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I'll take that Dicko I'll offer Apple of Peru (Nicandra Physalodes) Shoofly seeds xlots Sundew Alba carnivorous seeds Aji Pineapple chilli seeds x10 Black Prince chilli seeds x10 2 Lots unknown chilli seeds X10 of each one tear drop shape other long purple changing to red Blue Hopi Corn seeds x20 Sunset Boulevard seeds Acacia longfolia seeds x10 Cactus Arboricola x zelly11 seeds x10 Adding Some mixed tobacco seed Toothache plant seeds & Catnip seeds

To be able to keep tabs on numbers and contact details I've set up a hidden item in our webstore for the camping registration. You can't find the item by looking for it in the store. You can only get to it by using this link: http://www.shaman-australis.com.au/shop/camp_site_booking_fee_per_person_pr_2145.php Please register as soon as possible to allow us to start planning for numbers. As with any event, the sooner numbers are known the cheaper it is to get the required facilities. Please note that anyone is welcome, but must have purchased a registration. If you can't afford the registration then talk to us. Registrations are open till the 15th of april, but the sooner you can do it the better we can organise the event. I have also set up a donations section on the forums for anyone wanting to contribute to the camp above and beyond the registration fee. I have not set a goal yet as i am not sure how much we'll need. The toilets alone are $600 for the weekend (for 2 of them). Haven't looked into marquee prices yet. It would also be nice to have some excess to organise a shared meal. I am also working on having a kambo practitioner present for saturday morning. He/she won't be free, but heavily subsidised. This will be a good opportunity to earn your spots without paying the usual $150-$200.

I'm really looking forward to this T. Thank you for making this camping event possible by donating your time and the venue so we can celebrate Christians life. I have donated $50 and I'm registered. Can't wait to see u all in Mullimbimby

Having a kambo practitioner there would be fantastic. Just kicked off the donations with $50

No codeine sux ass! I personally think all opiates suck unless u r in pain. Recreationally I wouldn't go near opiates. Except maybe the occasional O pipe. Kh at is strange. Some days the plant is weak, some days it is strong. Changes daily too. Early morning seems best. U can tell by the taste. Bitter one day, mild the next. Massive wads uncomfortably crammed in the cheeks. Wash down bitter juice with red bull or other cafinated beverage for synergy. U get to a strange state, sumwhat stimulated, but fucked out like alcohol or md gurn. It's definitely not conducive to getting stuff done around the house. Each variety is different. These descriptions are of the PH variety which has narrow leaf genes mixed with red genes. Red alone or narrow alone may be subjectively different. I'd be interested if someone could isolate the (presumably cathedulin) that is responsible for the more inebriating effect. It may be worthy of medical investigation for certain situations.

Seen a few lists cobbled together, so thought I'd try put together a more complete list? If there are any I've missed (no doubt I have) or a clone is under the wrong category, please comment or swing me a PM Bridgesii: 33 Albi Alko Anna Arid Art Baker5452 Ben Bert Bendigo Big Bertha Brad Bruce Cactus Land ? Cliff Con Cornucopia ? Crazy Spine CSD Eileen Emerald City Emma Essendon ? Ferret ? Fields Bridgesii Funkoid Glenrowan Greedo ? Hans ? Helen JB Kai Killer Green Cactus Light ? Lorraine ? Lotusland Lumberjack MB95 Medicine Man Melted Wax Mike (Old Mike - WA) ? Mongy Mum & Dad N1 Nats Wax Psycho0 Serra Canyon ? Sherman Short Spine Sina Sir Jeans SS02 TBM TBM Variegated TBMC TBMC Variegated Tig ? Tim ? Urban Tribes #1 Urban Tribes #2 Wowie Chalaensis: SS04 Knuthianus: Bluth Fields Knuthianus SS03 Macrogonus: Bendy ? Fields Macrogonus Hyperspacepixie ? Tipz Tripsis ? Pachanoi: Alf Altmans Monstrose ? Awful Bogan Capel Clone One (MT01) Clone Two (MT02) Fields Pachanoi Frasers ? Hahn Hamiltons Huarazensis Hutchison 1597 Hutchison 6212 J2 Justin Juuls' Giant KK339 Kimnach Kimura’s Giant Landfill L.E.R. Mike ? MT03 Woody MT06 Lupita Music Teacher NoThink Olivia Omar Oscar OSP (Old School/Skool/ Pedro/Pachanoi) Ogunbodede PC Rob Rod Roy Saquarema Skip Strybring Torres & Torres TPM TPQC ? WA Pachanoi ? Warrah ? Yowie Zeus Peruvianus: 86 Anakie Argentinensis Bonny Bryan Cactus Garage ? Chavin (MT05) Christies Clyde Colossus Dawson's Peruvianus Fahim01 Endorfinder (Huancabamba) Gawler Gnosis Goliath Hahn Hamiltons HB1 - Herbalistics? (HB01*) ? Ivan J1 J3 John Kimba ? Len Los Gentiles MG Red Spine Norma Ohlone Old Teds Rosei #1 Rosei #2 Sausage Sharxx Blue SS01 TPC TPM TPM Variegated Trent Tripsis #2 Yoda Scopulicola: Scop A Scop B Cordobensis FR991 HELON Hulk SGC16 Super Pedro ? Worm Zed's Terscheckii: Big Blue ? Dawsons Long Spine Ruby Visions Validus: Fields Validus ? SA SS 1 - South Australian Short Spine 1 SA SS 2 - South Australian Short Spine 2 Other: Dr Funkenstein Judith Eventually I'll add link to trichocereus.net or other for each

Correction - that should have said "0.1%" - so 100g fresh leaves yields around 100mg* cathinone. Some researchers have gotten ~1% yields from dried material. Sorry about that! (*anywhere between 30-300mg seems pretty standard - though the lower yields tend to have much higher ratios of cathine+norephedrine, suggesting that their cathinone yields could've been higher with less destructive storage/extraction methods.) I also shoulda mentioned that the cathinone->cathine conversion isn't limited only to harvested leaves - the older leaves on the plant will also contain cathine (ref). Again the data is sketchy & results vary depending how they went about it, but lets say 50:50 with cathinone. So even though older leaves aren't as good to chew (not just because of the lower cathinone levels, but also because they're full of saponins, tannins, & tough fibres), they work just fine for making tea, as the cathine is heat-stable. The effects (less euphoric, more straight-up stimulant) may not be as nice as chewing high-cathinone fresh material, but it's one way to make use of old leaves. Kind of a middle-ground between tea (cathinone-destroying) & chewing quids (which is not really socially-accepted in Oz as a drug ROA) might be this method where they just chuck fresh leaves & cold water (1g/ml) into a high-speed blender, strain thru a cloth, and then freeze the "juice" until needed. They were only storing it for a short time, but it'd be interesting to see how the cathinone held up in frozen juice prepared this way. I'm guessing you'd actually be speeding up the degradation reactions (as all those enzymes would end up in your extract, plus extra oxygen+light, less protective cell walls...) if you left the juice sitting around at room/fridge temp, and probably even at freezer temps some breakdown would continue... but it might be ok for an immediate-use situation, especially if quid-chewing wasn't your thing? As a side note, "khatamines" (I guess coined by these researchers) is a great term & should be used more often.

i like the instrumentl production behind this, it's really good. do you do any just non-vocal tracks as well?

Hey mate ive paid for seeds and all im getting is Order ID 5c1f8d2cbb8729335da4ef3e263f6193PaidoutOrder pending payment i have proof that the money has gone to you too. Ive emailed you and tried on the cactusbae site but no reply.

Woohoo! Finally validated! I am keen to come on down for the meet up. Have only recently (re)started gardening ethnobotanicals again from scratch so I don’t have a whole lot to trade just yet but all in good time. Will hopefully have some seedlings and/or cuttings going Been a long time lurker and despite having a garden previously had absolutely zero involvement or participation in the community - happy to be changing that this time around

Yup, this /\/\/\/\/\ I'm not sure if there is some process involved in herbarium/ info submission which would give preference to the first institution to log the data- I did bump up against something of the kind a few years back but didn't pursue the specifics. But the grumpy taxonomist ( is there any other kind? ) at the other end gave me a stern reminder that we need to remember to submit first to Australian institutions if we want them to get recognition and funding. Which is totally fair enough IMO Alvalabs in Spain do a great job of the sequencing for a reasonable price, but I think there are now local services which offer identical services at similar prices.

Put a lock on your switchboard to stop any cunt turning your power off but make sure it has a window so they cant still read.

Tip #1. Don't let your areoles dry out at any time. A glass of water can help with this as you cut... you will find many areoles wanting to dry out otherwise. Tip # 2. Don't let your areoles dry out at any time. Parafilm increases the humidity of your graft union on a permanent basis so long as there are no holes or cracks. Tip # 3. Don't let your areoles dry out at any time. If you suspect that your parafilm grafting technique is not perfect, place your graft in a humidity chamber of some sort. Tip # 4. Make sure the union is secure without any air spaces. One can do this via string if one is gentle prior to the application of parafilm. Gently wrapping the ends of the graft with the string and working ones way towards the center so as to enable yourself to see the gap closing if there is one. Covering the string with a layer of waxy can then help seal in the moisture and keep your scion from drying out. You can also use thin strips of co-ban or parafilm for this if need be. One can often secure the scion by making a cross over your scion with two thin strips of parafilm prior to your application of your larger parafilm strip that should be stretched out to cover the entire surface of your graft. Tip # 5. You may wish to make a small wedge cut into your stock. You can then shape your scion to fit in this wedge. The smaller tissues of your scion are then protected by the stocks tissues. Please refer back to earlier steps however as steps 1-3 are particularly important with this method.

Trade reputation threads are important, especially for new traders. If 1ayahuasca3 doesn't have one going, maybe someone who has traded with them can start one. It's important to have a level of trust when a member on their first few posts is looking for sales.

Hey, this is the first release from one of my projects, came out today... Check it!!

Using Bigreds super shaman abilities I am using the force to redirect a asteroid from deep space .The Asteroid named Banjo is 40 light years away and travelling and great speed (will become one with it when gets closer in case i need to ditch it into the sun ) but will hit the ark with the power of a small atomic bomb and will leave a big crater .I know it not very shaman of me but sir Darwin contacted me and said I need to help with evolution a little bit .We might experience a nuclear type winter but may be for the best with current climate trends .This is the best idea i came up with any other ideas will be taken into consideration

I reckon if it keeps raining consistently for the next few weeks we're about a month off sub season in the mountains. But it's been hell dry since June 2017, so who knows what will happen. It could go either way. There's a known sub spot where someone spread a lot of azurescens LC, I wonder if the wild population swapped any genes... I didn't even bother heading into the forests last year as it had been so crazy dry. I feel a mission coming on in April!

L.E.R. is an old pachanoi that has been around for some time from the now defunct Legendary Ethnobotanical Resources. A specimen that flowered profusely at under 2 feet of height. Thought it might be worth mentioning for those interested in early flowering specimens. I'm sure there are others I've missed, but for now I'll leave it at this one.

I have been meaning to take some pics of this, and today seems like a great day to update this thread. Happy Birthday, Sir Jeans!! One of your babies is flowering for me on a couple of columns this year. I am SUPER stoked about this, as it has genetics that deserve to be spread. I have 2 large plants I don't cut, (and some smaller ones I'll cut if needed). I have wanted these 2 big ones to produce flowers, and the one in the pot has now done so! It's much scrappier looking and slower to grow than it's clone I have in the ground, which pumps out massive linear growth on all 8 of it's columns each year, but no signs of flowers on that one. And a comparison of the one flowering in the pot, and the much larger one in the ground. So it won't happen this year, but this is one step towards possibly being to make Jeans X Eileen and vice versa, at some stage. This year the crosses will be something else.

all the old Caapi threads disappeared with the previous crash.. these are my notes and i'd love someone to correct them there is no link to Caapi data on the species page, tho one does exist here Caapi Original leaves may drop off, new hardier leaves will grow Always keep soil moist Small – moderate amount of water every 2-3 days Mist lightly when there is dry atmosphere / winds Moderate light or filtered light, but protected area Half strength liquid seaweed fertiliser Minimum temperature for growth: 20 C Optimum temperature: 17 – 30 C Min – Max: 4 – 40 C Protect from frost Taking cuttings: (info from Torsten) only in summer. take a 2 node cutting (cuttings with at least two nodes will be woody enough..shorter is too young and green, and will only end up rotting) rub the bottom node off with the thumb. cut the leaves off the top node, but do not injure the axil bud. if the axil bud has already produced leaves, trim these back to virtually no surface area. (reducing transpiration) root well in coarse sharp sand for 3-8 weeks, then transplant - no hormone needed, but process will be accelerated by using IBA Clonex gel soft wood strength [This message has been edited by coin (edited 28 February 2002).]