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The Corroboree


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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/07/20 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    G'day g'day I've been growing water kefir grains for 2mths now, my initial purchase of 2tbs grains has since multiplied into enough to do 15ltrs a day. I've started collecting well water off a friend as it's so large I cannot afford to keep it going by buying mineral water haha This got me thinking, what else can be secondarily fermented in the kefir? So I got 5 x 500ml jars and collected some of my favourite ethnobotanicals. Kava, kanna and heimia to name 3. In went a standard dose, plus some for the chef, and I plan to leave them all to ferment for 10-15 days. I rinsed all fresh herb with ISO alcohol and dried after washing off all debris and soil, then plonked into the jars which were sanitised in the dishwasher and the covers (stockings) were sealed in a bag with glen 20 to sanitise. Thus it all should be alright to ferment for 15 days with no contams. I usually secondarily ferment fruits etc for 24hrs so at least I hope they don't contam. I will then bottle each one and let fizz up with a bit of sugar to give me a coca cola fiz biz sorta thingy. It's usually just a flat fiz but if ya leave it for a week they get awesome fiz biz. But the longer ya leave em the stronger and yeastier the flavours become... Sooooo hopefully I can report some interesting experiences in 18-25 days depending on he fiz wait... At worst ill have drank some probiotics..... Peace
  2. 1 point
    You can only get seeds that come from an Eileen plant when the pollen has come from a different father plant, so technically the seeds will always be a hybrid. and therfore those seedlings are not an Eileen clone any more, they will be something like 'Eileen X SS02' which would still be very good or maybe better. Eileen X seeds are rare because Eileen is shy to flower. But one place you can get the seeds is at the misplant website. Just scroll down and look for the word eileen, or use the 'Find' tool for the word eileen. If you don't know what the 'find' tool is then let me know and I'll explain. here's the website https://misplant.net/
  3. 1 point
    I know it's 4 years since the last post but started brewing water kefir recently and was hoping to find some more info on adding things from your garden, more interested in crazy flavours then effects. it's nice with a second ferement with some juice and ginger etc but feel the potential flavour notes that could be hit with some herbs would be crazy.
  4. 1 point
    Hi Regenerat8ion, Sand and vermiculite does not sound like a dangerous combo to me but it is also not the best to keep the seeds hydrated too well. Seeds need to be sufficiently wet for germination to take place and water can easily settle to the bottom of the container if there is too much sand in the mixture. I read about purely vermiculite teks but this material sponges water well and the seeds touching vet vermiculite will be hydrated sufficiently. I use a 3-5mm layer of sand at the top, followed by 2.5-3 cm of finely sieved osmocote all purpose potting mix in the middle and I put a layer of 1.5-2 cm perlite at the bottom. The sand prevents algea and fungi from overrunning small seedlings, potting mix provides water and nutrients for roots and perlite at the bottom wicks excess water, in fact up to 10 times of its mass ! Perlite also helps you see if there is water sitting at the bottom when you are initially pouring some into the container so it makes it very easy not to add excess. In any case I bet your seeds will germinate. Make sure your heating and lighting is suitable and they will go !
  5. 1 point
    Trichos will start to do this when older, but it is not common for the popular aust clones in my experience until quite advanced (with a few exceptions), they tend to get progressively broader by pupping low off of outside branches, forming a densely packed mass like halycon says. I grew a bunch of seeds from around chavin, Peru, these show mid-column pupping as a trait at an early age, it was surprising. In your case, however, I suspect the plant is seeking light, the lower areoles are too shaded and crowded to produce the hormones for pupping (my guess). If you grow dense bushes at the base of trichos, they will pup higher up, same with any plant really. Shade has big impact on overall plant form, often positive. I have some plants with very interesting shapes because of this, where they pupped 6ft off the ground (PC). When the bushes are removed, the plant starts pupping from the bottom again. In very dense trichos, the lower branches can shade the interior of the plant, so the main columns in the centre, with time will pup higher up. Nice healthy plants. Edit: I have some plants, a Roseii 2 so-called by its owner, that often aborts flower buds and turns them into branches right at the top. it's a consistent trait. I have to cut the buggers off as it's not a stable situation to have branches that high.
  6. 1 point
    **UPDATE** The seeds that were exposed to freezing temperatures seem to be germinating just fine. I even included a fresh batch of peruvianus of the same type, from the same vendor in the same takeaways I am germinating all in and I can't notice a difference between the fresh ones vs those that saw freezing temperatures. Mind you this was not at -20 as in the freezer itself but at a temperature in the fridge section which caused fruits and eggs to clearly freeze. If it adds to the viability of the seeds on the long run proper freezer storage may even be a superior method. My friends have actually mistakenly put a few hundred seeds into the -20 freezer straight up. It will be interesting to see how those will do and will probably remove any doubts around my question.
  7. 1 point
    Yeah that’s nice and all. But how about a bit of variety next time round hey!!!
  8. 1 point
    Mine is very basic just thought Id add that I use searles cacti potting mix and add about 1:4 coarse sand:pottingmix. Searles is so much better than osmocote, sometimes that stuff is just a shredded tree in a bag.
  9. 1 point
    For trichos, most specialty cactus mixes are probably overkill. You can grow trichos very happily in straight potting mix if you like, as long as it drains well and doesn't contain large pieces of bark/wood. I go pretty heavy with composted manure in my mix for trichos. I usually use a third potting mix (the mix I get is quite fine, no big chunks of bark, if your mix has big chunks, sieve them out), a third composted chicken manure and a third perlite. If I'm feeling fancy I'll add a bit of dolomite, and some palagonite (volcanic mineral). You'll have to work out what suits your climate though. My mix is probably too rich for places that have a long winter. My winter really only lasts for maybe 2 months where the plants go dormant. If you have a long cold wet winter, I'd probably lay off the manure a bit and add more drainage grit.
  10. 1 point
    Hi mate, i will jump in on this since no one else has. To be honest, regarding Trich seeds no idea as i am a total cactus newb. I do however freeze all of my other seeds be they be my next season's vege seeds (i never buy these, have been collecting, freezing over winter and propagating the same ones for well over a decade). I immediately freeze my choof seeds i buy online as well as my wollemi pine seeds, just to name a few. Many seeds freeze over winter, start to thaw early spring and germinate when the temps are within range. Even seeds that this doesn't happen to in nature do not seem to suffer from doing this. I normally defrost in the fridge for a week to simulate the beginning of the spring thaw then germinate. I have had excellent germination rates on seeds which have been in the freezer for literally many years. I guess in my ignorance the quick freeze then defrost again may be a problem, i really don't know but am sure someone else with more knowledge can comment on this. Worse case scenerio, get a heat mat and germinate them now.
  11. 1 point
    woof woof! Tote agree with above ranters. Take pride in what you do and treat it with such respect. fuckya. so with qat suckers i'd wrap the bottom bit(roots) in hand towel moistened with water. doesnt have to be mystical rainwater rh ph'd- just some water....ok, maybe distilled h20 (so you can sleep better). Then put the roots in a plastic lunch bag. Then put the whole lot in another bigger plastic bag. Put that in a square box or plastic bottle cut in half and retaped ...ala HD buttons shipped dry rooted with no soil is better . put them in another container cardboard - steer away from metallic boxes. A very cool acacia guy here once said to me"Yeah charge em bro, charge em for your cuttings! It's the only way they will try harder to keep your little, baby seedling alive......it's because it cost em a few bob"
  12. 1 point
    It's really good that you care about this. I've had stuff arrive smashed, crushed, damaged, broken, fukt, shit on, etc etc etc. it seriously takes the joy right out of the hobby. Remember that feeling you get when you open a parcel to find something you've been waiting on for so long, and you've spent your rent money on it and it just looks so shiny and beautiful, and gives you Goddamn HOPE in the future! That feeling is what makes this hobby so damn awesome. When people just throw their shit in a box and it arrives all smashed up because they couldn't even use a piece of bubble wrap, well that's just rude and insulting. Seriously people, DON'T EVER DO THAT TO ANYONE. It's a DOG ACT Woof Woof Woof! Yeah, it only takes an extra couple mins to find a bloody piece of newspaper or a cardboard tube etc. I always keep my gladwrap tubes for this purpose and actually, 1.25L and 2L pet bottles can be cut up and sticky-taped back together for this purpose. It's not what you get that makes this hobby so awesome, it's what you GIVE. you gotta learn that! (Rant over )
  13. 1 point
    https://cactilicious.com.au/ and trichaustralis on FB are also really good aussie source's for tricho seed
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    Hello lovely people! I have for giveaway one Acacia Courtii plant grown from seed. It is about 4 months old, over 30cm tall & very healthy. I scored the seeds from Flux during his giveaway last year. Free pick up from Western Sydney region or I kindly ask for $12 for express post (Aus only). First in first served! Happy growing
  16. 1 point
    It really depends on the cross. Anything with scop as either father or mother will look like a scop in my experience. Other crosses will vary, some might lean more towards one or the other parent. Some will be intermediate. Some will be very consistent, some will vary wildly. Shed Validus x roseii 2 for example looks almost nothing like roseii 2. (showing a grafted seedling vs 9 months later) I'm sure others can add their $0.02
  17. 1 point
    I say graft on a couple more lophs!
  18. 1 point
    VRG started out as a big clump of red flowering grandiflorus with 2-3 stems only slightly variegated however when crossed with other trichs a full range of variegation can be seen..... such as mis-val (validus) x vrg to near 100% variegation scop x vrg aka Zelly Oscar consists of 4-5 stems of seed grown plants that can exhibit monstrous / crested genetics. Pics are all oscar mother plants, one of the completely spineless stems flowered this yr Olivia consists of a single stem with a few branches and doesn't exhibit any monstrous genetics Bertha is very similar in growth & looks to LumberJack although crosses both ways have been made... Imo certain hybrids when crossed with other hybrids or clones tend to occasionally produce variegated seedlings... for example the SS02xSS01 plant when crossed with LumberJack or Bertha or Icaros or (insert name) sometimes produces variegated seedlings.
  19. 1 point
    Looking at posts on here as well as trichocereus auctions and SAB on facebook it seems like they are as rare as unicorns. I find short version TBM really ugly. I just want a nice, long, smooth one ;) Why is there none around? Look how beautiful they are: edit: nvm found my answer "Its a slow grower and they throw very few aeroles (for new pups)... Grafted they throw even less... I've had mine for a few years and i've only managed to propagate it couple of times... " http://www.shaman-australis.com/forum/index.php?/topic/46516-wtb-tbm-long-form/&tab=comments#comment-569897
  20. 1 point
    After freezing my collection... down to a very appalling small number now of survivors, I was greeted with signs of flowers today on this little rascal.
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    my hz x scop is budding up again this yr....hopefully she will accept pollen this go around.... pic from last yr....
  23. 1 point
    Experiments done on Hylocereus [Link] found that desiccated pollen freezer stored (-18°C or less) for 9 months was just as viable and vigorous as fresh pollen whereas pollen stored at +4°C degraded in quality. The full text of that paper is accessible for the graphs and table
  24. 1 point
    cute, they look very fleshy and happy , so i think you must have done a good job, and congratulations for your patience. growing by seed youreselfe, is just soo much more rewarding, than just getting an established plant. i would give them one pump, out of a hand mister filled with 1/4 strengh of foliar feeding fertilizer. maybe another pump (just 1 or 2 ml) a week (or more) later, i love feeding seedlings, and i think iboga is a sucker for nutes, but generaly newbies ought to better not use (artifical) ferts on seedlings. if i make a fuzz about a seedling, i would liquid feed already the potting mix a bit. so the seed is born into a nutrient rich enviroment. constant watering over a 3 month germinating time might have leached some or even most of the nutes already out of your potting mix.
  25. 1 point
    I did an experiment where I put several cuttings lying sideways on a weldmesh panel. Half of them had sphagnum placed on top of them and the other half were sitting on a pad of sphagnum. The sphagnum was kept moist, but the rest of the cutting kept dry (out of rain & dew). Roots emerged where the sphagnum was placed at exactly the same average time in both groups. Those with sphagnum on top did not produce any roots at their gravitational bottom. To understand why this happens you need to understand the root structure and growth of cacti. When cacti develop roots they produce sturdy well insulated main roots. These mainlines do not have any absorption ability. In older plants you will get some secondary branching from these main lines which also does not absorb anything. From these main lines the plant develops feeder roots that absorb water and nutrients. So far this is pretty much like any other plant. What is unique about cacti is that when the soil dried up the non-mainline roots die off. But as they die the nutrients are concentrated in nodules just below the surface of the mainline. These nodules then sit in readiness for moisture contact sometimes for several years and respond with an incredible speed. Feeder roots will emerge from these nodules within a matter of hours after rain and will grow at phenomenal rates depending on the quantity of water available. Obviously there are some very strong hormonal influences here to manage this process. Many cacti propagate by falling over and rooting from the side. It would seem logical that the same water sensing/seeking mechanism also applies to the aerial parts of the plant as the same rules of 'survival of the fastest rooter' still apply. Btw, this mechanism is the reason why you should never water a repotted cactus immediately (especially the arid types). When you unpot them you trigger the dying back of the roots no matter how quickly you repot them. So it is best to simply let the roots dry out to the mainlines for 2 weeks and then repot and water. Many cactus growers will repot immediately, but will withhold water for 2-3 weeks. The drying off needs to be complete before the dead tissue is disconnected and the nodules are formed ready to burst back to life. Same principle.