if I have things too humid, which is causing rot etc. I've provided a photo link above, as the arios appear to be on the vascular bundle, yet many just die over a few weeks. I've trawled through loads of older posts such as peyofox and other grafting threads/ teos book etc. Yet I can figure out why my success rate is soo darn low! My blades are always brand new, so I don't think the issue is a sharp cut. I think it's something to do with the conditions post graft. Any suggestions or what has "uped" your graft game? Many thanks, Mcgrathh
  13. mcgrath111

    Catha edulis

    Hey mate, red or green?
  14. mcgrath111

    exotic cubensis

    .
  15. mcgrath111

    Degrafting tutorials?

    It depends on so many different factors. How, depends on he shape the button has taken. Big clusters generally need to be slowly separated and cut off with a sanitised blade. Removing stock on a trich is relatively easy, compared to removing from an established lw graft on pere. As to when, - Why did you graft in the first place? Seeds? Pups? - Is the stock old/ no longer putting out desire growth. - Has the button begun taking a form you don't like? If I had a big single head lw graft I would degraft, yet mine are all massive clusters and imo there would be no point degrafting,
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