AZS

The definition of a species is not even agreed upon. Here is one... "A species is a lineage, a collection of organisms that share a unique evolutionary history and are held together by the cohesive forces of reproduction" Peruvianus and Pachanoi are genetically "compatible" which is most likely due to a very recent common ancestor but they probably occupied different physical locations - natural habitats - before human intervention which has resulted in a difference in traits. The physical separation of these populations allowed for established separate "reproductive gene pools" which may now be re-mixing due to the physical relocation of specimens by humans.

Early spring is a good time for rooting but you can start at any time of the year- especially if you are concerned with that brown section - although it looks pretty healed up - but i would get those healthy cuttings off and start fresh. Be sure to let the cuttings heal in filtered sunlight - keep them upright for natural growth but keep the base off the ground! - I stand them up on wire mesh under 30% shade cloth for several weeks before putting them in DRY soil and then don't water them until it starts getting warm enough for some really good growth. They won't need any water while it's cool and it is OK to let them get a little thin while rooting, Let the soil dry completely between watering or they may rot. You can tell when they root because they swell up nicely!

BCJLOL!

In the soil (under the canopy of seedlings - not seen but it is there I assure you!) rising about 1.5cm above soil level and penetrating about 2cm into the soil is a thin plastic divider that I cut from a plastic milk container. These plastic dividers make the soil and mat of seedlings just break apart like the wedges from a nice bar of chocolate! I started using this method to maximize the number and types of seedlings I could grow in the limited space under my fluorescent light fixtures - they usually grow for 4 - 6 months indoors and then go outside. After getting the "wedges" separated for each cross, I further break the seedlings apart and put several into a "red solo cup" to grow outside for another year or so before replanting into larger nursery containers / pots etc.

They should be OK for several more months - I don't transplant mine until they are very crowded

I plant in native soil - enriched with a little of my "special compost blend" perhaps 50/50 compost/dirt. Drainage is not a problem here in Phoenix and I don't add expensive coir, perlite, vermiculite, or any rock chips to the mix. All of this was brought in for free - from local sources. It enriches the ground and also works great in pots.

Looks like it has enough water for the rest of the year!

http://naldc.nal.usda.gov/download/41278/PDF

The anticipation was killing us... AWESOME !!! - Seeing is Believing!

If there is a massive grafted loph and nobody can see it, does it really exist?

Yes the fruits "bloom" nicely - and the birds are waiting for them when they do! Sometimes I see the doves just drinking the juice and not even eating the seeds (perhaps they already got their fill) - it's a hard life out in the desert!

Went for another hike in the desert and photographed this Crested Saguaro.

The fruits taste like a fig that is not quite ripe - slightly sweet with lots of tiny seeds!

Seeds arrived - many thanks! Cheers!

Now that's an awesome home-made shade setup! I find that common zip ties break down from UV light in a few months - if you find that to be the case with these you can just use nylon clothesline cut int 6" or so lengths and tie the shade together with square knots - It looks a little ghetto but sure does the trick and lasts many years and can be untied and adjusted if you need to make changes.

Looks a little like "centipede" to me

Very nice! keep them moist for several more months (especially in this valley heat) and give lots of fresh air. I agree - start using a dilute fertilizer solution just don't push them too hard to fast.

Yes they are amazingly robust - monsoon wind is not a problem with these - the PVC bows and flexes with the wind and it passed right through the 30% shade cloth - higher percent cloth pulls more though. If you are completely out in the open use 1.5 - 2" PVC - that's strong stuff when it's bent! Debris is another problem - obviously the cloth can only withstand minimal falling branches etc

The one in the previous photo belongs to a friend. Here is a photo of one of my PVC shade structures. I use whatever I have available! The shade comes off in October ( except for the new seedlings. ) There are also pipe benders available online for metal chain link fence top-rail. Hoop structures of different sizes can be made with them. I haven't used any but they do look promising - has anyone made hoops using any of these? http://www.hoopbenders.net/ http://www.lostcreek.net/ http://www.johnnyseeds.com/assets/information/9018_quickhoops-high-tunnel_bender_instruction-manual.pdf

I like greenhousemegastore for shade cloth but I use the cheaper bulk roll type, usually 30% black. If you don't need too much structural support from monsoon debris you can also save a little money by going with 1" or larger PVC ( 20 foot sticks ) and just stabbing it into the ground (after using an auger to drill holes - alternative method is to adapt a hose to the same size PVC and "water bore" the holes) The arches can be spaced at any interval desired but 4 - 5 feet works OK. The shade cloth should be attached to the PVC and will act as a sun and wind break for the cacti. The PVC will last longer if you put a coat of paint on it to protect from UV.

These seedlings are 19 months old and were grown entirely outdoors in Phoenix, AZ Huanucoensis-X-Z1

Just discovered another crested seedling - that makes 4 so far this year!

Zelly's seedlings - 19 months old in Phoenix under 30% shade - entirely outdoor grown! Juuls-X-Kimnach Lumberjack-X-Juuls